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 Post subject: Fuel Line Mod discussion
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 7:55 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 10:02 am
Posts: 1817
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
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Do not do this mod if you are using your car for any type of real drag racing, most race tracks will fail you at tech inspection. Otherwise it is a good idea.

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 Post subject: Fuel Line
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 6:59 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2003 4:51 pm
Posts: 453
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Tell me, what's wrong with just using a heat wrap around the metal line to keep the heat down (beside looking ugly)?


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel Line
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 7:47 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 23773
Location: North America
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69a100 wrote:
Tell me, what wrong with just using a heat wrap around the metal line to keep the heat down? Beside looking ugly.


Doesn't work nearly as well. Also, yeah, looks ugly.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 10:16 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
Posts: 2445
Location: Lubbock, TX
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One of the best modifications I've done. The fuel line has survived almost 5 years of daily service and is still in good condition. So, one other thing you might want to do is replace all your soft fuel lines from the fuel tank to pump with the fuel injection hose. No more cracked rubber fuel lines.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 2:16 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 7:39 pm
Posts: 904
Car Model:
I did the same mod about 9 years ago, and it held up just fine until I parked it so the longevity is there. I went into a holley 390 so the adapters are different though.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:42 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
Posts: 2101
Location: Everett, WA
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For the record. I run my fuel line in the stock location. I have never had any problems starting my car, nor have I had any problems with the fuel boiling in the fuel line.

Of course, your mileage my vary...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:58 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2003 12:36 am
Posts: 90
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
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I did this mod the last time I worked on my truck, but for a different reason. I had crimped the metal line while trying to take it off the carb. I figured this was an easy enough solution. Thing is, the old line already went over the valve cover into a fuel filter, just behind the alternator. Was this perhaps factory position on truck and later models?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 6:59 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 8:20 pm
Posts: 1603
Location: Oxford, Georgia
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Dan's fuel line mod idea is great even when you have a rather non-traditional fuel system. I took his advice into consideration when routing lines for my multi-point EFI. The fuel line goes up straight across the valve cover to the inlet, and the return line is still a ways away from the manifold. My blog has an entry with a picture where you can see the over-the-valve-cover routing. My installation also uses AN braided hose to cover dragstrip safety concerns.

You can see the fuel rail and some of its plumbing here, too.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 7:52 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber
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Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2003 8:28 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Kansas City, MO
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Just a parts # update.

At Advance Auto Parts, the 5/16" IV-flare-to-5/16"-hose-barb brass fitting is available in the Help section :

Brand: Motormite "Brass-Tite!"
Part#: 43076
Desc: 5/16" IF to 5/16" Hose Fuel LIne Fitting

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:55 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 27, 2006 8:21 am
Posts: 1614
Location: Orlando, FL
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What problem does the drag strip's tech department have with this fuel line mod?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:53 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Feb 22, 2007 10:45 pm
Posts: 135
Location: Vancouver, WA
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Strips do allow more than 8" of rubber fuel line, total, tank to carb.....
In sportman class, the techs will let you get way with a little more, but not
much. Most will frown on any between the pump and carb
unless just joining steel tubes.

Metal lines or braided lines are what they like to see......

This has to do with FIRE and broken lines from objects hitting them.....
they also frown on the plastic fuel filters and glass ones too, for the
same......

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 2:35 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2005 8:33 pm
Posts: 745
Location: Rolla, MO
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I think the biggest advantage that it has going for it isn't the placement, but rather the material. Rubber insulates from the heat, where the steel will conduct the heat right in.

Theoretically, if one were to run a rubber line in the stock placement, it might yield better results, but I'll pass on having the fan blades that close to my rubber hose, thank you.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 2:53 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2006 7:44 pm
Posts: 788
Location: New England
Car Model:
I've been runing rubber hose over the steel line in hot spots. I split a piece of fuel hose and apply it to the steel line, then slip a piece of radiator hose over the whole deal for more insulation and to hold it all together.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 3:29 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 4:49 pm
Posts: 566
Car Model:
I have insulated the stock line with a fiberglass/silicone sleeve. It works ok but I am planning on the re-routing outlined by Dan with small changes for my setup. I suspect the shorter line helps aside from the change to rubber. Less area to exchange heat and less fuel vapor to deal with when it does get too hot. You could take it farther with some aluminized sleeving on the section in the "hot zone", over the valve cover to the carb. A return line to the tank with a small orifice at the carb inlet would really solve any issues with vapor lock. The carb boiling is another thing that can cause the same problems.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 7:31 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2008 8:04 am
Posts: 315
Location: Spring, Texas
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Looks like I'll do this, since when I was removing my carb for a rebuild I bent the fuel line connecting to the carb.

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