Well, I thought I was just finishing up some electrical issues and installing the last part of the puzzle, which was a Pertronix Ign. Module, when I discovered the rotor wasn't turning with the rest of the engine. So I pulled the distributor and found the drive gear teeth were stripped clean off.

I'm pretty sure I know the answer to my question, but I don't want to do any extras if I don't have to given it's summer and I gotta work out side. So, should I dump the oil pan to get the fragments out. And would there be issues else wear?

Thanks for feed back,
74

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This can indicate a serious issue.

The distributor gear runs on the same gear that the oil pump does.

Pull it down and inspect the cam gear and oil pump gear. A failure here can be catastrophic.

I would not run the engine until I made a full inspection.

Look up "oil pump drive gear failure" here on the forum.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Thanks for the heads up! I'll Check that out and get back with ya. It may take a little time due to certain issues outside my control.

Thanks again,
74

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Where ever you go there you are!

Actually I wouldn't over think this. The distributer gear is plastic, and are known to fail, with age. I wouldn't pull the oil pump, or get inside the engine at this point. Get a flashlight, or if available a inspection video camera, and look down the distributer hole. See what the gears look like. Chances are you just need the dist. gear. If the oil pump gear had failed, I would be more concerned about the cam shaft.
If the cam and oil pump gears look OK, I wouldn't worry about the plastic distributer gear pieces in the engine.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

I just got in from checking out the cam with a dental mirror and light. And I saw your post while signing in. I had the same thought.

The cam gear looks pretty good. The distributor gear has 3 teeth on one side all together that were sheared off (the way I worded it before sounded like all the teeth were messed up). I found 1 whole tooth in the bottom of the engine/dist. housing. The other teeth on the dist. gear look great, no wear!

I think I know how this happened. I was replacing the rotor while chasing down a no start/no spark/electrical issue (See Pertronix thread in electrical) and the rotor was stuck on the dist. shaft so, I used a 3" micro mini Pry bar to pop it off and I think that's when this happened. Cause it was on tight!

I think I'm going to change the oil to see if I can't get those other 2 pieces out.

74

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Where ever you go there you are!

Also, I was wondering since this is a newly rebuilt distributor (5-10,000 miles), I'm wondering if I need to re-drill the shaft holes for the new gear. I don't have a drill press to do exact work with (not sure I'd trust a hand drill).

What's the reasoning behind that anyhow? Can't you just check to see if the hole is still within tolerance?

Thanks,
74

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I always use a hand drill

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I never drill a new hole in the shaft. Always use the old hole, and drill new hole in gear.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Yeah, that's what I thought too!

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There's always Gorilla Glue! :

My question comes to mind because, the 2 distributors I've got here looking at me were rebuilt from the box store and the shafts were only drilled once. And Mopar didn't say why in the FSM. And I know.... I'm just one of those guys that's gotta know why. Plus I'm wondering if I can get away with going the easy route and just popping the new gear on using the old hole.

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Where ever you go there you are!

No I don’t drill a new hole in the shaft, just the new gear.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

For most people it is simpler/easier to drill a new hole thru the gear and shaft, then trying to line up the gear to the old hole in the shaft and redrilling the gear.

OOOOOhhh! Can you tell I've never even seen a new gear. So they don't come predrilled? Well that explains everything. I thought you had to try to use predrilled holes in the gear and drill the shaft straight enough to line up with the holes in the gear. I've never been that good with a hand drill.

I thought you guys were kiddin me, that's why I was laughing. Ok I'm going to have to see which approach I'll be better at. Right now Rick and Charrlie's method look like a winner for me.

Sorry,
74

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Where ever you go there you are!

You do not need to drill your distributor shaft—if its hole is detectably wallowed out, the rest of the distributor is probably junk, too, then you'd want to start with a better distributor. See here (short) and here (long).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan! That makes it really crystal clear. Now I just have to wait a little till the part gets here.
I can't thank you guys enough!

And you know I was only kiddin about the glue, right?

74

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Where ever you go there you are!