I have a 1965 Dart with a Slant 6. I am currently running a Offy intake with a 2bbl Holley. I am running the stock exhaust manifold with new 2 1/4 exhaust all the way out. I rebuilt the engine and the Car runs great! I have always had Headers in my mind for my car. I was thinking long tube headers. I am concerned about the room for the headers. My car is an automatic. I have the shifter cable from the steering column that runs across to the tranny. Also the tranny oil cooler lines that run on the side of the block to the radiator.

Will headers fit? If so what headers do you recommend? Thank you for your advice and input.

Very nice car!
Street driven I might hunt down the JR 6 into 1 Header.
There was a set on Facebook Market Place in Carthage MO, new, for sale.
The Dutra Duals are an option also, sold by AussieSpeed now.

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Hyper_pak

First off, which engine do you have, a 225 or a 170? As far as I know the only long tube headers for a 1966 and older "A" body are the Aussie speed headers. They supposedly fit both the 170 and 225 engine early "A" body. I have a set on a 66 valiant with a 170 (haven't tried them on a 225, yet). On the 170 they hang way too low. The JR 6 into 1 headers referred to, don't fit the 66 and older, just 67 up. The other slant six header is the Clifford "shorty". These fit the 1966 and older 225 with manual steering, they do not fit with power steering, and they don't fit the 170 at all. However you can modify the Cliford's to fit the 225 with PS and the 170 with manual steering (not PS) fairly easily. The problem is the front collector hits the steering box . What I do is cut a "fishmouth notch in the front three header tubes, then heat the tubes, and bend them up (to raise the collector) untill they clear the steering box. Then weld the cut closed.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Charrlie would know.

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Hyper_pak

Thank you Charlie for the great information. My engine is a 225 with manual steering. So per your post looks like Clifford shorties?

I see these 2 style headers on Clifford Performance. Thank you again for the help.

https://cliffordperformance.net/store/o ... gh-starter

https://cliffordperformance.net/store/o ... er-headers

You need the 55-0010
I will make a suggestion. As expensive as headers have gotten, I would check the fit, get the exhaust pipes made and checked for fit, then remove the headers, and have them ceramic coated inside and out. Otherwise they might not last very long, and who knows how long an "off the shelf" header will be available.

Actually if this is a street car only, I would consider the Dutra Duals. They are expensive, but will outlast the car.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

One plus is you have a manual steering box.

One negative with headers is you won't have any carburetor heat unless you use Dutra dual front pipe, and the back half of a stock exhaust manifold or build a water heated hot spot under carb on the bottom of the intake manifold and feed from the heater loop.

I run Clifford shortie headers, Clifford 4v shortie intake, and a home made water heated hot spot under the intake. It works well in cool humid Maine. Before adding the hot spot, carburetor ice would form during humid days below 50 degrees causing bad idle, poor drive-ability, and rotten fuel economy in the single digits.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Clifford shorty headers are the thing for you. Great discussion here. Get the coating, as Charlie suggests, if you can at all afford it.

Dutra Duals are another option, available from Gillwelding(.com). They will make slightly less power, but give more flexilibity with exh routing under the hood and will last forever whether you coat them or not. Also, it may take you months to get headers from Clifford, and I'm pretty sure Gill has the Dutras in stock.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Thank you guys for all of the input and information. I am leaning towards the Dutra's. I like the idea of more flexibility for running the pipe out of the engine compartment.

I currently have the Offy 4bbl intake that I set up for the Holley 2bbl I am running. Was thinking if I go to the Dutra's maybe I will go with an Aussie Speed intake. The I had the Offy machined for the 2bbl and it has the bottom heat area for the stock exhaust manifold. Looks like the Aussie speed intake has longer runners. But it also looks like the carb sits in the wrong direction for my linkage. What do you guys think?
https://aussiespeedusa.com/product/auss ... s0570-pic/

Here is a picture of my Offy Intake.

Those only fit '67 & up A-bodies, unless You want to cut them up & "fix" them to fit an early-A, I butchered the one from My K6('72 Swinger) to put it in My '64 GT. I have a new one besides that one, basically after taking it in & out about 12× I got it in there, but it is a heated-flattened-hammer welded pup...really now a witness-pattern template for the mods needed.

Unless you just like the looks of the Aussiespeed, I really think you'll get just as much power with the Offy as an Aussiespeed, assuming your engine was rebuilt to stock specs. The exhaust with Dutras should gain you some power, and you should try playing with jets a little after the exhaust/dutra work. What carb are you running? Where are you located?

If you're looking for substantially more power, then head modifications would be next on my list.

Slant on,
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Thanks Lou for your response. I am running a 350cfm Holley Street Avenger 2 barrel. I live in CA Temecula. It never really gets to cold and we do not get a lot of rain here either.

The Carb came with 63's for jets. I swapped them for 65's. I actually think I need to go up again.

Again, my car runs great. What started me looking at all of this is just looking for my next power grab. My engine is rebuilt to stock with just a mild cam from Oregon Cam. Cam #819. I know that the head can be worked for more power.

Appreciate the input and direction.