As some of you guys know I wanted to do make my 1964 Dodge Dart for autocross. But I changed my mind and want to make it for drag racing. Just wondering how I could make my 1964 Dodge Dart for drag racing.

Well it depends on how fa$t you intend to go an what you are willing to comprimise and modify to get there.

There are some good build threads on the subject.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=35632

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=44333

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36132


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Build a good Engine
Install a low set of gears/Posi unit
Remove weight
Push throttle to the floor
You are now drag racing!

How fast do you want to go?

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

You can drag race anything. And I do mean anything, as long as it is safe.

Start by making sure everything is working right with the car. I think you said before that it would still be street driven.

Take it to the track and make a bunch of passes to see where you are. If the track has a bracket class that your car fits into, run in that class for awhile to get your technique down so you can run consistently. You and your slow, stock Dart may wind up with several class wins and trophies against much faster and more expensive race cars.

I have a stack of Friday Night Trophy Plaques from Firebird Raceway in Phoenix, AZ that were all won with my bone stock ‘72 Dart running high 19 second passes against much, much faster and way more expensive cars.

As you get used to the car and have a better idea of which way you want to go (full race or street/race) you can be more focused in following any of the tried and true recipes mentioned above.

The key thing is to get out there and enjoy it now and not miss out on years of fun because it isn’t exactly what you want it to be.

Lighter is faster, good brakes and steering, etc, etc...

Keep us updated and post pics of you having fun at the track NOW.

I’m putting the soap box back in the closet now.

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Soap Box Aside, Yes Rob makes some good points, that I failed to mention.

Get your car safe, setup for street driving, Good Brakes, Reliable ignition and fuel systems, Coolant overflow etc. and Get yourself a helmet and your are set.

You can have a lot of fun with this method too.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I want to make the car for street/race.
Things planned to do for next summer:
- swap in a 8 3/4 rear end
- install mini tub in order to have bigger tires.
- front disc brakes
- install a torqstorm supercharger
- Interior is already gutted so I don't have to worry about that.

With the proper Wheel Offset / Backspace you can Fit 245's with no Tubbing... But if you have the supercharger you might need it.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

My car has 235 drag radials, clamped stock leaf springs and hooks up pretty well. I am sure Greg is right about 245s fitting but I don't have the right offset wheels...lol.

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“Buy the ticket, take the ride.”
― Hunter S. Thompson

I had 235's on stock 14 x5.5 small bolt steelies on my 69 dart.. fit no problem. I i forget what size slicks i had on that car but they were wider....On wider aluminum wheels that I had sent to the machine shop to add backspace.

The Grüne Hölle Dart has 245's on 8" wide wheels.. I still have about 3/4" clearance to the inner fender/ wheelhouse. There are some tricks to making that work.
If you move the leafs in or get a different suspension that does not have leaf springs you also can enjoy some other options.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

For the engine what should I do to it. Like what cam, rocker arms, how much to shave from the head, and etc.

Post in the engine forum for that.

There is was a build matrix as well ..

Check the faq in the engine forum.

Biggest bang for your buck is to $pend money on the head and valves.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I had a 28X9 slick under my '66 on an 8" Weld wheel. I had the lip of the wheel opening trimmed as far as I could and had room. I moved the springs in 3", but without a minitub it really won't gain you much.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I have a '65 Dart so basically all the same principles apply. As Rick mentioned, deep converter, low gears. If you are going for naturally aspirated, money spent on the cylinder head will be biggest gain hands down. Other than that, make it light as you can. I've spent countless hours with a hole saw making sure the swiss cheese effect is bordering on insanity levels. Be careful where you remove weight from because you can lose rigidity in certain areas. Greg's Ruster Valiant a good thread to read up on. There are plenty good people to help with where you wanna go. If you want it really fast on the engine, it won't be cheap.

Also as mentioned when I stated a deep converter, call up one of the places to build you a converter for you're specific 6 cylinder combination. An off the shelf converter for a v8 won't get you enough stall behind a 6. This is very important. PTC or Edge are good options.

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Michael Glass. Mopar stuff and some rusty Mopar stuff!
1965 Dodge Dart with 66 Valiant front clip. Other stuff...

Yes, I need to look into an edge converter try try on Ruster someday.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

+1 for Edge!

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“Buy the ticket, take the ride.”
― Hunter S. Thompson