So I know I am a dinosaur, in fact I had a Lancersaurus as a pet for many years.
However, that being said, I do not control my timing through any computer or other device.
Years ago I had my Mallory Dual Life worked by a guy in Newport News.
Freddy Pennington at Preston Carburation.
I have lost that data, but Bill Steudeman is helping me out with a machine, so I can document it.
I also have an electronic dist. I am playing with and figuring out the mechanical advance.
Neither dist. have vacuum advance.

Long story.
Just wondering what you racers are set up for?
For example, if I have 4 degrees initial, and 28 mechanical that would be right where the old DC folks said, 32 total.
But if I run 10 initial, like I have been, I only need 22 mechanical.
I might end up with 2 dist. with different curves to find the sweet spot.

Anyone one to spill their speed secrets?

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Hyper_pak

I have an electronic distributor that I had the slots half welded shut 20 years ago. I set total timing at 32 and initial is what it is.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I think for the intended use of the car you will not need the advance in vacuum or mechanical form.

You car most likely going to run the engine over 2500 for anything useful so It will be "All in" even if you had a curve. If you added the Vacuum advance to it it would moist likely not trigger where you are running the car due to WOT Passes.

Fixed / Final / all in timing will work fine in my opinion.. There might be some fracttional HP gains to be found with a curve but I have no way on knowing yes or no on that without any Chassis or engine Dyno Data.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Speed secrets?? People a lot smarter than I tell me 28-30 degrees is about best for our engine. But there are a lot of variables I'm sure.32 or 34 may work best in your setup. Start at 28 and go up 2 degrees at a time as long as it goes faster. Find your best ET and that's your speed secret.

I don't see why I would lock out a mechanical advance feature even for a drag car. Having 28-32 degrees locked in at start up and shut down doesn't seem desirable to me. I run 12 degrees initial timing and run a limiter plate in the distributor to hold mechanical advance to 16, for a total of 28 degrees. I also have the vacuum advance unhooked, since it is out of the loop anyway at wide open throttle.

Good luck Stan.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

My engine likes quite a bit of initial advance. It has nitrous, so need to limit max advance. If I try to run less than 12* initial, it doesn't like to idle, but with the nitrous shot, I need to limit to about 20-22* max. So I am running a lean burn distributer with no advance, and set the timing to 18-20* fixed. I might be able to pick up a little power by putting a little curve in the dist, but at this point I don't think it is worth the effort. I don't get the car out enough for testing.
If using mechanical advance, I would set max by the way the car runs (per Rick Covalt). Then find what the engine likes at idle speed, and modify the advance for those numbers. I wouldn't worry about having Vac advance unless you are driving on the street.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

I usually weld up the slots partially and use lighter springs to get about 15-18 initial advance (with a big cam NA engine), and 28-30 total in by about 2500. All my cars are street strip and I can idle them all down to 1000 or less. I played around with 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 and found 28-30 was at or near max power and a bit safer than with more total advance. Any less than about 15 deg initial will not idle well with a big cam. I always run a vac advance since it is "off" at mid-full throttle anyway and you will get much better burn at part throttle and not fill up your oilpan with fuel. Usually I run 9.5 or 11 deg cans. Bigslant6fan's spring kit works very well and is predictable, if you can get ahold of the kit. I always map my curve (at least coarsely) running on the engine with an old Craftsman dialback timing light.

My 2 cents,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

16 degrees base, hops out at 1400, 32 degrees all in at 2500 which is Stall. Mechanical only. No provision for vacuum advance on the Unilite dizzy I run.

The 16 base makes it easier to start. Fixed would be fine, but it'd beat on the starter.

If I drive it on the street on that timing, it gets 20 mpg spinning 4.10's, which is better than when it was a 1bbl street car turning 2.76 road gears. (16) Trouble is, with all the block fill, it can't run in more than 70 degree heat for any distance, and it's 60 mph tops, not 70+ down the freeway.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Thanks CEEJ.
I just got a filled block, not sure what I think about that.

Now I have my electronic dist with 24 degree mechanical advance.
I have used 5 and 8 for initial, but inconsistent performance has no real answers yet.

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Hyper_pak

Block fill is meant to keep the block stable at high rpm. If your not spinning above 5000 rpm, then it serves no purpose.

Initially, I requested, from the machinist, a stroke of 4.440"
I thought I was going to turn in the 6K range. My machinist at the time made a bit of an error. He stroked the crank at 4.475"
I have a new machinist that isn't a total wanker.

I've had the stroker to 5500, and could hear the engine getting "gumpy." I don't need block fill for 5K. If you aren't going to swing it above 5 or try to stretch to 7k, don't block fill.

I may reuse this block for my titanium long rod build. I'll pull one of my clean BH blocks for the rotating assembly I have and load it with the long stroke bits, then slap it in a pickup.

It might be stellar in a wagon too. Choices, choices. If we're allowed to burn dinosaurs when I have time to mess with it.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I cracked 2 cylinders in a ruster engine with 3.504" bore and no block fill.
This one has block fill 3/4 of the way up and gets spun over 6200 usually.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I am going to put the one I have on the scale.
I thought peanut heads were heavy.

This would really throw my weight bias off.
It's not perfect now.

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Hyper_pak