Greetings y'all. New to the world of The Leaning Tower of Power world, and have a couple of questions. Just purchased a '63 Valiant & need a little more amperage for upgraded lights, electric fan, etc. Thinking about using a alternator from a 73-75 (60 amp unit) Have upgraded the charge output wire, wondering about the voltage regulator. Standard shows 2, a VR101 for 36–45-amp unit, or a VR106 for the 60-amp unit. Wondering if there is a significant difference between the two? Electrical is not new to me, but some of the Mopar layout has me scratching my head...

TIA,
Fitz

Welcome!
We have an electrical guru who roams around here.
@slantsixdan
All of your questions will soon be answered.

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Hyper_pak

Just because an alternator has a rating of "x* amps doesn't mean it will be cranking out that much power all the time
No matter if the alternator is rated for 30 amps or 120 amps if the system demands are for 27 amps that's all either will put out at that moment.

Read this and this. Then, if you will be using a '70 or later alternator (w/two field terminals), go ahead and use the regulator meant to go along with it. That's this one (fancy; seller has needed connector and can coach you on wiring this into your '63 car if the diagram I'm posting here isn't enough) or this one (less expensive, with connector).

Careful about your lights; there's a mountain of garbage on the market fraudulently hyped as "upgrades".

Also, careful about your alternator selection; "remanufactured" ones are junk. Old Car Parts Northwest probably still has some new old stock Chrysler units on the shelf.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan,
I've upgraded the charge wire, 8ga thru a 60a midi fuse, as you specified in an earlier post, now ready to install a 60a alternator. Assuming 14ga wire will be sufficient for the regulator connections? Also planning on upgrading the battery cables to 2ga. The ground currently goes to a bolt on the water pump. Thinking of moving it to one of the bellhousing bolts near the starter & adding ground straps from the block to the body & a lead from the ground side to the core support. Thooughts?

As far as the headlight relays, I've used Painless in the past with good results

Thanks for the advice..

Actually I recommend dual 10ga wires, each with a fuse at both ends. One of the links I provided in my earlier reply in this post explains why.

16 is plenty.

No advantage

Should already be present (was there when the car was built). If not, add.

Ground leads from alternator housing to voltage regulator base to battery negative should be higher on the list.

Many others have had opposite experience with "Painless". There's also a lot of poor-quality so-called "upgrade" lamps and lights to avoid.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

[/quote] Ground leads from alternator housing to voltage regulator base to battery negative should be higher on the list. [/quote]

One continuous wire, Alternator housing, to regulator base, to the negative post?

Or separate wires from point to point to point. Either way is fine.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.