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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 1:35 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
rings on the plugs

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 10:34 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Fri Jul 01, 2005 4:37 pm
Posts: 84
Location: Sacto. Cal
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 11:52 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Posts: 1742
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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 Post subject: Or....
PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 12:50 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
If you don't want to change the connectors and wiring and want it to look the same.....

1. Remove ballast
2. Solder wire from one terminal to other terminal on inside (bypassing resistor)
3. Reinstall ballast

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 1:16 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Fri Jul 01, 2005 4:37 pm
Posts: 84
Location: Sacto. Cal
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Thanks guys.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 8:07 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Fri May 18, 2007 8:37 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Newcastle, WA (just East of Seattle)
Car Model:
Jopapa, If you are still having this problem get rid of the stock coil and get a MSD 2 or a Accel Super Coil. I had the same problem after I did this swap about 4 years ago. After running for a while the car started to cut out and die at idle or low rpm the stock coil gets too hot and starts to burn out. I swapped to a MSD Blaster2 from Shucks and it never happened again.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 5:17 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 2:50 pm
Posts: 1742
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Car Model:
360scamp wrote:
Jopapa, If you are still having this problem get rid of the stock coil and get a MSD 2 or a Accel Super Coil. I had the same problem after I did this swap about 4 years ago. After running for a while the car started to cut out and die at idle or low rpm the stock coil gets too hot and starts to burn out. I swapped to a MSD Blaster2 from Shucks and it never happened again.


I already have a brand new Blaster 2 to install when I do the HEI conversion. I'll be getting everything pieced together before doing the conversion (including those sexy Magnecor wires) before doing it, so it coule be a couple weeks out yet. I can't wait to get it swapped over though.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG



Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 4:47 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Sat May 05, 2007 4:23 pm
Posts: 19
Location: Omaha,Ne
Car Model:
I did this install on Monday 5/21. Thanks for the tips. Runs great!
Nino




66' Val


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 5:23 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Fri Jul 01, 2005 4:37 pm
Posts: 84
Location: Sacto. Cal
Car Model:
I think I must be an idiot. Or just smart challenged. I am becoming very intimate with the steps in doing this conversion. I have the wires from the hei ecu hooked to the coil. I am assuming but am not sure: Do I end up with 2 wires on each pole of the coil? The wires that were on the old coil and the wires from the hei ecu?
As far as the dist. wires I have just unplugged the connector from the dist. and used wire connectors to tie in to that from my hei ecu.
I have unplugged the old ecu.
Lastly, I have unplugged the ballast resitor and jumpered the connectors across from left to right.
I have made sure I that the hei ecu has a very solid ground.
I get cranking but no indication of starting.
Do I need to regap the plugs do I need to put in my 8mm wires. I am just at the end of my brain cells.
Any help?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2007 7:06 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 9084
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
I just did this swap on my 79 volare driver today, 5-26-07.

Yes you will end up with 2 or more wires on each pole of the coil.

The + Side Will be wired to the usual Factory + Wire and the "B" Connection on your HEI Module. The - Pole will connect to the Negative facotry Connection and also The "C" connection on your GM Module.

I actually have a Tach lead on my coil too, so I have even more wires at these posts. If you have trouble starting or car runds bad Flip the Wires on the Side of the module that leads to the Distrubitor.


My wires were right the first time, however I flipped them to see what would happen, and it felt like the engine was firing on 2 cylinders.


Trial and error here.





Greg

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2007 8:31 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 2:15 pm
Posts: 104
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Car Model:
Did this swap today, worked perfectly! My car now idles better, runs better, uses less fuel, and is more powerful. Thanks a bunch Dan!
-Allen

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1962 Valiant V-200
170 C.I. Super Six, HEI, Dutra Duals


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2007 5:05 am 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 8:20 pm
Posts: 1603
Location: Oxford, Georgia
Car Model:
Actually, mine did have the two connections on the positive terminal, but only one on the negative terminal (well, one plus a tach output).

I've recently rewired it so the HEI module triggers an MSD box. If you have a standard advance, you could hook the MSD up directly to the pick-up coil leads, but I'm using a HEI module so my Megasquirt V2.2 can control timing.

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 Post subject: hei
PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 5:47 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Apr 21, 2007 5:29 pm
Posts: 37
Location: SACRAMENTO, CA
Car Model:
i finished my ignition swap. first of all when i pulled the old coil out i wanted to curse at the guy that put it on. they bent the mount and when it was tightened dented the hell out of the coil causing the oil to leak out of it.

i think that by itself could be why my car idled soooo bad. and poor mileage.
but the carb is next.
now the idle is much better but still pretty rough. gonna go outside and gap the plugs to 40. is it worth gapping to 45?

what is the best fuel economy setting for timing. i've read about a few degrees advanced but was wondering if that was a gain in power or mpg or both.

thanks dan for this hei thread.

dario

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 7:25 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 2:15 pm
Posts: 104
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Car Model:
Quote:
is it worth gapping to 45?


Prollay.

Quote:
what is the best fuel economy setting for timing.


Start at about 8-10* advance. Then play around with it.

_________________
1962 Valiant V-200

170 C.I. Super Six, HEI, Dutra Duals


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 3:42 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 8:43 pm
Posts: 1153
Car Model: 1967 Dodge Dart GT
hey guys, i went 'shopping' today at my local parts yard for an hei module, found multiple 7 pin ones and one 5 pin, no four pins, in the linked site the guy shows the two top wires on the right side going to the distributor, is that accurate? im running a stock 74 motor with a 2bbl, can i use the 5 pin for anything? either way i got the pair and the factory plug that goes the the distributor for a more stock look for free, i guess maybe the counter guy admired our persistence, it was thundering and lightening too much for them to let us out in the yard when we got there, then it was raining on and off, forcing us into one of the donors when it got real bad! stashed the extra 7 pins we found in the center console of a corsica that didnt look like it had anything off of it yet, thanks!


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