Just bought a B&M 112 Blower for my engine in my 77 Volare Coupe. Okay, experts, how do I set up my engine and drive train to optimize this for the street and occasional bracket racing? Price range is budget as much as possible. I have hooker Super Comp headers and a Carter 500 Competition AFB to top it with. Can I still use a rumpity cam to get "the sound"? I am in the middle of setting up my 3.55 8.25 diff. so that is what I am running for gears.

if anyone here has set this blower up on their motor, any part numbers for pulleys, idlers, jackshaft if necessary, etc, would be awesome. Will be gone until Sunday night, so let the responses stack up.

Really? Nothing? That's kinda cool I suppose because it means that this is truly a unique install. I will have to figure out the details myself I guess.

I think turbos are going to be the most popular type of forced induction setup for most any inline engine, simply because a Roots type blower doesn't fit current intake manifolds and/or engine compartments very easily. Plus, when you say "blower" and "budget" in the same sentence, it usually doesn't create a vision of something that is going to be successful in the end.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

Fair enough, I suppose. But I think an Oregon cam grind for a blown engine costs about the same as one for a normally aspirated engine. I could be wrong. I did find a thread or two where guys have put superchargers on regular motors that do not have $500 pistons in them. So that was helpful. One of them bragged that he did the whole thing for around $400, including the blower. From what I have seen, slants do not use "blower manifolds", but adapters to fit them to 4bbl manifolds, which mine came with.

But you are correct, I cannot afford to shell out $6,000 to Aussie Speed for a 4-71 blower setup, $500 for pistons, $400 for rods, $700 for headwork, $450 for an Isky cam kit and another $300 for custom made pulleys.
That is why I am asking for hints here rather than calling BDS, Dyer or Aussie Speed.

But no biggie, I like a challenge and there are other places to get info on stuff like this. I figured a category on a slant six forum called "Boost and Nitrous" might include info on roots blower installs as well as turbos from guys who have run them. I will catalogue the experience and post it here for others to learn from and save them money.

Okay, so rather than a thread asking for advice, I will use this thread to tell the story.

I am starting with a B&M 112 blower that comes with a couple of extra 6 rib pulleys and a crank pulley. I will be porting the head myself, and may or may not even go for the larger valves right away. I believe that lower compression is the way to go with these, so I do not plan on doing the whole ".100 deck and mill". That will save money right there. I believe I can run cast pistons if the boost is not too high, but will need to shop around for the best head gasket I can find. I will try to learn the math in terms of pulley sizes to keep the boost down to around a conservative 6-8 lbs to start. I will also check out some pics of the other blower threads on the forum to copy the support brackets and idler pulley brackets that I will fabricate.

That should be a decent start to the project.

I have over 5000+ miles on my boosted six, I run 10lbs , and the bottom end is 100% stock, so I feel the bower option is not only lower cost but easier than the turbo option. running the 112 sized blower should be just about right.

Thanks, Matt. I think I saw your thread about the one you have, which is what inspired me to do this. I also believe this is more simple and clean than putting in a turbo and all the trimmings ( tubes, intercooler, tying it into the exhaust, etc.) Except for the height, it takes up less room under the hood than a turbo setup.

I pulled two of these for 45ea..sold one for 125...( ive got a handfull of eatons)45$ cv carbs..and some filler rod and argon and fab time...not done yet but you get the idea..the lexan template its sitting on will be 1/2" t6 alumn of course..im chooseing to blow thru carbs..as the factory bypass will serve double duty as a bov and wastegate sort of speak..i limit bypass closure to set boost wherever i want reguardless of pully arrangement. Find a fabricator and tread your own path.

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