Thanks, Greg. That works now.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

This morning I put the carrier in the freezer and the ring gear in the oven to get the parts together...
New center section coming along.



Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

12/30/18:

Did a bit of prep on some grimy junkyard spindles off of an '80 volare.

Hit them with die grinder then sand blast, then metal prep for POR15.


Also got a bunch of front end parts, handling parts, and stuff to convert to big bolt pattern / disc brakes.

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Looks like some good progress on both ends of that Dart.

_________________
“Buy the ticket, take the ride.”
― Hunter S. Thompson

Excellent, Greg!

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Got some Christmas gifts for Grüne Hölle...
- Pro forged inner and outer tie rod ends.. 11/16.
- Tie rod sleeves 11/16"
- 16:1 manual box
- PST fat 1.03" torsion bars
- new lower control arm bushings


I plan to try to get the rear susp. and front susp. in sometime soon. I also have other parts that I have been compiling for this project such as rear suspension, upper control arms, volare master cylinder, adjustable prop valve, I think I have strut rods as well.

Things to still get:
- Lower ball joints (forgot to order them with the rest of the front parts)
- FFI front sway bar
- FFI idler arm retrofit kit
- Pitman arm (who makes a good reputable one for 64 dart?)
- USCT level 2 stiffening kit.

Will be putting on mopar slider calipers with small rotors and big bolt rear drums for now.. they are leftovers from when Ruster got wilwoods.

I will be $aving $ome more ca$h for wilwoods or dr diff or something else down the road.

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Sounds like a great plan. I think Jason is/was using EBC Yellowstuff pads on the Lemons Valiant and those work pretty well.

I saw your post on Mopax, BTW. I would not bother welding the tie rods. Already overkill for this size/wt car.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Cool Lou, Thanks for the Pad / Weld Recommendation.

I just wanted to see if anyone else might be doing something like that - I know solid's are avail. but no need to spend there if I can spend elsewhere.


Here are the front uprights after the glamour treatment:



Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Ditto on the EBC Yellows for my Lemons Dart. They're rough on rotors and don't last as long as more expensive pads, but they work well from cold to hot and bed in super easy. No sense going fancier than that if this front disc setup is temporary.

The car looks nice; great job on the metal work. Good to see another A-body getting set up to take corners!

_________________
Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Hey Greg, its your nickel, but I would save the premium priced POR15 for thin
metal, like floor pans, rocker panels, frame rails,,, thick parts like steering kuckels,
torsion bars, ain't going to rust through in our life time. Some spray on Krylon would
do just fine. If you want to go durable, use either Tractor Supply Implement Black or John Deere
Blitz Black on the suspension parts.
Also with suspension parts, in the areas where there are through bolts and part to part or bolt head or nut to part contact,
you don't want paint, the paint will break down under load and you may end up with a loose joint.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produ ... lack-1-gal

http://blitzblack.com/

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Might have to try that stuff John..

But I like POR as it works. if I blast and paint the normal way it rusts no matter what.

Stuff I painted on Ruster has rusted after sitting out for a bit.

I dont really want that with this car.

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I totally agree, but it aint cheap.

The Tractor Supply chassis paint with hardner added was used on the frame and suspension components
on the 83 D150,, 30,000 miles and 6 years later it is holding up fine, has a nice almost semi gloss factory look finish.

I used the JD Blitz black in a spray bomb on the 68 Barracuda suspension parts,
two years later (most of that has been sitting-in-the-garage-time) and all is fine

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Gee, this really makes me want to use POR now. Never tried it. Thanks for the comments, guys.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Coated drums for my jeep xj with por 15. Its a salt machine so i wanted to see how they held up.

Drums have no rust on them at all.

Be sure to get the metal prep and follow label instructions to the letter.

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Thanks again!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988