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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2021 5:19 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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Badvert65 wrote:
Which Romac balancer do you have? Can you weigh it for me?
-Mattman



Romac is 5.5# stock is 4.4#

Romac Performance Series:
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Stock:
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I will gladly loose a pound there to be safe and not have balancers and dampeners fly apart.

Greg

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 Post subject: 4/16/21
PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2021 4:36 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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4/16/21

I got the Cam Locked in at Intake ℄101°... First Time I installed it at 0° on the multiple Keyway Crank Sprocket that came with the Rollmaster Timing Set, It measured out at ℄98° so I set it to the -2° on the crank sprocket (which must be 4° camshaft Degrees).. anyway it's all worked out. Recommended intake ℄ was 100°-102° so it's just about right.

Also got lots of little things completed and the Cam stop Built, using an old Rocker adjustment screw as well as some 3/8"-24 Fine nuts from the hardware bin.
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Time to Finish the Tins, Install the Rear Main Seal, Lots of Gasketing, Oil, Water Pump, Some revisiting on the oil Pan for dipstick and Other small issues , then seal it up move on to setting the Rockers up, Intake, Carb, Fuel Line, Headers etc. I might throw an extension on the vent tube on the fuel pump to keep the area behind the fuel pump less oily too. It will probably throw oil out everywhere if I do not do that with the corners that I am anticipating.

I will also be putting a mock up head back on that mock up block to hang the headers and build an exhaust before I drop the actual engine in the car. - Fire up the Argon Bottle for Some Stainless Mig and Tig work...

Greg

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 Post subject: 4/19/21
PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2021 8:51 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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4/19/21

I finally Finished up the Oil Pan - Added Some More Baffles at the Front and Back to Separate the Sump from the Area Just under the spinning crank. I also added a windage Screen.. It's Held in with 4 Button head screws that I loctited in place. Also Added a provision for the Dipstick (thanks MadScientistMatt)

I put the mock up block back in and Hung an old Head on the block along with the bell housing, Z, Bar, Clutch Fork and Headers. Began mocking up the exhaust. Waiting for my 2nd Argon regulator to arrive so I can weld it correctly with some back purge argon inside the tube.

The Pan is finally done - whatta beast it was to make that part..
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It actually looks somewhat normal with the fresh paint on there.
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Windage Screen Should help somewhat.
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"glued" down the Crank Scraper and the Oil Pan spacer on the other side.
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Mock up Block back in to begin the Exhaust Primary Tube mockups... The Front tubes will take a bit of time.
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Slice and dice.
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Backpurging is recommended for a reason..so is using a TIG machine that has a foot pedal and is not a lift start
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Greg

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Last edited by Greg Ondayko on Tue Apr 20, 2021 4:22 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2021 4:21 am 
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Drool...

Lou

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 Post subject: 4/21/21
PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2021 7:41 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
4/21/21

Waiting on some parts before I can button up the oil pan and Timing Cover..

In the Meantime The Rocker shaft shim packs came in..
It's nice that the old MoPar Engineers were too lazy to make the stock rocker shaft any different from the B-RB/ A/LA Hemi Blocks The Shaft Diameters are all the same. (thanks Willem Weertman and Tom Hoover)
So I was futzing with setting the side play on the rockers - Almost done - Some are too tight when the shaft was torqued down.. Need to remove 0.015" spacers on a few pairs.

Still waiting on adjuster screws from Smith Brothers too.

This engine is using some of the recycled top end parts from Ruster - Push Rods - and 1.5 (I think ) Roller Rockers that came from the Mike Jeffery Cache of slant 6 speed parts.

I still have yet to see if all of this fits under a stock Valve cover without hitting stuff.. It's not a High Lift cam so hopefully I don't have the rocker screws hitting baffles and other parts in the rocker cover.
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Greg

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 Post subject: 4/26/21
PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2021 8:22 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
4/26/21

Happy Hemi Day.. I don't have one of those so I am celebrating by getting some stuff done on Grüne Hölle.


I got the ARP Cam bolt Installed..it's dimpled in the middle for use with the Ball End Rocker screw.
Got the Timing Cover bolted and sealed, Got the Oil Pan installed. Got the head installed,torqued and set the Cold Lash on the Lifters in prep for the first start.

My Backpurging Equipment arrived... Now I can attempt make better / nicer / more structurally sound welds in the Stainless tubing for the exhaust. I also got to doing some tube fitting as well.


Greg

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 Post subject: 4/27/21
PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2021 6:15 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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4/27/21

Getting some of the Exhaust Routing Figured out:
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Greg

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2021 9:06 am 
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Greg where did you get the blocks for the rocker shaft? Did you mill off the existing stands? Looks like a nice set up. Thanks for the info. Rick

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2021 1:11 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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Hi Rick.. this one does not have blocks.

The top retainers came with a setup I bought from Howard Davis.. they are 180°. They are more skookum than the stock stamped steel rocker shaft hold downs.
The stands are not milled- they are stock. The top retainers are the same as any la/ b/rb/ hemi.

Summit / jegs/ harland sharp/ pwr engine parts may have them.. I will see if I can find 'em for ya.


The studs are Arp.. standard 3/8 automotive studs with hardened washers under the nuts.
Greg

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2021 1:16 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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Something like this Rick:

https://store.prw-usa.com/9544005-hold- ... plete-kit/

Verify the sizes before you order.

On the head I have the rear bolt is smaller so I am using a stock Bolt in that location.

Greg

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 Post subject: 4/28/21
PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2021 7:10 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
4/28/21

I was able to get some more exhaust work done.

Got my 2 down Pipes (for lack of a better term) (the pipe from the header flange to the Y collector before the muffler) Completely Mocked up and one fully welded.

My next task will be to fully weld the other down pipe and then work back from the wye collector and build the intermediate pipe and tail pipe.

Fitting Pipes - Blue Masking tape is helpful when working with non magnetic stainless for fit and making proper witness / alignment / clocking marks.
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Lots of Funky Bends and angles here. Kinda Felt Like I was building a header.
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Breaking out the Hot Glue Gun..
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Not Perfect, but Getting better' Cept for where I burned holes and had to use a bunch of filler to fix it. Backpurging = easier TIG Beads on stainless.. YAY!
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One done.. one to finish weld.
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Greg

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2021 4:48 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Brightwood, VA
Car Model: 1965 Plymouth Belvedere I
Looks terrific. You make it look so easy.

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Strive for Excellence, not Perfection.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2021 6:48 am 
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Very nice, Greg. Why did you decide to go with stainless? Your downpipes look a bit different than mine. Always great to see another route taken...

Lou

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2021 7:27 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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Thanks guys,

@ Lou I duunno _ I went with stainless cause it's a bit more of a challenge to fab up and I sort of have a personal creed for my exhaust systems to now be made of a material that will not instantly rot through on the Salty dog winters.. Not that this car will see salt, It also looks a bit nicer for a while. It's Not lighter or cheaper or anything. Maybe I am just stubbornly stupid.?!?!?

I also Had an Aluminized Tail Pipe that rotted from the inside out on the '69 Dart; that car never saw hardly any rain or any salt at all. Lastly, I participate in the continuous improvement program on my fab and tig welding; what better way to practice tig than actually build something functional and useful with the technique.

Greg

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2021 7:29 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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@ Lou Yes of course the routing has to be different as you have deleted the Z bar and the The Clutch adjustment rod/ Clutch fork.

I wanted to give myself room to adjust the clutch as well.


Greg

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