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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2021 5:54 am 
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Patience, grasshoppah. When we get nuts with wt reduction we can make a 'glass hood from the mold I got from Seymour and use those type of hinges. We are wayyy too early for that, tho.

Lou

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2021 11:00 am 
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Haven't forgot the hinge patterns. I just can't find my paper copy! I will pull a front one off and trace it for you guys. May even drill some holes in them so they meet with Seymour and Greg's approval! :D :D Haven't had time to mount the rear trunk yet. But when I do I'll make copies of those too.

I did go to the track 2 weeks ago and figured we had some good air I may actually see some more 12 second runs. But as soon as I pulled into the staging lanes I could feel a caliper dragging. Ran some 13.30's and 13.20's, but I figured it did not help having the front brake dragging going down the track. :( So I came home and went to order calipers and found that they are all wanting cores on these now. $30-60 core plus the hassle! So I just went to Dr Diff and got 2 new ones, pads and the Hardware for $115 and no cores. Ordered the braided stainless hoses while I was ordering. But I didn't realize just how heavy the calipers were! Just about 25# with the pads and hardware! May need to swap them out for some Wilwood aluminum ones ! :D

By the way there was a article on AllPar about using the aluminum Wilwood calipers on the stock rotors/hubs. It involved a special adapter that Andy F. made to bolt them on. However I can't find where to buy them. The links in the article did not work for me. If anyone knows where to get them I'd appreciate a heads up. :D

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2021 11:24 am 
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You probably have to contact andy directly for those I bet.

Greg

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2021 11:52 am 
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Mancini is a dealer for Andy.

If the brackets didn't sell good, he probably discontinued them.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2021 1:00 pm 
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Andy might make you a set. Think they are disco-ed, yep. I love those on our light cars. On heavy V8 cars with big HP they are not sufficient for track use.

Lou

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 18, 2021 1:49 pm 
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By the way there was a article on AllPar about using the aluminum Wilwood calipers on the stock rotors/hubs. It involved a special adapter that Andy F. made to bolt them on. However I can't find where to buy them. The links in the article did not work for me. If anyone knows where to get them I'd appreciate a heads up.


I actually found these brackets are still available from Dr. Diff! Why don't I just go there first for everything! :? They have good stuff at fair prices and are great to work with!

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 18, 2021 2:57 pm 
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I used the Wilwood Dynalite calipers on the 11.75" rotors and I liked them quite a lot on my '67 Valiant. I'm not sure I would try to road race with them as the pad volume is pretty small, but they were great on the street.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2021 6:23 am 
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Dang, I forgot about DrDiff. Yep, Cass is da man. I have done up to 30 min full on road course sessions with dynalite calipers and never had fading issues at top speeds up to 120-125.

Lou

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2021 4:30 pm 
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30 min full on road course sessions with dynalite calipers and never had fading issues at top speeds up to 120-125.


Think they will last for 12.8 seconds at 102MPH one time each hour or so? :D :D

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2021 7:01 am 
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Hah, child's play for those brakes. You should be able to lock the fronts at 102 MPH...

Lou

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2021 7:59 am 
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Rick Covalt wrote:
Quote:
30 min full on road course sessions with dynalite calipers and never had fading issues at top speeds up to 120-125.


Think they will last for 12.8 seconds at 102MPH one time each hour or so? :D :D


ran it through the finite analysis.. and yes you'll be fine.

You might even be able to take the first return Road.

Greg

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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2021 6:27 pm 
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Car ran Ok this weekend after I adjusted the throttle cable to fully open! Ran a best ever 12.80 at almost 103 MPH. Problem was it threw off the fan belt 2 times and tore off the oil pump drive belt when it went. It bent up my aluminum bracketry a bit so I will pull the grill , radiator ...etc and build a thicker bracket to hopefully remove any flexing in the alternator mount that may be causing the belt to jump off.

Also may try to mount an idler pulley on the backside of the belt between the alternator and the water pump. Ryan says the belt tends to want to "lift" up at high RPM. Would a smooth idler on the back side be a bad idea to keep it down in place? This is a V belt. Also wondering if a larger diameter alternator pulley may help the belt make a gentler turn around the alternator. I know it would slow it down some but I don't think that will be an issue.

Opinions requested.

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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2021 8:49 pm 
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I don't think you'd want to bend a v-belt the other way...........

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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2021 9:39 pm 
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I always run a big pulley on the alternator. It makes life a lot easier.

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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2021 3:06 am 
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I always run a big pulley on the alternator. It makes life a lot easier.

Thanks

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I don't think you'd want to bend a v-belt the other way.......


I would not bend it backwards. Just have the idler run just touching the belt and keep it from jumping. That is even if I have the room. Thanks

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