So say I get the hairbrained idea to try and repair my turn signal switch. After much cussing, crying, finagling, bleeding and whatnot, I manage to get my steering column apart (I swear whoever had the idea to use such a damned small snap ring needs to be shot) and get the switch out. How the dickens can I seperate the locking/cancellation mechanism from the rest of the switch assembly??? There's gotta be a way, since they sell replacement mechanisms as a switch "repair kit"...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

When you speak of the "locking/cancellation mechanism", do you mean the plastic ear-shaped piece on top of the switch (closest to the driver when installed) which contains the detents for the RH and LH turn positions, and has the tabs that get hit by the finger on the steering wheel to cancel the signal? If so, it just pries off the switch body with a wide flat-blade screwdriver. Is that the only problem with your turn signals, that they won't self-cancel?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

They'll cancel, but they'll only work if I hold the lever in a certain position, so I'm figuring that the contacts in the switch are boogered up somehow.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Mmmm. When you get the cancelling cam off the switch, notice and remove the little brass-wrapped plastic shuttles that actually slide up and down to complete the various circuit paths in the switch. Clean and inspect all the contacts, on the shuttles and in the switch body, then apply a thin film of Sil-Glyde grease (not the thicker silicone dielectric grease) to lubricate the shuttles and reinstall them. Be sure they go in the right way round; take careful note of how they're installed before you remove them. Test out the operation of the switch carefully before putting the column back together; if it turns out you need a whole new switch, you won't want to haul it all apart again!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yeah it's busted. A bunch of the wires were mostly broken and hanging on by just a couple strands and what was left of the insulation. New one from Rockauto already ordered. Was hoping I could fix it, but I REALLY don't feel like soldering all these old wires.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

You may want to see this thread for techniques to fish the signal switch wires up and down the column.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Getting them into and out of the column wasn't the worst part. Problem is that they're broken about 1/4" or so away from where they connect to the assembly itself, so repairing it would be a big pain. I wish I had more time to mess with it, but I need to have it back together by Friday (my Toyota's alternator took a dump and the Duster's becoming my DD sooner than expected), so I ordered one from Rockauto with overnight shipping. Now if I can just get the carb tuned right, I'll be set for a while!

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me