what is the torque for my 225 slant six on the nut that secures the damping/timing pulley to the crank?

When I torque down the oil pan bolts, is the gasket supposed to "pop out" of the seam just slightly?

I am using a 1973 distributor (because I converted my 66 to electronic ignition) and there was silicone at the base of the Dist where it rests against the hold down and the engine block, is there supposed to be silicone there? If yes, (and it was damaged) how do I repair? If no, what is it supposed to be?

These questions and I am sure more to come.

Thanks.

Caesar

The damper is a press-on fit; one you have it fully seated you can remove the bolt or leave it in. If you leave it in just tighten it enough that it won't work loose and back out. The pan flange should be straighten before you install it. I use a body hammer and fender dolly to tap it flat around the holes. These holes typically get a bulge in them when the pan is tightened down, especially if it's over tightened. Torque the bolts to 200 in-lbs. If you do it this way it will be correct. There might be a slight bulge in the gasket but there shouldn't be a lot. If there are large bulges where the pan bolts go through you've either tightened them too much or the pan flange is not flat.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

There should be an O-ring between the block and the dist. hold down plate. Check this thread.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... r+doughnut

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Super Six Conversion Stromberg

you answered my o-ring question.

next question is this: how do I install the damper pulley without the engine rotating?

thanks

Caesar

I needed engine assembly grease and they didn't know what it was and looked at the wall of grease and gave me this for assembly lube (says so on the tub). I feel uneasy about that.

Where could I ask for right kind like the red one ooze? Etc?

Cheers, Wizard

The best way is with the engine out, or at least the front accessible, use an impact wrench. If that isn't possible you can wrap an engine belt around the damper pully and use that to hold the engine stationary. I've seen people wedge a large screwdriver or pry bar between the flywheel and engine block but you need to be very careful if you do that. You risk damaging the flywheel teeth.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I stripped the threads on the bolt after I was able to drive it on with another longer bolt from my other car (same threads). what can I do? I can visibly see the threads on the first two threads of the bolt are stripped almost flat. Can it be re-threaded or does someone have an old one laying around? Anyone sell these bolts?

Caesar

I'm not certain, perhaps someone else can verify, but I believe it is the same bolt that is use on a small block V8. I bought one from the dealer for my Dakota and as I recall is was just a few bucks. Certainly less than $10.00 but I don't remember for sure. You can take the stripped one to a fastener store and probably get one for even less. If the bolt isn't long enough just get one a half inch longer to get you started then switch to the correct one to finish pulling the damper on.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

i was using my bolt from my 73 swinger with a 318, but that one is MUCH longer, and I was unsure if it would bottom out, so I pulled that one out and tried the slant bolt (since it was the one that was in there to begin with). When I went to tighten it, I got a thread or two started and it got tight, so went with impact wrench, then it just spun out and that is that. I haven't tried with the swinger bolt (318 bolt) but I know it is the same thread type, size, everything, just longer.

I saw laysons and year one have the one for the small block v8s I am going to call on monday and ask them if they have one for the slant.

any ideas if they don't and they only have small block? can i use it even though it is longer?

Caesar

you ARE aware that the "damper" is a "press fit",NOT secured by ANY bolt ? excuse me if I state the obvious. Also ,is never a good idea,IMO, to use air tool to tighten ANYthing that could be done 'by hand". Either you are in a hurry, in which case you deserve what you get, or you are trying to use more force than should be required,in which case something is not as it should be.Please don't ask how I know ect....

yes I was "in a hurry". engine had sat all week and I did not have an extra set of hands to help me. if the damper is a press fit, why is there a giant bolt that is supposed to thread to the crank pulley? is it there to ensure the pulley doesnt "walk itself loose"? that would make sense I suppose. I am not questioning logic, just trying to figure out if I made a mistake.
anyhow. I am going to buy a new bolt and tighten the pulley on by hand. even though it is a press fit, I have no way of "pressing" it on unless I use the bolt and washer to work it back onto the crank.

unless you have other ideas.

Caesar

Caesar,I didn't intend to belittle your efforts or anxiety over having this type of problem at this late stage. There are others here more qualified to advise you on the best methods of any particular procedure.Your question as to why is certainly legitamite,as I believe not all engines are so equipped.I'd suggest none knows but the engineers and accountants at Chrysler Corp.I think your only mistake so far was being in a hurry.I would venture further that you may have answered your own question and are on the right track now.I assume you cross-threaded the bolt and that is why it pulled out? I'm sure we'll both be hearing from others soon enough. Good luck and remember,if you don't have time to do it right, how will you find time to do it over ?

Some slants had bolts in the damper, some didn't and there is no scheme or reason for it that I have heard. The damper IS a press fit and the bolt is not required to hold it in place once it is fully seated. Use the V8 bolt to pull the damper on as far as it will then take it out and use the shorter bolt to finish the job. Lubricate the threads and you will have no problem with an impact wrench provided you get the bolt on fairly deep. Obviously 2 threads is insufficient. There is nothing special about the bolt; if you can't clean up the stripped threads so that it is useable, most any city will have a nut and bolts store that will have exactly what you need. Home Depot and Lowes have nuts and bolts and might have the one you need. I would avoid Layson's due to their reputation. Year one will have better customer service but will still charge more than you need to pay. Once the damper is seated on the crank snout you no longer need the bolt but you can leave it in if you choose; it makes no difference either way.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Nothing wrong with using air powered tools of course,some time is best,even only way to procede. Most useful breaking things loose or high torque is required.Should be obvious that if tight after two/three rounds,threads are dirty or crossed. Seen lug nuts tightened cross-threaded with air and not discovered until much later upon removal. this was of course OPERATOR error.

Hmm, time stamp is an hour behind . I don't think it's me?