Here's the deal,the dizzy in my slant is for a 76 dart.I converted the lean burn setup on the van(83) to an older style ign and just told the parts guy 76dart so as not to befuddel him.Worked fine for most of a year and tuned it up with a napa mo40/mo13 last year,it was a bugger getting the cap to seat but the german in me forced it and all was good.Fast foward,the motors back in from a redo and I pull the cap off dizzy to line it up for drop in,the center springy contact is burned off and you can see where contact on cap was pressing into rotor,say what? Got a new cap an rotor and the same thing is going on.With the dizzy in hand I have to squeeze the cap down to seat and its compressing the rotor contact big time.Long story short,whats up with this? I have another dizzy also ordered for 76dart and same same as this one.No slop in either dizzy so,is there a height differance in dizzys,caps,rotors? Sorry for the long confused question Thanks all.

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

Mine 74 distributor did the same thing so I set aside the Blue Streak cap and installed a used beige Accel cap that I had in a box of parts from eBay. No more problems.

I wrecked 2 Blue Steak caps and (3) good MO-3000 rotors.

I have been running the beige cap about a year now with no problems.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

silly question, but is the roter seated down all the way??
Andrew/Kidd

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Wife's: 64 Valiant
My: 70 Road Runner, 67 Barracuda, AND the 62 Valiant drag car!!

Most definitely.........it doesn't go out right away. It may take a week or two for the cap button to disintegrate and or rotor to fold over from not being perfectly centered. Some caps seem like they fit way too tight and will not center. Others slide right on and clip up with no problems centering............ and run perfectly! I just can't get the BlueSteak caps to work.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Echlin caps are junk — often ground off-centre such that some of the contact lugs are tiny slivers of brass, and others are almost fully circular; great way to hang up the rotor and make problems — and MO-13 rotors aren't a good choice. MO-3000 is the best rotor to pick, and Standard BlueStreak CH-410X is the highest-quality cap on the market.

If you haven't gotten the BlueStreak cap to work right, you aren't installing it correctly. It's better to have a cap that requires a carefully-firm shove to seat on the distributor, than to have one that just drops right on and can be wiggled or rotated against the clips a little this way and a little that way. The snug-fit cap gives better splashproofing and more accurate ignition timing. But "snug" means "snug"; the BlueStreak cap does not require gorilla strength to install. If you find yourself cursing and sweating and leaning on it, stop, because you are not installing it correctly or something is in the way.

The Accel caps: if you have one that's ground on-centre they work well, but they're an older design with lower dielectric strength and many of them made in the last 15 years or so are ground off-centre like the Echlin caps (because they are Echlin caps — just a reboxed MO-4000).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Have you checked to make sure that the reluctor (six pointed star) is pushed down all the way on the shaft? I ran into this problem while working on my brother's van recently.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

On mine,yes rotor is seated all the way down.Tried the "older"left over cap from unknown sources and no better,cann't find an old left over rotor.Ordered the m-3000 and I'll look around town tomorrow for a better cap.The dizzys are both "reman" from two differant autoparts stores and while I understand that probably means "junk" this is just to dang strange.I pulled the rotor off my 80 and while it looks different(black plastic) it fits the same way on both these other dizzys.It's got me totally flustercated as was pumped to have it running today and now I'm not sure that'll happen tomorrow.Funny thing is what ever was on both dizzys when I got them worked fine I just changed them over time to put "good" stuff in there and get rid of the "junk" And of course I "round filed" the cheap imported caps an rotors Is a point shaft different?could our friends off shore used a points dizzy to rebuild into a elec dizzy?I know nothing which is self evident Thanks all.

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

He must have bought a reman... the dizzy bodies that Cardone uses do not have the nice camfered edge around the rim of the body, like the OEM aluminum bodies, it is a cast lip that is un-machined, and sand blasted...

Set engine to TDC #1, pull distributor... take out a file and take the outer edge off at a 15-25 degree angle, test fit with your cap, repeat until you can get the cap to seat properly, without having to force it.... check with rotor and cap installed, then spin the gear and make sure the rotor is not making contact with anything, and is not hard to turn....

Been there seen that...

-D.Idiot

D.Idiot,where are these "used"dizzy bodies coming from that are on the remans if not old factory items? On my application the caps are fitting just fine its just there's not enuf "height"between top of rotor and underside of cap.Reed,reluctor was the first thing I checked as I've run into that problem with LAs in the past.On a side note,it's my understanding that cardone does little or no reman or new build they are a major "reboxer"of auto parts.My GMB waterpump(new)came in a cardone box,what can I say it was saturday afternoon and when you need a part you go with what you can find.

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

My mo3000 wasn't in yet this am so ran up the street to shucks just to see what I could see.Dizzy in hand we try a Select brand cap an rotor,TADA,fits pertect,nice an snug,no force involved and no slop.It's made in USA and I bought the set cause this puppy is running today and thats that! I went back to Napa later to get my "good" rotor and guess what? it doesn't fit any better than the mo13,gezz louizz.The parts guy starts pushing and swearing with both 13 an 3000 and we're scratching various body parts when "ah ha,look at that".The tab on rotor is to wide to slide down into the slot on shaft,you could see where the plastic was trying to "shave"off the edges of rotor tab Ok is it just my luck or could it be that Napas stuff,including the mo-3000,are getting shoddy? Anyway a "heads up"if others should have this problem. What say you SSDan?

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

Was the MO-3000 tan colored, or not?

Dan mentioned before about them accidently packaging the rotors wrong...and apparently all the MO-3000 ones are tan.

It's sort of peanutbutter brown,maybe a bit darker than that.

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

Peanut butter brown is correct. Yes, I have seen this before — sometimes the locator key on the underside of the rotor is a little too wide, and sometimes the slot in the top of the dist governor shaft is a little too narrow. In cases like this, you do have to lean into it and give a good shove for the rotor to seat fully...the first time you install it. After that it'll fit fine.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

they aren't 'used'... if you got an actual factual Oem dizzy it has an aluminum body, and if you pull the assembly out of the body there will be a nice clear cast date, month calender and a part number at the bottom of the cup... also if it's OEM it will still have it's plastic oil/vent shield ring around the hole in the bottom...remans have a cast ferrous metal body, usually looks like it's been bead blasted, and the lip is missing the nice chamfer around the lip for easy seating of the cap.

I'll take some pics, I have about 20 dizzy's to work with... and it's interesting to see what they give you for your money...I should cobble together a reman body with a crappy pickup , and trade in for a 'recent' reman and do a 'dissection'....

-D.Idiot

Lots of good pearls here, but I still haven't seen if you checked the reluctor as suggested. The rotor and even the governor are not the same things as the rotor.

The reluctor is the metal 'star" that makes and breaks an impulse when it passes the ei pickup. When you rebuild a dizzy you pry it up and off, and on reassembly you slide it back on the shaft. There is a relationship between the little pin that is between the star and the shaft. You will have to look at it to see what I mean...if the star is not pushed down far enough OR if the pin is too high the rotor cannot seat down far enough.

rock
'64d100