Morning Guys , I'm working on my 1965 Valiant and can't figure out how to get this wobble/shake out of the engine . I ran the valves , set the timing , checked the vacuum (18" ) . It smooths out once it's off idle . any ideas ??

Thanks,

Steve

Have you checked the air/fuel screw on the carb?

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To each his own (so what if I wanna build a 450 horse MPFI turbo /6 instead of using a V-8!)

I will try and fool with that now , thanks !

Motor mounts? Vacuum leak?

Crash , OK , I can screw the air screw all the way in or out without much change , do I have a carb leak or other problem with the carb (obviously something not right LOL!!)?

Thanks

If you can run the screw all the way in and it doesnt start running real rough or just plane die, then you got some dirt in the carb. Grab a bottle of carb and choke cleaner and squirt it through the air bleeds. After that, pull the screw out and squirt some down the idel mixture hole. Replace the screw and give that a shot. If that don't work, you might need to pull the carb apart and do a real good cleanin' on it. Hope this helps...

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Phil Hudlow 6678 S/C, S/G, ET

Yea, you got a plugged carb, get her cleaned out that should take care if the problem. Let us know if that fixes it.

Mike

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To each his own (so what if I wanna build a 450 horse MPFI turbo /6 instead of using a V-8!)

Damraider,
You got a big vacuum leak if you don't get alot of change out of the mixture screw. Check and make sure the base gasket is the correct one and sealing. The carb hold down nuts could even be loose.....

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Your right Ted, a vacuum leak would cause it to act like that. Been there before, just had my head wraped up in my timing problems

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To each his own (so what if I wanna build a 450 horse MPFI turbo /6 instead of using a V-8!)

Did it once belong to a Weeble?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Did it once belong to a Weeble?

Cool, really appriciate the help guys !! I cleaned the carb good and put it back on , no real change . I got out the carb cleaner again and started spraying all around the mating surfaces of the manifold , head , and carb ( I swear I thought I had done this, but guess I was wrong ,I think having 18" of vacuum threw me off this check) and sure enough the manifold had a bad leak in two spots , near the head !! Got it all apart and had to order the Remflex (be here in a couple days) . Gave me a chance the fix the broken stud on the rear exhaust while I was at it . Thanks again for helping me find this stubborn problem !!

Steve

Seems like it is always that last rear stud......same on mine.

After you get it replaced use some Never Seize on the studs and brass Dorman nuts. Don't over torque the nuts to let the manifolds move around when they expand and contract. Mine are at 5lbs. torque but the manifold is labeled 10lbs. If you go around about 4 times very gradually snugging it up, it should stay true. I use a 1/4" drive set for snugging and a long extension. It goes much quicker. Then switch to the 3/8' drive torque wrench. Mine has lasted over two years now. That way you won't end up with a cracked manifold.

Clean the manifold mating surfaces real good with a thick straight ply wood board with some sand paper stapled to it. I use one about 3' long and 6" wide with an old 80 grit belt off the vertical sander.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Make sure not to tighten the bolts that hold the manifolds together until you torque the assembly to the head. You will end up with all kinds of vacuum and exhaust leaks if you do.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.