Since Chrysler has discontinued the electronic ignition conversion for the /6 pionts type distributors, I am considering the Pertronix breakerless electronic ignition system. What experience has anyone had with the Ignitor and Ignitor II systems? Are they worth the money? I don't plan to race the 'ol 63 Valiant except in the "stop light derby". Thanx for your help and consideration. RMDV.

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Carl Zeamer. an old guy, please be gentle.

In the latest Mopar Collectors guide, Koller Dodge still shows the kits availible for $139.

The kit is not that big a deal to piece together. All you need is the module connecter, module, ballast, and magnetic pickup distributor, all of which are availible individually. Then a few feet of wire, the diagram on the articles page of this site, an hour or two and your set...

I put the standard ignitor in my '65 Valiant with one of their ignition coils. The thing works great, and it fits right under the distributer cap where the points are. The only difference is that you no longer need the little ballast resistor-just bypass it. Performance-wise it seems the same to me, so if you only use your Valiant on Sunday trips to the ice cream store you might as well leave the points in there. If you are ready to retire your dwell meter, go for it! Adjust your timing and valves afterward to complete the job.

I checked with Koller Dodge and they don't carry the Chrysler kits anymore. They are out of stock and appearently have been for quite awhile. The only place they are available is Jim's Auto Parts in Salem, NH. Jim wants about $269.00 for his; he has the only stock available. According to the laws of SUPPLY and DEMAND, if you control the SUPPLY you can DEMAND what ever price you want. My great burning desire is to get a '77-'79 Aspen or Volare as a doner car to get all of the goodies that will work on the 'ol blue '63 Valiant. In the mean time I thought about trying the Petronix system. Thanx for the replies. RMDV.

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Carl Zeamer. an old guy, please be gentle.

jim knows this. he thinks he is in control of many parts (50 bucks for a 4 speed boot?) i have used the pertronix setup on my swinger and it worked fine. kinda primitive, but it worked for about a year until i took it out (worked excellent with my msd box.) i wound up using a different ignition. you can piece together an eis setup cheaper and easier than jim's kits. either way you'll need an electronic voltage regulator. i think you can get a direct replacement for the old style type at napa. i believe the echlin number is vr-1000.

-james

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Thanx, James and the others. I'm about to get off night shift so will have time to resume looking for more parts. Wife doesn't completely understand, but after 35 years, she just rolls hers eyes back, looks up and mutters, "Why me God?". RMDV

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Carl Zeamer. an old guy, please be gentle.

I installed electronic ignition on my '64 Dart, with the parts coming from a '76 Aspen. Everything works great and any replacement parts that are needed are off the shelf from any dealer/parts store.
I know the wife thing. Mine doesn't understand why I have to have a couple of spare engines 'just in case'...

Try telling your wife the spares are kinda like the three extra pairs of sandals she has in her closet. Then see what happens!

Not a pretty sight

Jerry

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There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

I put the Pertronix Ignitor II in my 72 scamp about 2 weeks ago, took about 20 minutes and I am no mechanic. I ran it with the stock coil both with and without the ballast resistor, no difference that I could tell. I did get nervous about being stranded on the side of the road with a burnt stock coil though, so I ordered a Flame Thrower II coil and will install that today/tomorrow.

The Ignitor seemed to give it a bit more power, smoother acceleration, and easier starts, but I'm new to all of this as well.
WTS

I'll second the Scamp's experiences. I've got a Pertronix ignition and coil in my 71 D100.

Does the voltage regulator need to be changed with this set-up?

Thanks,

Joe

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Joe Hoppe

71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"

I am not sure if an electronic regulator must be used with the Pertronix kit - When we added the Pertonix to the 63 Dart we put a Electronic regulator in for "insurance". The Points Regulators cause the Voltage to jump around or spike when the points on then open or close. The newer designed electronics do not always take this into account. The Pertronix was around 75 dollars so the 11 dollar electronic regulator was cheap insurance.

We ordered it from JC Whitney - In the current catalog #675J-06 Program code AFFM2 on page 73 part 73UE7133U for a 61-69 Dodge,Ply,Chry
Price 9.99 until Sept 30,2003

Welcome to the Pertronix club, Have been running mine for 4 years now on a 63 Dart with no maintenance whatsoever needed. Using ancient Mallory Pro Master coil with updated electronic regulator plus duel field alternator. My understanding is it is not necessary to convert to a electronic regulator to use this. Have complete electronic system bought at Ramchargers, but am waiting for the right engine to install it on. By the way it is my inderstanding the factory electronic package has been discontinued by Dodge for the /6. Waited over two years for mine, hence the Petronix conversion.

pertronix is an electronic setup and i believe that electronics like a steady source of voltage that the points-type vr cannot provide (too many "valleys and peaks.") i have seen electronic regulators that will bolt in place with no mod. i am fairly sure the echlin part number is vr1000, but am not positive.
my valiant runs great with an msd box and mp electronic dist, but i do not drive it much to really be able to tell like a daily driver.

-james

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Question about this set up: I just swapped out my stock coil with a Pertronix Flame Thrower II coil and dumped the Ballast Resistor per instructions.

What about what looks like the capacitor that sits right next to the coil mounting bracket and seems to connect the positive coil post to ground. Should I leave that in? Is that the 'capacitive discharge' part of the circuit?
Thanks

Scamp, that condensor is unrelated to coil function, filters out ignition noise to your radio. Connect to the new coil as it was on the old one.