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 Post subject: Gauge mounting
PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 5:49 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
I have my electric fan switch cluster mounted under the ash tray, the 2 5/8" oil gauge is under the radio, the vacuum gauge is next then a large tach just before you get to the edge of the glove box. All are in the pod type brackets swiveled to where I can quickly glance at them. All are out of the way and unless your in the car you wouldn't notice them.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 6:26 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2007 5:27 pm
Posts: 187
Location: northern NJ, USA
Car Model:
Quote:
I've also been thinking about permanently replacing my oil pressure idiot light for a real gauge.
Don't *replace* the idiot light. Just add a pressure gauge. Your eyes will notice a warning light faster than you can see and recognize a low gauge reading. Unscrew the switch and install a close nipple and tee. Reinstall the switch in the end of the tee and the gauge sender in the side fitting.

For a street car an electric gauge is just fine. Use wire that has insulation rated for the ambient under-hood temperatures, and protect it in a corrugated sleeve.

My experience has been that mechanical gauge tubing is always a problem. The nylon tubing gets brittle and leaks, and metal tubing will fatigue and crack. If you use nylon tubing, plan on replacing it every 2-3 years, whether it needs it or not. Be especially careful of routing the tubing under the dash. Protect it and secure it so that it won't vibrate against anything. Oil on the carpet is a pita to clean up. Always secure the tubing to the engine within a few inches of the end, and leave a generous length between the last engine support point and the first body support point. You need at least 2 support points reasonably close together on each side of the body-engine segment to limit any motion to that segment.

Ken
:-)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 1:56 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:36 am
Posts: 1209
Location: Rome, GA
Car Model: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
OK, put a gauge on it. 25-55 lbs of pressure. Something is amiss with the light as it will even flicker OFF with it disconnected from the sending switch. The gauge they had at the parts store is a cheapie with plastic line. What do most you you plumb with?
Thanks for all your help guys.
Brad


Last edited by drgonzo on Sat Sep 04, 2010 6:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 2:44 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
The oil light should be off with the wire disconnected. The oil light has switched power to it and the pressure switch provides a ground path when oil pressure is below the switch setting. Sounds like you have a short to ground somewhere in the circuit.

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Joshua


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 6:15 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:36 am
Posts: 1209
Location: Rome, GA
Car Model: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
Thanks Josh. When I get a chance I will pull that dash panel and see if I can figure it out. Of course it could be in the wire somewhere else I suppose.


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