hi everyone! im new on here.

so ive been building this 73 dodge b200 van with a slant 6. ive changed virtually every seal and gasket, new radiator and carb.

now every time i start my van i have to warm it up for ten minutes before it will idle. and then i can drive for an hour, turn it off for 20 minutes and then ill have to warm it up for 10 minutes all over again. its pretty frustrating.

now could this be because the carb needs to be set more? im not running a thermostat at the moment. i havent changed the water pump. im bringing this van back from the dead. it seems like it doesnt idle that strongly so could it be i need adjust the idle? any help i truly appreciate!

Welcome to the board!

Two things:

- First, put a thermostat in there! That's not what causing this problem, but it's needed for proper engine operation.

- Second, when your engine is stone cold, press the accelerator quickly to the floor then release (Without starting engine). Now look at the choke plate on the top of the carb. Is it fully closed (or almost fully closed)?

Adjustment varies with carb and year, but if you can slip anything more than a toothpick through the gap around the choke plate you have a choke that is not closing enough. Start your repairs or adjustments there.

BTW - Rebuilt carbs from auto stores are notorious for being complete junk. You may have a bad carb (if you bought a rebuilt one).

Also, if you don't have the Factory Service Manual to set the carb adjustments, then now is the time to get it.


- Mac

The engine will never warm to operating temperature without a thermostat.

The FSM is available on CD from www.moparmanuals.com (Dave Waller of the Mopar Mailing List). If you prefer a paper manual, they're available from www.autobooksbishko.com Bishko also has owner's manuals.

Ken

i checked the carb and the choke plate looks to me to be almost fully closed. i will re-install the thermostat tonight. ill get a manual for sure! i have a three month warranty on this carb, if you guys think this is the problem ill have to meander back over there asap.

Proper choke operation is as follows:

(1) when the motor is cold, as in first start of the day cold, opening and shutting the throttle should cause the choke butterfly close fully.

(2) Opening and shutting the throttle should also cause the fast idle cam to drop under the fast idle screw so the fast idle screw is resting on the highest or second highest step of the cam.

(3) As soon as the motor starts, the choke pulloff diaphragm on the carb should pull the choke open roughly 1/4 inch (this is a ballpark distance, the true distance varies on either side of 1/4 inch depending on model of carburetor, emissions package, vehicle equipment etc...)

(4) engine speed at first start in cold idle should be somewhere between 1300 and 1500 RPM, but 1500 is rather high.

(5) as the engine warms up, the choke should slowly open and, at the same tim, the fast idle linkage should slowly move, moving the position of the fast idle cam until the cam is completely out from under the fast idle screw.

Sounds like you might have a vacuum leak as well.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.