My Daddy just inherited an automatic on the column 1967 Dodge Dart (I think 225 Slant Six) that only has 89,586 original miles on it from my Great Aunt Mary who died at the young age of 103 a few weeks ago. Daddy helped her buy this car brand new in 1967 from one of the Darlington, SC sales, and before she died she said she wanted him to have it.

I was looking around at it this morning in the old shed where it has been parked for 6 years, not running or anything, and it's in great shape. The body is perfectly straight with no accidents (she literally only drove the thing once a week to town to get groceries because she lived next door to her church) and just a ding or two on the chrome that looks great. It's a white 4 door, and the interior still looks brand new except for a couple of spots where mice got in and gnawed on the headliner.

I know we need to drop the gas tank and boil it out. How hard is that to do? I've restored a 1964 Plymouth Valiant convertible before so I know a good bit about these cars, but I never dropped the tank on mine before. I know we better boil the radiator and of course replace the fuel pump, rebuild the carburetor, replace the belt and hoses... but any advice is welcome. I'm excited to get to work on this car because it's in such good shape!

Anyway, just wanted to see what you guys have to say. Also - what do you think something like this car would be worth once we wash and wax it and get it back up to speed?

Thanks!

Barry

Jeremiah 29:11-13

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Barry

Jeremiah 29:11-13

Current: 1967 Dodge Dart 270/225

Previous: 1964 Dodge Dart, 1966 Plymouth Valiant Signet, '64 Valiant Convertible

You may not have to boil the gas tank out. Remove the tank and take a look inside and see whats going on. If it's just yellowish from varnish, you can run some water in there with a cleaner. Then drop a chain in there and shake it around. Cleans it up pretty nicely. Also take a look at the sending unit and make sure its in good shape.

As far as what its worth, it's hard to say without pictures. 4 doors wont bring in much money. Usually about $500-1000 depending on condition. If it's real nice you can probably sell it for up to $2000 but you have to be patient and find someone that really loves 4 doors.

Hi,

What does dropping a chain in the tank do?

Thanks.

We probably won't spend much money on it, but by the time we put tires on it and get a water pump, belt, hoses, plugs, filters, etc. it may cost a little bit... but it'll be a fun project. I'll try to get some pictures of it once we get it to my house.

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Barry

Jeremiah 29:11-13

Current: 1967 Dodge Dart 270/225

Previous: 1964 Dodge Dart, 1966 Plymouth Valiant Signet, '64 Valiant Convertible

It's just kind of a way to 'scrub' the inside of the tank.

Thanks, I was a little interested if it worked as a sacraficial anode (Unlikely I guess), but I guess it helps loosen up everything in the tank, and to mix cleaning chemicals better?

Thanks for the advice on that, will use it next week when I pull my tank .

Sounds like a great car with a lot of family history. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. You'll want to do a valve adjustment.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Fellow 67 owner here,

Take a good look at the braking system, pull all drums, look for leaking & stuck cylinders as well as the master cylinder, if soft brake lines are older than ten years, and or stiff & cracked replace them, inspect all hard lines for corrosion replace as necessary, flush out the old brake fluid by bleeding until fluid runs clear. Moisture will build up in a braking system causing pitting in cylinders & lines when a car sits which cause leaks from poorly sealing soft parts. Check parking brake cables for freedom of movement.

Also while the brakes are apart, clean & repack front wheel bearings. Changing rear-end oil, and transmission fluid if discolored and or stinky.

I would pull all the plugs out, and turn the engine over until oil pressure comes up, than pull the valve cover to check & set valve lash a thousandth loose when cold. Make sure that there are no bent push rods, and that they rotate as engine is cranked over. Clean out any gunk built up on the top end.

Once you get this car moving under its own power, expect a lot of oil leaks from dry seals. Sometimes adding seal treatment that swells seals will work to stop most leaks, but don’t hold your breath. Chances are good where your aunt only drove the car once a week, there may be a few stuck rings. Once you trust the car, take a long trip on non interstate highways for a few hundred miles. The rings should loosen up, and any smoking should subside after 1000 miles or so. These cars that sit just need to exercised.

After the car is running well, take a good look at front end, and rear spring bushings. Chances are that they are original equipment and have dried out and in need of replacement.

Bill

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Wow... I am really glad I found this forum! Thanks so much for all this great information. I can't wait to jump in to work on it, and it will be a lot easier now with this info.

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Barry

Jeremiah 29:11-13

Current: 1967 Dodge Dart 270/225

Previous: 1964 Dodge Dart, 1966 Plymouth Valiant Signet, '64 Valiant Convertible