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PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 10:55 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:29 am
Posts: 1290
Location: Silver Spring, Maryland U.S.A.
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this is the firewall side exhaust bolt/rusted so much that a wrench/socket slips
it is very tight area
this motor is in Mary's 1969 Dodge Dart slant six
which we sold to a friend to build a track 360 car
we are keeping the motor/auto trans and I want to pull thses this winter. but the bolt looks like trouble

any thoughts?

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:05 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Soak the whole assembly with a penetrating oil, such as Kroil, PB Blaster, Knock 'Er Loose, or a comparable product. DOn't use WD-40 since it isn't a penetrating lubricant. Let the penetrating oil soak in for a good few hours, or even overnight.

If you can't get a flare fitting wrench or a vise grip to stay on the lower bolt, then your only option would be to cut the exhaust pipe and remove the stub from the manifold with the motor out of the car in a area where you have more room to work.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:13 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Silver Spring, Maryland U.S.A.
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the exhaust looks like a good replacement recently
I would rather not cut it
will try pb blaster..
again

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 12:16 pm 
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Location: Texas
Car Model: 1964 Valiant convertible 225 automatic
If you have a Dremel tool, you can cut the nut with an abrasive disk. You usually don't have to cut it all the way through, as they will often loosen with a light tap from a chisel.

I'd be lost without my Dremel when I disassemble an old car.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 12:35 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Silver Spring, Maryland U.S.A.
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I got out my trusty harbor freight hand grinder w/cutting disk. 2 mins. done..
spark o'fun
cut the lower nut/bolt combo
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 5:00 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
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Location: Black Diamond, WA
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That was nice that it was bolted....

When you move up to 2,25" pipe it is even harder to get a wrench on the nut and turn it.
Use stainless bolts and nuts or extra long brass nut next time. It goes much quicker....

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 Post subject: Lol....
PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 6:35 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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When you move up to 2,25" pipe it is even harder to get a wrench on the nut and turn it.
Then you do like the mechanics...jack that side of the car up, put it on a jack stand, lie on your back and use a 3/8" drive ratchet, 1=12" extension, and 1-short wobbly, use a nice socket (like craftsman so it has good tensile strength and a thin wall to the socket for clearance). I've never had a problem with this method (works even better if you have a hyperpak intake since you can't get to that nut from above anyway...LOL).

-D.Idiot


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