To those of you who have had the luxurious experience of simply heating the crank sprocket and 'slipping it on' with only a minor 'tap' to ensure it's seated, I'd love to hear what kind of parts you were using and get better at this technique.

I just installed the JP Performance multi-keyway crank sprocket on my 170 and even though that thing was 400° hot when I installed it, no way did it simply 'slip on'. Quite a bit of very hard tapping was involved to the point where the nice numbered face doesn't look quite so nice. And this was after (per Doc's Twin thread) I sanded out the bore.

Just use the old gear on top of the new gear,that way you are hitting the old gear and not marking your new item. Always use a hammer and a soft metal drift,ie brass or alloy. Works for me. I've heard many people speak of the tight fit,my roll master set was certainly a tap fit and needed a puller to remove it,but it's not overly tight . Remember you may well need to remove/install this gear a few times while degreeing your cam.

It's common to have to hone the crank gears on most aftermarket timing sets, even V8's, because the interference fit is simply too much. Many aftermarket balancers also have to be done this way. Its often too much to just sand out with sand paper, and actually has to be honed.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

I have had the same problem with the "multi key" crank sprockets, but not any of the single key sprockets. That is why I don't use them, but use a single key set, and drill the cam sprocket for a bushing.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225