On my 73 Duster, I replaced the fuel sending unit because the old was completely rusted out and didn't register anything. The new one works fine when tank is plumb full but after a couple days of driving, it reads empty even though it is not. The other gauges work fine so I guess it's not the limiter? Any suggestions? Thanks.

Mike

Your fuel gage isn't calibrated for the sending unit you put in. you need a gage that is made for the same your the sending unit was made for. IE: when I replaced my temp gage I had to go back to the yard and get the sending unit from the same car to get the gage to read correctly.

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That doesn't make much sense. I bought the sending unit from Laysons or Quanta (I forget which) and it was specified for my car. How is it possible to ever have a functioning gauge if they are all matched sets? Since I bought the sending unit new, any suggestions on matching a gauge? How does one figure out the right one? Is it possible the gauge or limiter is somehow defective? Please don't take this the wrong way and that I am somehow blaming you, I am just amazed that Mopar would have come up with such a crazy system. Thanks.

Mike

All you can really d is determine how many ohms of resistance the sending unit puts out at full and empty and find a gage that fits that range.

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Any suggestions as to who might handle gauges such as that...it would also need to fit in the cluster properly. Thanks.

Mike

It was my understanding that the voltage limiters were used only on older models. What if I bypass only the fuel gauge around the limiter? Will that deliver the correct voltage to the gauge with the new sender? Thanks.

Mike

On older models the limiter was integrated into one of the gauges (gas or temp, can't remember). On a 73 you have a seperate module. If the temp gauge is working, the module is likely fine.

If your sure you have the right sender, then it is time to check your wiring. Make sure the sender is grounded (tie a small length of wire between the fuel line and the sender body). If nothing changes, ground the signal wire attached to the sending unit and see if the gauge pegs (don't let the gauge peg for more then a couple seconds). Check the connection at the bulkhead and make sure it hasn't rotted away, same for the connector behind the drivers kickpanel leading to the rear harness.

It is also possible your supplier made an error and gave you the wrong sender. You need to know what the resistance range of your original sender was and compare it to the sender you have, if this is the case.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

All the grounds and connections are new and I double checked the continuity and it is all fine. The gauge does register full when the tank is full and it gradually goes down until it nears half tank then it quickly drops to empty. Any suggestions on where to get a gauge, or maybe I should get another sending unit. Thanks.

Mike

I would get the sending unit swapped out. I don't think there are any aftermarket gauges that fit into the cluster.

After finally getting this beast on the road, I am addressing some finer issues. I noticed that I went too cheap on the shocks, particularly in the front. I also finally found strut rod bushings that were needed. Along with that is the fact that they had the ride height set way too low in front. Once that is adjusted upward, that might make the gauge operate better. As I look at the thing, it seems OK until about 1/2 tank and then rapidly drops. However, it still registers slightly above full until almost empty. I am thinking the ride height may at least make it better, realizing that all fuel gauges have their quirks. Any thoughts? I should make these changes this week and I'll let folks know how it went. Thanks.

Mike

After finally getting this beast on the road, I am addressing some finer issues. I noticed that I went too cheap on the shocks, particularly in the front. I also finally found strut rod bushings that were needed. Along with that is the fact that they had the ride height set way too low in front. Once that is adjusted upward, that might make the gauge operate better. As I look at the thing, it seems OK until about 1/2 tank and then rapidly drops. However, it still registers slightly above full until almost empty. I am thinking the ride height may at least make it better, realizing that all fuel gauges have their quirks. Any thoughts? I should make these changes this week and I'll let folks know how it went. Thanks.

Mike