in slackjaw stunned language, it means "nice car".

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Thanks!

63s are way too cold, they'll foul in a hurry and your car will run worse than before. Since you have a supply line for Autolite plugs, see if you can get them to order you in some 925s. These are of the correct heat range (two full heat ranges hotter than the too-cold 63s you put in) and have a doubly-long set of electrodes that moves the spark point further into the combustion chamber for better, more consistent combustion over a wider range of mixtures. These plugs were developed when carburetion got really difficult in the late '70s due to emission controls on certain engines; they work great on any engine that will accept them, and the slant-6 is such an engine (I run these plugs in my '62).

Beautiful car! I think that's what the "Oh my god" comment was about -- original low-miles 4-door Darts like yours are very scarce nowtimes.

That is a nice car Cr. Clean for a northeast car.
Oh yeah, good to see you around again!

The "oh My God" comment could also be in reference of the first picture listed.

What In the world are those guys doing in the backround??

I have about 200 miles on the 63's and so far so good. Though this motor doenst burn any oil and the carb seems right on the money.


I just tracked the milage and its getting 19.5MPG with city and HEAVY highway (that hood REALLY moves around at 85mph)

The PO had a mopar performace kit installed to replace the points with the mopar dist...that dist is a POS. Today i checked it with my dialback light and its 13BTDC at idle...ok no problem...All in its going to 46!! at 3000rpm or so... This motor should be pinging like a mofo but only has a slight ping at WOT pulls at low RPM.

I have a set of 64 or 65's im gona try out when i get the dist down to 34ish all in. These worked well in my 360 and i have a few sets at home.

I dont think we carry 925's at all at work. BUT wouldnt moving the plug out past the threads in the head make it act like a super duper hot plug?

I have a smooth running, low mileage engine that does the same thing. Fires right up and idles nice with the choke on, but after it warms there is a miss, not a real bad one but noticeable.

I did richen up the mixture a tad, and also tried a #61 jet on the 1920 and I got more power, less mileage (from 20 to 16), and no change on the rough idle. I know that the main jet is not in operation at idle but I think it's all part of the same equation so what the heck.

Now that it's warm out I suppose I'll take a look at the plugs and see what story they are telling. Somehow though I think a 2 barrel is the answer.

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72 Scamp 225 /6, auto, radio delete, alum super six, cold air duct, pertronix ignitor II and flame thrower, 3.23 rear, 2.25" free flow exhaust

Well i got the timming down to 10idle/38all-in and the motor wiggles around like crazy in there now. Maybe my timming set is going south? Hmm...

CrAlt,

I would suggest welding or epoxying up some travel in your mech advance slots inside the dist. You really want 28-32 deg total mech advance, and around 5-15 (depends on cam/comp) at idle for best running. 38 deg total advance will decrease power output quite a bit.

What idle speed are you running that it shakes badly? Cam is degreed?

Just a few thoughts...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I will prob weld up the slots on my next day off. I knew it was to much but at least I got it down some.

I have the dist off my hi-po slant but that one is like 15 to 20 at idle 34 total. I dont think the stock starter on this motor will start with that.

The motor is bone stock 1bbl. Im thinking my timming gears might be shot.

OK, I thought this was your built motor, my mistake. Yep, could be t chain...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988