i completed my super six swap today and took it out for a test drive. i was pretty disapointed with the test drive. i couldnt tell any difference from the 1 bbl. it was just a short drive and i think my carb could take some more tuning but i was expecting to be able to tell a little more difference. im running my stock exhaust. will a little better carb tune and and the bigger exhaust get me a little more seat of the pants difference? i know its prolly hard to tell from my description but what do u guys think? everyone always sounds so happy with the swap i was just expecting a noticable difference. sorry to be so vague but im kinda worried i wasted my time for little gain.

When you put more air and fuel into the mill, you have to have some way to move it back out again...the stock super six had a large exhaust pipe so if you're trying to make some more power you need to up the pipe size to 2 1/4", check your timing( you know advance it until it pings then back off a bit, on an uphill climb...), and tune the carb (timing light-dial back preferred, vacuum gauge, tachometer needed)..

I just did this swap today on my stock '74 Duster, but it's sporting a 'big' tail pipe, so next week when I dial it in, I'll be able to tell you whether it's your setup or if it's your automatic tranny and slo-poke gearing...


-D.Idiot

the 2.25 exhaust is coming soon and my brother is gonna help me tune the dart up tomorow so ill see if that helps. then ill see the difference the exhaust makes. i just hope i can tell a difference when its all done.

More CFM = More RPM = More HP
How hard did you spin it up?
What rear end gear ratio is in the car?
DD

i have the stock rear, 2.76 i guess, i wound it up pretty good, enough to see how shed perform i thought.

my car really came alive when I tried the supersix setup...cant wait for the 4bbl

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http://www.cardomain.com/id/lncognito

my 77 volare supersix hauls butt......but when i 1st got it it didn't. Already had the big exhaust.Chopped off the autochoke and installed manual.It's not perfect, but when the manual choke is just right,hold on!!!Also when I changed plugs,it had the HORRIBLE A.C's in it .I went with the NGK V power plugs and could NOT be happier!!!! Has 2.76 gears...remember everyone:supersix f-body wagons have 2.90 gears!!! they are PERFECT!!!!!!!! I used to stay at EXACTLY the same accelleration rate with a supersix wagon vs. my buddy's 318 aspen wagon.Boy was he demoralized!!!

Most late A-bodies like a 73 swinger with an automatic come with 2.76 rear gearing for economy/highway, and they are real 'slugs', 2.94's were optional but weren't common. Sadly FMJ Body rear axles don't bolt into A-bodies so that doesn't help. If you really want that Wagon to have pickup you'll start searching for Diplomat or 80's Gran Fury that used to be a municipal car/cop car...used to be pretty common, they will have 3.21 sure grip rears (usually mated to a 318-4v and A-727), you can bolt that rear in and your slant will be much happier shoving the heavier wagon around...

-D.Idiot

looking through your other posts about your car, you haven't given a lot of background. When was the last time your car had a tune up? I mean a-z everything. All the carbs in the world won't make up for a miss or burnt points.

I currently have 2.76 gearing in my 65 Dart convert, put these gears in for the 1100 mile "round trip" to the Las Vegas race.
Off the line power is sluggish with this gear but get this car on the open road and watch-out, it will comfortably drive at 100+ mph

I need to swap back to a more reasonable gear ratio before I get a speeding ticket, the car wants to be at 75 mph min.
(it has an 8 3/4 "drop-out" rear-end so gear swaps are a 45 minute job)
DD

my car runs flawlessly. there was no miss or any problems anywhere in the car. they way it sounds i just need a little more test and tuning time. the problem now is that before i could drive my car more than down the road and back my dad instisted on tightening my belt. well, he ended up breaking off the bolt so after a whole day of super sixing i get to take my alternator off and take that to get the broken bolt drilled out. i started my swap last friday and first ran into the problem of finding intake to exhaust manifold bolts, then i had my wisdom teeth out on tuesday which caused a delay and now the altenator. im starting to get dart withdrawals.

(1) Make sure thee are no vacuum leaks
(2) Make sure the distributor vacuum advance hose runs directly from the ported vacuum tap on the carb to the distributor. Do not use the OSAC valve
(3) Set your base timing at 10-12 BTDC
(4) Give the carb a thorough going over and set everything to factory specs. Pay special attention to proper adjustment of the metering rods.

Reed

i have a question about the transmission kickdown. where it attaches to the the carb and that long piece that has a slot down the middle, does that part of the linkage move or is it supposed to stay stationary? does the kickdown attach with the same pin that holds the throttle cable on? i also am using my six cylinder throttle cable and there doesnt seem to be any problems other than a real big loop that it has to make to attach to the bracket. it looks to be working properly. im just not sure if when you mash on the gas if the pin slides in that slot or if it is supposed to be attached so it doesnt slide. i cant really tell in any of the pics if ive got it set up right. if anyone can understand my jibberish about what im talking about i could use a little help.

Have you looked at the "Super Six" article on this board?

This is a picture form that article of the kickdown linkage:


The arm you are talking about (the one with the long slot in the middle) should have a spring on it which keeps it in constant contact with the "pin" on the throttle linkage. The kickdown should move as a unit whenever the throttle is opened. There should never be any time where the throttle moves but the kickdown doesn't. You also need to be sure that you have the kickdown adjusted properly. The adjustment is made at the transmission.

The throttle cable and kickdown arm both mount on the same "pin" of the carb. The kickdown should go on the outboard side and the throttle cable on the inboard side.

Can you post some pictures of how your kickdown is currently assembled? That would be very helpful.

Alos, make sure you have all the vacuum ports on the carb correctly hooked up or plugged, whichever applies.

Reed

i have read the super six article, many times. my kickdown is assembled exactly like the picture but i dont have a spring on it. my pin is too short to run all the way through so im having to use a bolt since i cant find a clevis pin that small. so what i need to do is attach a spring, which i probably have laying around somewhere, to the pin and the kickdown linkage, right? then ill check to see if its adjusted properly.