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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2022 9:35 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Aug 16, 2019 8:17 am
Posts: 197
Car Model: custom roadster
Update: Meh.

I have two sets of rubber mounts for my original/reconditioned early-style brackets. (I ordered one set of mounts, saw it was going to arrive much later than I wanted, ordered a second set, and then learned about the nice Polybushings product.) When the first set arrived, the left mount didn't want to line up with its bracket. OK, fine. I got a lousy set, and it's not worth the time/trouble of sending it back. We'll just wait for the second set... Then the second set arrived. This is how the better of the two driver's side mounts fits the bracket:

Image Image Image

I'm no engineer, and I am a novice at building cars (to put it generously), but I think that nub is supposed to sit within the hole the bolt does not occupy. Is that correct? Does the Polybushings mount fit the brackets neatly? Please tell me I got crap mounts, and not a crap bracket...


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2022 10:32 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Aug 16, 2019 8:17 am
Posts: 197
Car Model: custom roadster
Daddiojoe wrote:
...go from back to front then--driveshaft, transmission, then place the engine where it would naturally fit.
Been thinking about this. So far, our fore-and-aft placement has been governed by the transmission crossmember that came with the chassis. Dropping the trans right onto there seems to work very well, in terms of ergonomics and of clearance for the steering box, starter, and exhaust. It's a weird and pleasant coincidence, given that most people are running SBCs and TH350s or flatheads with whatever tiny 3-speed manual gearboxes those came with.

We have some pitch, yaw, and roll to play with. I believe the pitch should be a ~3-degree decline, I know the roll is a 30-degree slant (heh), and the yaw may be dead parallel to the frame rails, with the crank and transmission sitting in a straight line as viewed from above.

We've just tacked the rear lower control arm brackets in place and mounted the arms.

Image

Using the trans mount as a fixed reference point, and assuming certain dimensions for everything but the driveshaft, the plan (so far) has been to line everything up and cut a driveshaft to fit. (This probably sounds incredibly basic here, but it's all new to me.)


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2022 10:39 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Aug 16, 2019 8:17 am
Posts: 197
Car Model: custom roadster
slantzilla wrote:
A laser level and angle finder will be your friends.
Pat already had an angle finder, but he didn't own a laser level, so I "gifted" him a Bosch GLL30. I mean, it is a gift. It just happens to help with this build. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 1:53 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Aug 16, 2019 8:17 am
Posts: 197
Car Model: custom roadster
It's starting to look like a car! I need to get a low-mount alternator bracket and one of those cool integrated-clutch, metal-bladed fans from Toyota or Mercedes. Anyone got one they'd like to let go? (I'll post to Parts Wanted, also.)

Image


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2022 9:29 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Aug 16, 2019 8:17 am
Posts: 197
Car Model: custom roadster
I'll go with a stock single-groove fan pulley, a big aluminum spacer (probably Speedway Part #91015730-3.00), and an always-on mechanical fan (Maradyne MFA114) for now. As the spacer suggests, I have plenty of room for a clutch fan, so I might swap one in later. The radiator is a generic 3-core aluminum import (Amazon ASIN #B09LV4VYXM, which has jumped 25% in price since I bought it three weeks ago, double-u tee eff); we'll see how it holds up.
Attachment:
06AUG2022-gs.jpg
06AUG2022-gs.jpg [ 198.96 KiB | Viewed 1464 times ]


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2022 3:31 am 
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Board Sponsor & Moderator
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 16449
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model:
Very cool project and nice progress. Do you have a top on the engine yet?

Best,
Lou

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2022 9:01 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Aug 16, 2019 8:17 am
Posts: 197
Car Model: custom roadster
Dart270 wrote:
Very cool project and nice progress. Do you have a top on the engine yet?
Thanks! The head we'll use came off a 1970 Dart. It'll get 1.72" & 1.45" valves (block will be 0.060 over). I picked up COMP Cams 901-16 springs & 744-12 retainers. All of these choices were made based on older posts and generous advice from forum members. Can't thank you guys enough.

Patrick cut the bottoms off a couple of cheap reproduction '32 grille shells and tacked the tops together for this nose. The hood is going to be loooong.


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hoooood.jpg
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2023 10:21 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Aug 16, 2019 8:17 am
Posts: 197
Car Model: custom roadster
"The reports of my death are greatly exaggerated." *

Progress has been slow, as it tends to be on unusual (complicated-PITA-but-still-fun) projects, but we're still at it. The first pic shows the recently-made 16Ga driveshaft tunnel/armrest and 18Ga trans tunnel. See the long door openings? The stock doors on these things work fine if the steering column is at the original angle and the seat is at the original height. Drop the seat, and slant the column, and suddenly the steering wheel blocks the door. The usual solutions are to become an amateur contortionist or to pop the wheel on and off all the time. Pat decided to stretch the door openings, fortify the subframe around the seatback to compensate, and cut/weld four regular doors into two long ones. It's been a LOT of work, but we think the long doors will look cooool. The circle shows a fit/alignment gap we fixed after the photo was taken.

Image

The second pic shows our current problem: To get a nice slope on the hood, we're mounting the radiator low. That puts the engine fan high and to the left (as seen by the driver) of where we'd like it. Even if we use a 13" fan, we're gonna bite the radiator inlet hose. (We could hide a pusher fan in the nose, or use an electric fan/shroud in the engine bay, but we're trying to make this look like an early 1960s build.) What I want to do is make an adapter and stick a fan to the crank. We have enough ground clearance for it. Do you know of anyone who has done this before? Their input would be very helpful.

Image

The alternator won't sit quite so low/inboard. I'll add an adjustment arm to bring it up and out some.

* https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/562 ... xaggerated


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 18, 2023 2:23 pm 
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Triple Duece Weber
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Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2004 6:05 pm
Posts: 2010
Location: Desoto Texas
Car Model: 1972 Dodge Colt
Really cool project!
On your long hood, I wish I had a little longer run under the hood.
My damper is soooo close to the front crossmember tube.
I can't put a socket on the crank bolt!
Long is good.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2023 11:14 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Aug 16, 2019 8:17 am
Posts: 197
Car Model: custom roadster
Quick update: The shortened-and-raked stanchions are roughed in, and the shortened windshield frame fits. The long doors have been roughed in; they will be reinforced to increase rigidity. All of these parts will be "massaged" (persuaded to fit more neatly) and tidied up later. The diamond-quilted upholstery will be correctly oriented when we make the seats. (It's on there sideways right now.)
Image


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2023 5:37 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Aug 16, 2019 8:17 am
Posts: 197
Car Model: custom roadster
Just popping in to drop some engine block p0rn. :P
This is Basurati's 170ci block, overbored 0.065 and freshly honed.

Image


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2023 2:30 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 16449
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model:
Very cool! Are you thinking spring 2024 release party?? ;)

How far from home do you intend to drive it?

Lou

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2023 5:07 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 8977
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
Dart270 wrote:
How far from home do you intend to drive it?

Lou



Hopefully far enough to get to Boonsboro, MD :D :D

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2023 6:06 am 
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Triple Duece Weber
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Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2004 6:05 pm
Posts: 2010
Location: Desoto Texas
Car Model: 1972 Dodge Colt
I just re-read this, some install advice.
Put everything you are going to need on the engine.
I left everything off mine only to find I could not get the oil pump out.
And I had very little clearance to the oil filter.
And the aftermarket damper won't allow a puller to fit and clear a frame tube.
So the more you have on, the better you will be when it comes time to fix stuff.

That is my 2 cents.
Loving the project!

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2023 8:36 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2002 9:07 am
Posts: 1129
Location: Cypress, Texas, Northwest Houston. The Lone Star State
Car Model:
Cool project!

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'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318


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