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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2021 2:00 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2003 3:52 am
Posts: 264
Location: Helsinki Finland
Car Model: 1966 2D Dart
I am building a 170 cuin slant for turbo use. I will use Felpro gasket as they are widely available.

HOW MUCH BOOST a stock compression slant can handle without any special rings on the block/head surface?


E85 fuel and EFI with closed loop O2 sensor => well controllable burning process without detonation.

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp.


Last edited by lgu32 on Fri Jan 14, 2022 4:38 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2021 5:03 am 
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It all depends on the tuneup and avoiding detonation. My guess is around 12-16 psi.

Lou

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2022 4:12 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Helsinki Finland
Car Model: 1966 2D Dart
Ok I'll try stay below that point. The T3/4 I have has 0.8 bar setting as stock. It is about 10-11 PSI.

Here it is pre-installed. There was room enough for everything thanks to slanted engine.

Image

Image

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2022 5:04 am 
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Looks like nice work so far. Glad to see you have EFI installed. Best wishes for the rest of the build!

Lou

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2022 5:45 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2003 3:52 am
Posts: 264
Location: Helsinki Finland
Car Model: 1966 2D Dart
This car was my test bench for I build an analog fuel injection system long time ago. It has now replaced with Maxxecu (ECU).

I have 4.10 gears and 26" tires and 5500 rpm at the end of 1/4 mile. I thought a 170 is safe for more RPM but I have to get the torque kept ...

Turbo setup will have 7 (seven) fuel injectors. All are equal in size...

But where to put the 7th?

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2022 2:15 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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Anti-lag for the 7th injector?? :twisted:

Greg

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2022 5:38 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2003 3:52 am
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Location: Helsinki Finland
Car Model: 1966 2D Dart
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Trying use E85 pre spray for cooling. When sprayded just after turbo output it meet the hot air where ethanol will boil - similar to methanol & water mix spray but this uses same fuel (only E85 with 70-85% ethanol) as the 6 sequential injectors.

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2022 6:36 am 
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Are you using a fuel sensor? Here in the states, the ethanol percentage varies greatly. E-85 is a "max" of 85 %. It can be a lot less.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2022 8:42 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2003 3:52 am
Posts: 264
Location: Helsinki Finland
Car Model: 1966 2D Dart
I am planning to add a flex fuel sensor because the availability of E85 is not good at all areas. For E85 ethanol percentage the continuous O2 sensor feedback is enough. I am using a AFR table as the target and it works well.

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2022 4:33 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2003 3:52 am
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Location: Helsinki Finland
Car Model: 1966 2D Dart
This is ready for road tests and tune up. Still much slippery roads and parked in a garage. But tested ”running”.

Image

Image

Image

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp.


Last edited by lgu32 on Tue Mar 29, 2022 4:39 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2022 4:37 am 
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Very exciting! Hope the roads clear up soon and you can take a drive. Congrats on first fire up.

Lou

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2022 10:09 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2003 3:52 am
Posts: 264
Location: Helsinki Finland
Car Model: 1966 2D Dart
During the 1st tests with boost I made an observation joining to the brakes. Especially to the brake booster connection. I have power brakes but no idea which booster I have. It was in the car when I bought this at 1998. It sat well on the 4 bolt wirewall mount but the installation is not practical enough for factory used device. This is true because the bolts are installed to the booster and the nuts are inside. Not very fast installion. I have never dismounted this. But because it works it will stay...

And it has a valve in the hose and it seem to be working well in naturally aspirated car...

...but under boost the valve let the pressure go in to the booster. Sure it will kill all the boost effect but more important observation come later. The booster will let the pressure flow to the main cylinder. Yes there is room in the bore and the seals which are cup shape will do the same. Boosted overpressured air will go to fluid and let it flow out by pushing the cap slightly.

I have now new one direction valve which work. I have also another safety valve if the main valve start to leak. The safety valve will let the boost flow out without noticeable pressure increase inside the booster. I tested this and it was ok.

...think about full throttle 1/4 mile and then you have empty brake main cylinder...

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2022 9:17 am 
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Rather scary. I have never liked power brakes on a Mopar A-body (or F-body).

Happy Slanted motoring,

Lou

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2023 5:01 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2003 3:52 am
Posts: 264
Location: Helsinki Finland
Car Model: 1966 2D Dart
My 2nd season with 170 turbo engine stopped within days from start because heavy oil leak at the rear of the engine.

The real seal seem to be ok. I tested with pressurized air and the only leaks were at the seams but these were "minor".

My crank is "polished" to get the threads off from the crank rear seal area. This mean the treads were taken off by a lathe. It made my crank smaller (71.35 mm > 71.1 mm). I thought it could be better with a rubber lip type seal with no threads.

However it didnt have enough pressure to seal anymore the oil inside.

Now my crank is at the machinery shop. They will add some more thickne$$$$ to the seal area to keep the lip seal in touch during hard pulls. They weld it bigger and then do the rest by lathe and polisher machine.

I also found some new type wear signs from the connecting rod bearings. My crank and rods were professionally dimensioned (and checked). So all they were the same. So were the signs too. All sides of rod bearings were glossy I think the 170 crank is bending under pressure - and probably doing some vibrations too. Also the upper shell has glossy center (too much boost!).

For next I will reduce the max boost lower. It has been in between 0.5 and 0.8 bar (I am using E85 only) at 3000-6000 rpm. The next weakest spring of wastegate actuator has 0.3 bar less so I will be the chicken and take it. Then I stay at the 0.5 bar area.

It was so funny at the full 80.8 bar9 boost at 6k. The sound of small slant together with big turbo is music to my ears.

But the 170 crank is so light and thin that it could not handle boost as well as the (truck) 225 crank.

It is hard to get parts nowadays. I ordered just a set of rod bearings from rockauto. They were shipped from 3 locations. From the other sources they were alredy sold out.

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2023 5:12 am 
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lgu32 wrote:
I also found some new type wear signs from the connecting rod bearings. My crank and rods were professionally dimensioned (and checked). So all they were the same. So were the signs too. All sides of rod bearings were glossy I think the 170 crank is bending under pressure - and probably doing some vibrations too. Also the upper shell has glossy center (too much boost!).

.

You might be getting into detonation. Do you have full groove main bearings? There are people that say full groove mains are not desirable. But I run them on all my slants, and since doing so, have never had a oil related engine issue. Even when I ran my turbo, and had detonation issues. Bearings looked good, pistons not so good.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170


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