Ever have your engine boil over because you forgot to turn on the radiator fan after your burnout? Ever leave the water pump and fan on to cool your engine after a pass, only to forget about it and come back 2 hours later to a dead battery?

Here is the New & Improved Temperature and Battery Minder Module that will be available this spring (2022) for $50. Reserve yours early by sending a PM to me and receive $10 off. This promotion ends after March 20th.

The Temp & Battery Minder takes the guess work out of temperature control. Who needs yet another thing to keep track of during a busy day of racing?

How it works: Use a toggle switch to turn on the electric water pump when you first start up your drag car. As your engine heats up, the grounding temperature switch (provided by you) actuates the radiator fan. Upon returning to the pits, turn off the water pump switch. The water pump and radiator fan continue to run until the engine has cooled to the off temperature of the temperature switch.

The Temperature and Battery Minder is easy to hook up. Just follow the connections shown on the schematic.

Reserve yours today! Price includes domestic shipping, or pick yours up at the track.
BTW: This Module is good to 30 Amps. If you are running dual fans, you may need to use another relay to actuate the dual fan set-up.

Cool! More parts for the shelf...

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Not to take any thing away from you, but I have been using a "cube" timer for fan/water pump control, and 2nd stage of nitrous activation, for several years. This company has many different configurations available "off the shelf", and can build custom configurations. http://airotronics.com/

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Is this something you personally are doing Jeff?

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Charlie_S you are correct. Certainly many ways to accomplish the same thing. I built my first version with cheap ebay relays and have no more that $6 in it. Works great. However, I found that many racers just don’t know how to do electrical, or if they do, don’t want to bother. So I developed this little module to make the connections simple. I originally marketed to local racers, but figured some of the slant six racers might be interested.

Literally at every race I go to, someone either boils over because they forgot to turn the fan on, or they are trying to burn up their battery pumping it with 50 amps charger to make the next round because they forgot to turn the fan off.

This little module fixed those two issues, and those two only.

If people want to buy the 3 or 4 relays and do the wiring, it’s no secret how to make it work. I posted the schematic on SDRA Tulsa Facebook. If they want to buy this little circuit board on eBay, Amazon, or from China, and make all the proper jumpers, they can do that as well. It’s the same schematic as the regular 12 volt relay setup, just on a circuit board with screw terminals.

Glad you have a system that works for you.

Yes! The original version used four 12 volt relays. The wiring was tedious with all the crimp terminals. This little circuit board makes the connections easier.

Just so everyone know, the same thing can be accomplished with three relays. That’s the setup I have in my car. The problem is, the switch used for turning on the water pump is actually providing a ground.. When using a LED indicator rocker or toggle switch, the LED doesn’t work because it’s a grounding circuit. Basically the current is going the wrong way to light up the indicator LED. I resolved this by adding a forth relay to convert that portion of the system to a positive 12 volts input signal.

Or you could try to disassemble the switch and reverse the LED polarity and use the 3 relay version. I chose to use the 3 relay version and just know the the indicator light is not working for a reason.

This little circuit board resolves the polarity issue with a forth relay and makes the connections quick and simple.

I’ve been asked several times what grounding temp switch to use. The choice is yours. I have been using American Volt temp switches with good results.

https://www.americanvolt.com/collection ... -grounding

You can use whatever brand switch as long as it’s a grounding switch. American Volt has a wide verity of temperature on and off ranges. Many others are available from other sources.
A narrow range works well for me.

That is the reason, I did the fan/water pump control.
Any one that knows me , personally, knows I am a "motor mouth". I will make a run, park the car with the fan WP running, then go off and run my mouth, and run the battery down.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

We have all done it.

Greg's video with him turning the fan on and off reminded me that I got one of these from Jeff. I ordered the grounding sensor today.

Maybe I'll get it put in before I sell the car........

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.