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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2005 7:53 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Texas
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I got my new motor and trans put in my car and have it running. I cant seem to get the car to idle while its in gear though. Every time i come to a stop i have to put it in neutral. Then, when i go to take off i have to feather the throttle to keep it from dying. My 904 was rebuilt and the stall raised 200-300 rpm. The head has been ported and 60/1000 taken off. Im running a comp cams 264 and a carter bbd on my super six intake. The carb is off a 318 and seems to be running a little rich at idle. Do I need to go with leaner jets of is there something else i should try? If it is the jets, does anyone have a suggestion on what size to use?


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 Post subject: One possible reason.
PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2005 9:14 am 
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Quote:
carter bbd
vacuum leak at throttle shaft? It's a classic problem. All 3 of mine are due to be rebushed.

This is of course only one of many possible reasons that your problem could be happening.

If it's rich at idle, check the choke for proper operation and then move on to adjust the idle and idle mixure screws. It takes some practice to get everything into sync.

Jet changes are not related to idle with the BBD. Also, you can lower the metering rods compared to the 318 setting. Nice part is that you don't have to rebuild the carb to lower the metering rods.

It could also be related to timing, but I think it's carb tuning for starters.

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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2005 10:23 am 
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Sounds like you may have a fault in the EGR system, if you left it functional. A 264 cam is on the edge of being a rough idler on the street.

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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2005 6:52 pm 
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My car doesn't have a choke since im running headers.

I have been playing with the metering rods quite a bit. I just wanna check to see if im doing this right. From what I can tell, screwing the allen key in (tightening it) is raising the the metering rods and loosening it is lowering them. Is this right?

I do not have the egr system hooked up. I have it blocked off.

Today i advanced the timing to about 12 btdc and have been playing with the metering rods some more. It seems to have helped. I can keep the car running now, while in gear, by giving it a little gas. The problem is that the idle gets so low that it bogs or dies when i try to accelerate from a stop.

Another thing I'm curious about is my pcv valve. The thing is rattling like crazy. The guy that rebuilt my motor commented that it wasn't working right. He told my dad that and i wasn't there to hear any more and he didnt tell him anything else than that. I guess i'll go get another one and see if that is any help. Thanks for the advice guys, i'll keep tinkering.


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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2005 1:54 pm 
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I've kept playing with my car and got it working better. Does anyone else with a 264 cam have these problems? One other thing I've yet to do taht i want to try is changing the fuel filter. I'm trying to get it all sorted out because I was going to try and make it to the dragstrip on Friday.


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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2005 5:37 pm 
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My new comp cam says 64-240-4 on the box. I assume it is a little milder than yours and my car idles terrrible too. I have an auto tranny. Let me know what you find out


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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2005 5:57 pm 
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Lancer, are you having the same problems that I'm describing?


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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2005 11:18 pm 
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What is the valve lash set to?
Try re-adjusting the valve lash and going looser to see if that helps your idle quality.
DD


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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2005 8:40 am 
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I've got the car to idle in gear now, but it still is giving me problems when i try to accelerate from idle. I'll check my valve lash later today. The car has very little power off idle and it takes a minute for it to really start pulling. And then it does start to pull and i never thought my car would accelerate that well, and i still have the 2.76's out back. I'll keep working on it but if anyone has any suggestions I'm happy to hear them.


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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2005 9:56 am 
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Quote:
screwing the allen key in (tightening it) is raising the the metering rods
Yes, but that is not the correct way to adjust the metering rods.

Instead, There is a plastic arm which raises the metering rod assembly as the throttle is opened. This plastic arm is attached to a horizontal rod and adjusted with a single screw. Mark the position before adjusting with a fine tip marker. If you remove the screw and special square washer, you will see that the plastic arm has an adjustment slot.

This adjustment will give you a much greater range of motion than the allen screw, and is the proper way to adjust the metering rods.

The metering rod adjustment is not likely to correct an idle problem, but might correct your off idle bog.

Your carb's accelerator pump is connected in exactly the same manner as your metering rods. Take a look, it's the other plastic arm attached to the same horizontal rod. It may be out of adjustment if you arn't getting good power when you first hit the gas.
Quote:
Do I need to go with leaner jets of is there something else i should try?
Nothing that you have described in this post suggests that leaner jets would solve your current problems. (in my opinion) I have worked all the bog and idle problems out of my slant six with 318 bbd without any rejetting, but I am running a stock cam.

Other than cam, I still think you need to get your idle speed and mixture screws into a better adjustment. A fresh engine shouldn't need to run rich at idle.

I agree with others that you should be confident of your valve adjustment and pcv operation before doing much else.

Don't get discouraged, these things take time.

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 Post subject: And...
PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2005 10:05 am 
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One other comment on metering rod adjustment. The metering rods are vacuum controlled to some degree. A spring holds them up, but when the engine is running, the vacuum holds them down.

You can experiment and view this condition with the engine running without hurting anything by carefully moving the air filter and metering rod cover out of your way and using care not to let anything get sucked into the motor.

Now you can experiment. Try adjusting the metering rods with the engine running at idle. You should find that the metering rod adjustment has no effect on idle. :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2005 10:58 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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i think i finally might have solved my problem. when i went to take the gas cap off to fill her up today it nearly shot out in my hand. i guess it hasn't been venting. i drove around without the cap and it ran almost perfect. i'm going to set the carbs settings all back to how they were and tune from there again. this happened just in time since i'm heading to the track tonight. i'll post back and tell ya'll how we run. thanks for the help.


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