I just got my 833 OD back in the car after rebuilding it myself. Several of the gears are new along with all the synchros. My questions are:

1. Why is it very hard to shift, especially into first/second.
2. Why did I get stuck in 4th (OD).

Thanks

Caleb

I had my tranny rebuilt (1964 - 3.09 first gear) and here is how it works:

Shifting into first at anything above a slow roll requires a double clutch or a pause in netural before going into first gear. This is normal.

The first - second shift can be stiff, this is normal.

The shifter motion between any of the gear changes is very light and relatively fast.

I never had it stick in fourth gear.

The rebuild included new syncros and bearings. The gears did not need changing. I am using the stock, factory Hurst shifter.

You should be able to move the shift toggles by hand (or with slight help from a small set of pliers if your hands aren't strong enough...and they should click into the next gear)... Did you follow the factory proceedure and adjust your shift linkage using a 1/4" diameter nail or awl and line up the shift levers on the hurst shifter before attaching the rods?

-D.Idiot

Regarding the lower gears, I am aware of the shifting, what I'm talking about is the difference between before the rebuild and now. Getting into gear is a tedious process, stopped or not, which requires a little strongarm.

And Duster. yes, everything in the transmission is fine. I bench tested all the gears by hand before and after I installed the tranny in the car and everything performed well. And yes, I lined the shifter up as well.

Overall it seems to be loosening up as I drive it, perhaps 100 miles so far. No other problems are present, just very stiff getting in and out of reverse and first, where second isn't quite as hard yet still fairly difficult.

Thanks

You may have to break in the new components...shifting might be easier if you used ATF per the factory...My OD is hard shifting in all gears with sub 40degree weather and 90wt. oil....


-D.Idiot

yup. my rebuilt 4 speed is a bit tough to shift when cold. it gets better as the car warms up though. anybody here tried redline or other "performance" type oil to remedy this? any particular grade of ATF usable as an alternative, rob?

-james

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Ive used 10w-30 in some of my manual boxes. (non synthetic)


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

The weather shouldn't be much of a problem here, I've never driven the car when its colder than 65 outside since I got it back together. Gotta love the southwest. I'll keep it in mind though if things don't loosen up soon.

The factory just used Dexron-Mercon like the A-904/727 guys use...Can't say that 'Performance Oil' is going to be any better than ' standard' gear box lube...maybe just a different color.


I've heard a couple sides to this one, it works good (never used it myself due to argue #1 against it). But You might want to change it regularly as Motor Oil uses detergents to clean the engine while lubing it and keep the dirt in suspension...I've heard, but never seen, that the acids in the oil after it gets heated and 'old' can start to eat on the brass synchro rings and cause some clearance problems...The trick one of my local tranny shop specifies is to use non-detergented 30 wt. (industrial lubrication application...used to be able to pick it up at K-Mart 15 years back in the Auto section...)


-D.Idiot

yeah, it's easy to get burned by the "high performance" label. quite often a scam. i have used redline in many customer's cars (miatas) and it did help cure hard shifting problems. especially since the bulk gear lube our supplier sold us wouldn't work at the time. totally different trans i know, but wondered if anyone has tried it in an 833 with any success. i'm getting enough miles on my fresh trans to change the fluid for the first time and thought i may try a different oil to smooth the shifts a bit. i guess i'll go with the dextron atf as you suggested.

-james

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Do you have the clutch adjusted properly, there should be about 1" of play, before the throwout bearing engages/disengages.

Kesteb:

The clutch is adjusted fine and from all I can tell is fully disengaging. I say that because I can go into reverse without grinding.

Thanks again ya'll

Caleb