I have the Haynes Manual 30025. Dodge Dart/ Plymouth Valiant '67 thru '76. Chapter 1 page 14 and 15. From your torque specs there are quite a few that are wrong in my book. The oil punp also says 25 ft/lbs. Timing cover also says 25. Also the cam sprocket says 50 and yours says 35. Quite a bit of misinformation here. There are other minor discrepancies but those are the most blatant. Up to now this book has been pretty good.

Thanks,

Doc

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Sweet Emotion

I used the factory service manual as the basis of my chart and added a little personal experence. The torques I listed should keep you out of trouble.

25 ftlbs for a sheetmetal cover is a lot, that is a problem.
I don't even go up to 200 inch lbs. on most of the sheetmetal I install, especially if it has a cork or rubber gasket under it. (hard paper can take that but again, you don't need it)

The timing chain's bolt can take the 50 ftlbs so that will not hurt anything.
DD

Must be the same Haynes slant manual that I'm using. I just did a swap to my temporary engine so I can start the rebuild on my forged crank motor. When I torqued the pan to 22 ft/lbs I saw the rear pan seal actually pull away from the corner of the pan like it was stuck on the edges of the block and not able to "pull around the corners" so to speak. I backed off a little, but still have to park pointing downhill to keep from drooling out the back of the pan. I also sheared 2 pressure plate bolts trying to torque them down. I've come to trust my instincts more than that manual. I was worried that the oil pan was distorted . Would a new pan be advisable for the rebuilt engine, or just try it again without the overtightening?