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Runs great until the red light... STALLLLLs!!!
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11728		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  rust collector [ Mon Feb 14, 2005 10:09 am ]
Post subject: 
Try a pcv-valve from a car that used a weber?
Author:  textoad [ Mon Feb 14, 2005 10:26 am ]
Post subject: 
Dan,

that's seems strange because I have a manifol in my garage. When I look at it it sems like if the spring expand it would close the vale. This has always puzzeld me. Maybe I'm looking at it wrong.
Author:  Guest [ Tue Feb 15, 2005 6:50 am ]
Post subject: 
Pulled the carb last night and also pulled the Proline fuel adapter plate off. Found a hair line crack where the PCV port goes in. It's between the plates. I must have tightened the brass elbow too much. The crack starts on the outside of the plate and goes in about half way but never reaches the inner hole on the secondary. But it could leak past the brass thread into the PCV hole and into the manifold.

Couple questions, should I just use some sort of RTV and hope for the best?

Is there a special RTV that would work best on intake systems where gas is present?

Would JB weld work?

It's a very fine crack and hard to believe it caused much of a leak.

Would a small leak cause driveability issues? Especially in this location?

Is this location especially critical? These Holley/Weber carbs are very sensitive in general.

Proline fuel is closed so I can't immediately get a replacement.

Does anyone else make these adapters?

One other thought is to tap the hole deeper and cleaner and get the brass pipe in deeper past the crack while I have it on the bench.


Thanks
Author:  textoad [ Tue Feb 15, 2005 8:28 am ]
Post subject: 
I was on a different computer and wasn't logged in. Came up as guest on my last replay.
Author:  textoad [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 7:20 am ]
Post subject: 
Ok. I tapped/chased the threads, on the PCV inlet hole on the carb base and plugged it with 1/8 NPT brass plug and some RTV and let it sit 24 hours. I removed the EGR vale. Fabed a plate with a drilled and tapped hole on the intake side and screwed a 1/8 inch NPT elbow into it. Then with a couple more fittings I ran 3/8 inch fuel line hose up to the PCV in the valve cover. The grommet is somewhat hard but I think the seal is good.

I reconnected the adapter plate and carb to the intake and off I went. Drove it to work and it ran fine through stop and go and got all the way to the last light at my job and it stumbled and died. Then when I got to my parking spot it did it again. Arghhh.. :?

So I think I'm onto something but not the complete solution. I'm thinking vacuum leak still and maybe now it's the intake manifold after a while is not sealing properly. I only have 10 foot pounds on those bolts so I may go to 11 or 12. Also I could boost or retard the timing from 10 BTDC as I have it now. Or it's possible the grommet at the PCV is not sealing good because it is rather hard from age. Not sure how good that need to seal but it's worth a try.

One other note, I can feel the PCV valve vibrating rapidly as it's running. Is this normal. It's not real loud but when I touch it I can feel it.

Also the car seems to idle fine when I restart it. It's just when I'm in gear coming to a complete stop it just bogs and then dies.

Thanks.
Author:  textoad [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 7:22 am ]
Post subject: 
BTW I haven't tried a PCV from a different car yet. That is still a possibility. I called Weber and they said use the stock PCV and had no further recommendation.
Author:  Guest [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 5:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ok so now it does it all the time. Now I'm thinkin distributer sticking or lazy or the heat of this mornings commute did something like alter the sealing of something on the manifold. The quest continues. BTW if I take it out of gear and goose it it will idle forever after that until the next stop.
Author:  textoad [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 8:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sorry, it was me on the last post. Didn't log in.

Do distributers get lazy and act intermittently?

I can get a new replacement for 45 bucks. Should I consider that. Aftermarket at Checker Auto.
Author:  kesteb [ Fri Feb 18, 2005 2:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
Weber carbs should never see more then 3psi of fuel pressure. If it is higher then, this they flood. Which would cause your stalling problem. What is your fuel pressure?
Author:  Guest [ Fri Feb 18, 2005 4:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
The pressure gauge reads about 4.5 with the regulator set to 3.5. When I drop the regulator to 3.0 the gauge says 2.5. So I don't know where to set it and there is no setting between 3 and 3.5. I'll try three on the regulator and see what happens. Thanks.
Author:  Slant6Ram [ Fri Feb 18, 2005 4:46 pm ]
Post subject:  One answer
Quote:
One other note, I can feel the PCV valve vibrating rapidly as it's running. Is this normal. It's not real loud but when I touch it I can feel it.
That's the way it should be.

As for distributors, yes they can act funny, but I don't know if you've described a distributor type problem. You need to determine if it's a fuel problem or an ignition problem. It sounds like testing the fuel pressure adjustments is a good next step.
Author:  textoad [ Sat Feb 19, 2005 2:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
Bought a rebuilt distributor and it still does it. Put the old distibuter back still does it. Re adjusted the valves to .020 while running. Thought I might have them a little tight. Replaced the rotor and cap with good quality ones. Replaced the coil. We're shotgunning it now.

Checked the Autolite 66 plug gaps all at .035. The plugs look too dark to me. Running rich. I also hear an intermittent miss but not when under acceleration. I checked the compression for the hell of it and I get 140 on all cylinders. All plugs look too dark for my taste. Also now the air/fuel mixture screw has little effect even when screwed in all the way. Time for a carb disassembly. This is really frustrating.

I bought a new adapter plate as well since I dorked up the old one.

Got a new on from Weber, sent it in one day. Go Weber!

It seems like the problem is most significant when I do a hard stop. At this point I think I might adjust the float level lower slightly. If I ease into a stop real slow it stays idleing. Wierd. I'm thinking this problem is flooding at this point.

BTW I set the timing this time using vacuum. I get about 15 on the scale at highest point, then I back it down to about 13 or maybe 14 and it's at about 10 BTDC using the light. The vacuum reading shows the miss as well. I can see the readings drop about 1.5 to 2 on the scale every couple seconds.

I also supect the alternator on this car as well. I replaced the brushes but the don't know anything about the history of it. Wondering if the alternator could cause this problem?

In the mean time the carb is coming off for a full physical.

Stay tuned.
Author:  textoad [ Sat Feb 19, 2005 7:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
OK I pulled the carburetor and disassembled it. Completely cleaned it and blew it out. I installed 165 main jets. 50 and 55 in idle jets for a leaner mixture. I adjusted the float to factory specs and made sure I got the emulsion tubes in correctly. Reassembled it and installed the new Weber adapter with fresh gaskets. Got it all back on and fired it up. Does the same thing. Although now the A/F mixture screw is working properly and the car accelerates better and smoother under load. So now what. Now I'm thinking voltage regulation at low idle. I measured the voltage on the coil and it measure 9.8 volts. I measure the output of the alternator and I get about 15 and voltage at the battery is about 14.7. But when I get the idle down real low it starts to jump around. So now I suspect the alternator or voltage regulator. Not sure what the voltage should be at low idle or whether the symptoms I am having could be caused by a flaky alternator or voltage regulator.

Thanks.
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