I thought the vac can was a mirror image on the small block distributors. I'll have to take another look to be sure. I know for a fact, that the armature from a 318 distributor will work on a slant six by just changing from the 8 point reluctor to the 6 point reluctor (this is electronic distributors only)
As for springs, you should be able to adjust the loop on the heavy spring with a pair of needle nose pliers. It is also possible to adjust the lobes or tabs that the springs mount to.
Quote: Centrifugal advance is only 7 degrees at 2100. It should be 9 or 10 before the pin contacts the long loop on the heavy spring.
9 or 10 degrees of mechanical advance still isn't enough. The number stamped on the centrifugal armature (with the slots) should result in double that amount at the crankshaft. Even with 10 degrees of mechanical advance, you'd need an initial timing set to about 20 btdc, but I don't really think that's what you want.
Unless you've incorrectly stated the numbers (it happens) then you really need to get the -mechanical- advance worked out before trying to fine tune the vacuum pod.
You're getting some very good experience. I remember being a little afraid to pull the distributor out the first time, but now I've done it so many times that it's old hat. I've got a box of old distributors to rob parts from and try different spring, armature and vac can combinations. Try Ebay or your local mopar junkyard. Lots of times they have a PILE of slant sixes that they use as paperweights.
Quote: When I hit the pedal and hold it (from a 30mph cruise) it hesitates, coughs or even backfires through the carb
If your accelerator pump is adjusted wrong, you could actually be getting a lean problem when flooring it from half trottle. I made this happen by mistake on a friend's car not too long ago. After if coughs, it pulls hard again?
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so I can only guess. The guys at the parts store really love me.