Oh yeah, if yours is a 69-older car its got a single field alt, 70-up are dual field, minor wiring changes to use a 70 up alt. on a 69 down car, back of newer alt sometimes called "squareback" older one "rounded back". Use something like an 84 5th Ave or truck with a 318 as your application, and you want EXCEPT 100 or 114 amp.

Don's solution is definitely the easiest and least costly, and as I mentioned previously, the "old style" Mopar alternators do work well when in good repair.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

And this would be the next place I have to work on, lez see, there's a cracked exhuast manifold that needs replaced, along with the head, since 2 or 3 valves may be burnt to toastiness.

Just noticed that when it was stalling, i didn't hear the engine stutter, the ammeter just plunged way down to the discharge side and that was it. Restart the car and we're usually good to go.

As for iginition system, that's a mostly new set up. Slant6Ram helped me install a Mopar EI and distributor, I installed new plugs and wires.

But if it is the Fuel system, what should I be looking for?

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The old white brick

Would this be good? Bosch 40/90A out of a LeBaron?

Ebay Alternator

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The old white brick

That Bosch unit has the wrong pulley (it's for a ribbed flat belt, not the V-belt you have on your Valiant). You could make it work if you were to replace the pulley. Also, if you're going to the trouble of bracketry mods to put on something else, I'd try to find the Nippondenso unit. Also, try to find something fresher and juicier!

But you'd spend less money and make less effort to buy this brand-new original-style alternator, which would require no adaptation at all and would be plenty adequate for your Valiant's needs unless you started adding monster stereos, killer big lights, a fridge, a stove, etc

For even less money, there is this old-stock Mopar reman unit, or this one.

I don't see any "juicy" Nippondenso units on eBay at the moment.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Definitely a good first step. It's amazing what you can find and fix (or file away in the brain for future fixing) when you pay careful close attention under the hood like this. But, your stalling at idle isn't likely due to a problem with the alternator.
Dim headlamps at curb idle can be due to several different factors, alone or in combination. Idle speed set too slow and/or engine not in fully proper tune will cause dim lights and stalling at idle. "Remanufactured" alternators are notorious for having poor low-RPM output even when the engine is idling at the correct speed.
You're thinking along a good line here, but dielectric grease isn't the right kind of gookum. "Dielectric" means a material that does not conduct electricity. In automotive practice, this term generally refers to silicone-based grease that are helpful in locations such as the rubber boots on both ends of the spark plug and coil wires (where the grease can prevent water getting in and providing an electrical path to ground along the side of the spark plug insulator or distributor cap tower, and also prevent the boot from "baking" onto where it's attached and tearing when you try to remove it) and the outside of battery cable terminals (where the grease can help slow down corrosion).

If you're trying to improve conductivity of potentially dirty connectors that are subject to vibration, what you're after is some sort of gookum that improves conductivity. The Imperial LeBaron of these substances (around here, we don't have Cadillacs!) is called Stabilant-22. A tiny bottle costs the better part of $100, and it is overkill for most automotive applications. Next best thing is probably Kopr-Shield. If you don't have time to wait for Kopr-Shield, then head over to Lowe's or Home Despot and pick up a small tube of Ox-Gard



which is meant primarily for working with corrosion-prone aluminum household wiring, but works well in automotive applications, too.
That can certainly contribute to stalling, with the degree of contribution depending on where the crack is. Your 1971 came equipped with a thermostatic air cleaner system that draws intake air across the surface of the central collector area of the exhaust manifold to heat the air up when the engine is at less than full operating temperature. If the crack is anywhere even near this collector area, exhaust will be drawn into the intake tract by the air cleaner ducting, and this "full time EGR" will certainly cause poor running, slow idle and stalling at idle.
Well, shee-yoot! Even one burnt valve can cause stalling at idle...if you've got multiple extra-tasty-crispy valves, then it's scarcely reasonable to expect the car not to stall at idle. Seems to me you may want to hold off on alternator modifications or replacement for now, and focus on the more pressing mechanical issues with the car.
I think you are maybe confusing cause and effect here. If you have the lights and other loads turned on (heater...? Wipers...?), then yes, when the engine stops running, the ammeter will point towards "D".
-Choke thermostat operation and adjustment
-Choke pull-off operation and adjustment
-Carburetor condition (throttle shaft bushings!), operation and adjustment
-Manifold heat control "heat riser" valve operation
-Thermostatic air cleaner system operation
-Vacuum hoses (cracked, missing, misrouted)

Plus the abovementioned impact of a cracked exhaust manifold on intake air.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Geez, lots of fun stuff for me to look at and do in the coming months. As for the electrically conductive additive, sounds good, but i'm not spending a fortune on a lil' bottle of the stuff so I'll probably head over to the hardware store where I worked and see what they have.

As for the extra krispy tasty value bucket of toasty valves and the exhaust mani. I believe Slant6Ram was willing to help me out on that, I'll have to drop him a line and see what's up.

Yes I do see it after the car stalls, but I also see it before. Just things i get to look at since the speaker died on my radio. gets kinda boring after the 23rd verse of "I'm Henry the Eighth I am"

As for the alternators, looks Like i'm gonna hold off on getting one, unless a ND unit pops on Ebay.

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The old white brick