Quote: I've been having some problems with the car at idle with the headlights on, sometimes it stalls out, so i figured I'd give all the connections a good looking over, cleaning and retightening as necessary
Definitely a good first step. It's amazing what you can find and fix (or file away in the brain for future fixing) when you pay careful close attention under the hood like this. But, your stalling at idle isn't likely due to a problem with the alternator.
Quote: It'd be nice for my headlights to not dim when I'm not moving.
Dim headlamps at curb idle can be due to several different factors, alone or in combination. Idle speed set too slow and/or engine not in fully proper tune will cause dim lights and stalling at idle. "Remanufactured" alternators are notorious for having poor low-RPM output even when the engine is idling at the correct speed.
Quote: when I'm cleaning the connections, would the application of some di-electric(?) grease be worthwhile
You're thinking along a good line here, but dielectric grease isn't the right kind of gookum. "Dielectric" means a material that does not conduct electricity. In automotive practice, this term generally refers to silicone-based grease that are helpful in locations such as the rubber boots on both ends of the spark plug and coil wires (where the grease can prevent water getting in and providing an electrical path to ground along the side of the spark plug insulator or distributor cap tower, and also prevent the boot from "baking" onto where it's attached and tearing when you try to remove it) and the outside of battery cable terminals (where the grease can help slow down corrosion).
If you're trying to improve conductivity of potentially dirty connectors that are subject to vibration, what you're after is some sort of gookum that improves conductivity. The Imperial LeBaron of these substances (around here, we don't have Cadillacs!) is called Stabilant-22. A tiny bottle costs the better part of $100, and it is overkill for most automotive applications. Next best thing is probably Kopr-Shield. If you don't have time to wait for Kopr-Shield, then head over to Lowe's or Home Despot and pick up a small tube of Ox-Gard
which is meant primarily for working with corrosion-prone aluminum household wiring, but works well in automotive applications, too.
Quote: there's a cracked exhuast manifold
That can certainly contribute to stalling, with the degree of contribution depending on where the crack is. Your 1971 came equipped with a thermostatic air cleaner system that draws intake air across the surface of the central collector area of the exhaust manifold to heat the air up when the engine is at less than full operating temperature. If the crack is anywhere even near this collector area, exhaust will be drawn into the intake tract by the air cleaner ducting, and this "full time EGR" will certainly cause poor running, slow idle and stalling at idle.
Quote: the head, since 2 or 3 valves may be burnt to toastiness.
Well, shee-yoot! Even one burnt valve can cause stalling at idle...if you've got multiple extra-tasty-crispy valves, then it's scarcely reasonable to expect the car not to stall at idle. Seems to me you may want to hold off on alternator modifications or replacement for now, and focus on the more pressing mechanical issues with the car.
Quote: Just noticed that when it was stalling, i didn't hear the engine stutter, the ammeter just plunged way down to the discharge side and that was it.
I think you are maybe confusing cause and effect here. If you have the lights and other loads turned on (heater...? Wipers...?), then yes, when the engine stops running, the ammeter will point towards "D".
Quote: But if it is the Fuel system, what should I be looking for?
-Choke thermostat operation and adjustment
-Choke pull-off operation and adjustment
-Carburetor condition (throttle shaft bushings!), operation and adjustment
-Manifold heat control "heat riser" valve operation
-Thermostatic air cleaner system operation
-Vacuum hoses (cracked, missing, misrouted)
Plus the abovementioned impact of a cracked exhaust manifold on intake air.
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