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PostPosted: Wed May 17, 2006 10:11 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2005 10:35 pm
Posts: 665
Location: Spokane, Washington
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Quote:
didnt want it spooled up cruising down the highway
Understand that.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car


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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 6:23 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 8:20 pm
Posts: 1603
Location: Oxford, Georgia
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Quote:
Matt,
I saw on your blog that you are using a Megasquirt, I have one also. What distributor are you using?
Going to try and get it running with the stock unit first, but I've got a Lean Burn distributor that I will install as soon as I've established that the fuel side is working. Probably combine it with an MSD ignition.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair


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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 2:40 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2005 8:33 pm
Posts: 745
Location: Rolla, MO
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Quote:
Quote:
didnt want it spooled up cruising down the highway
Understand that.
Hmm.. I don't, care to explain, please? Not questioning the validity; just curious for the reason.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 3:39 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Mar 19, 2006 5:17 pm
Posts: 91
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a matter of preference, when cruising down the highway , dont need to boost, but when i get on it and i pass the lag point, which the noticable threashold on mine will really be about 2400 rpms i want that extra push...will also help on fuel economy...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 4:25 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2005 10:35 pm
Posts: 665
Location: Spokane, Washington
Car Model:
My bet is that it would be really hard to get a turbo to build boost with little or no load (without really choking the motor, that is). At the same time I bet it wouldn't be hard to size the turbine too small and have it make boost if you just tip into the throttle to say, climb a hill.

Boost is related to load, I can cruise at 2600 rpm at 10" of vacuum, and still have a turbo that makes 13 psi at that same rpm at full throttle.

What gear your in makes a difference as well. Fifth will spool a lot faster than first because the motor is under greater load.

BTW, this is in my FWD LeBaron, not a turbo slant.

Not agueing with your turbo selection, grthigpen, but I am beginning to believe that some of the "too small" turbo problems are as related to a small compressor as they are with a small turbine. As I understand it, a FWD Mopar .48 A/R turbine housing hits it's limits at about 270 hp on a 2.2/2.5. In theory, it would work (not the best maybe, but ok) on a 250 hp or less /6. I'm betting that some of the "too small" turbos out there are actually overheating the air with a "too small" compressor. That's my theory any way.

I have been attracted to turbos for sometime now. They give both the dual nature of a high powered, fun to drive, car while at the same time giving you efficiency if you stay out of the boost. This is on a moderate turbo motor of course. 450 cubes and 300 hp at 15 psi, but 225 cubes and 20 mpg at 15" of vacuum. The best of both worlds.

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 6:55 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Mar 19, 2006 5:17 pm
Posts: 91
Car Model:
well, since i have run turbos...i have experienced even the opposite...a car in neutral will spool up without any load....and run away quickly till the turbo chokes or the valves float....in my experience, anyway...it really is driven by the throttle position (the amount of air you are signalling you want in the engine)...i may get argument but have researched it, experienced it, and i would agree that its the compressor that is key to boost, based on trim, of course, but the turbine has to be big enought to handle the air volumne that your engine will pass based on cubic inch and pounds of pressure...example my engine will require 426 cfm at 5000 to create 8 pounds of boost. i am running a 390 cfm weber setup. and this is what i wanted. so based on that i could have run a T3T4 hybrid and accomplished this and spool quickly or run a T4T4 and get it at a higher spooling point. its really a matter of preference. Also the advantage of a T3 is that it will tuck under the intake...so i bow out with that...thanks for a good discussion GRT


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2006 9:50 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2005 10:35 pm
Posts: 665
Location: Spokane, Washington
Car Model:
Quote:
but the turbine has to be big enought to handle the air volumne that your engine will pass based on cubic inch and pounds of pressure...
I'll agree with you on that.
Quote:
example my engine will require 426 cfm at 5000 to create 8 pounds of boost
Is that exhaust flow? I've messed with the formulas to figure out compressor flow and engine requirements, but never exhaust. If that is what you have there, I'm curious to here how you came up with it.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 31, 2006 8:36 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2004 10:41 am
Posts: 131
Location: Saratoga Ca
Car Model:
Quote:
Quote:
Matt,
I saw on your blog that you are using a Megasquirt, I have one also. What distributor are you using?
Going to try and get it running with the stock unit first, but I've got a Lean Burn distributor that I will install as soon as I've established that the fuel side is working. Probably combine it with an MSD ignition.
I have a standard distributor and a lean burn also, but my ultimate goal is to set up a crank trigger using Fords EDIS. I will probabily make up a few extra trigger wheels and sensor mounts. The wheel will fit on cars that do not have any extra pullies on the balancer.

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1966 Signet
Turbo Slant Six


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 31, 2006 12:25 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2005 10:35 pm
Posts: 665
Location: Spokane, Washington
Car Model:
RobGt64,

Any progress?

Any more pics?

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car


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