Uh...that's wrong. I don't know what your cutoff year for "older style" is, but all the pre-1981ish slant-6 distributors have the "old style" hold-down plate, which has a long slot where the plate is bolted to the distributor, and a short slot where the plate is bolted to the engine block.
Ah, you are talking about the newer distributor hold-down arrangement, which uses a collar ring bolted to the underside of the distributor in place of the older hold-down plate, with a hold-down "claw" or "foot" a la V8 practice. Those first appeared in 1981 or so. I agree it's an easier system to work with, but there are still a lot of slant-6s out there with the hold-down plate, and for working with those, I surely wouldn't want to be without this particular wrench.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yargh...I thought I was very clearly describing what this wrench is for, but I will need to work on the clarity of my descriptions.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ordered one, thanks again.

This is funny. Good thing Mopar didn't use the circular clamp style (a la Bugs) as well or we'd be forever lost like some slanted Flying Dutchman.......

Wonder how functional cobbling up a bent piece of scrap and a screw type hose clamp would be?

Sorry, see what happens when a mind goes off the edge?

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Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

I just feel sorry for anyone who bought (or was thinking of) one of those taiwanese distributer wrenches, you know the ones which come in two peices for 'universal' work? I had made due with my suburban with it but its even MORE useless on a slant thats when I felt fortunate I could do without it at the time (I have the later style clamp, Yesss!)

lLater Clamps Rule! Eat your heart out you Early Clampers you ) (sorry forgot to take my 'pill' today

I just used a "long length" 7/16 open/box wrench, and bent the box end at 90*. Grabbed the open end with a pliers, and twist, to break the bolt loose. Now have a "T" welded to the open end (no more pliers).

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

From the photo, that wrench appears to be the same wrench that makes it so easy to loosen/tighten the bolt holding the small block distributor clamp. It also can be done with a wrench but this tool sure makes it a piece of cake. I've had my special wrench for probably 20 plus years now.

Same idea, but not the same wrench, for the \6 engine uses a unique 7/16" distributor hold-down bolt.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I can't tell you when they first were put on slants, but every old slant I have found has the "fork" hold-down, but the newer slants (Volares, Lebarons, Aspens, etc..) had the slotted collar thing. I keep a couple spare fork style holdowns in my parts pile to make the swap.

I do agree though, that tool looks the business and would come in handy for those unfortunate enough to have the collar type holdown.

I always did hate the plate with 2 slots in it.

If you choose to stick with that 2 slotted plate, Dans' find is great.

I trashed the plate on my dart when I got it.

Just go to the junk yard and look for the v-8 type hold down on your slAnt engines - Find one and pull it.

You also need to pull the round Plate to replace the 2 slotted ordeal.

If you do that do do not need this fabolus tool and you can adjust your timing until the vacum can hits the block or the frame!

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Surely not your description, but my reading too fast Dan. The wrench is definitely a good find. The roominess of trucks still rules.

A small block or big block Greg? And what of this rounded plate? Big blocks just have a "fork" hold down that clamps right in the distributer base (where it sets in the block). I may have one from my old 383 around at my folks place. I've always just used trial and error setting the plate when I've removed and recurved/rebuilt the distributer. An easier method (whether using a V8 hold down or the tool Dan recommended) is a good thing. I don't have the patience I used to (which was already almost non-existent).

When I was recurving my distributor, I got pretty fast at removing the distributor so I could sway springs............

So getting to the bottom bolt wasn't that hard with the distributor removal and anyway, once I got the bottom bolt and slot setup so that I had a good range of adjustment up top, I didn't have to fool with the bottom plate anymore anyway...............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Eric, Sorry for any confusion here, I meant Look for the v-8 Type Hold down, but look for it on the slant six, not a v-8.

That is where you will find the round plate that replaces the 2 slotted plate.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I was looking for something like this a few years ago...and couldn't find one. Thanks.

I always used a stubby 7/16" open end wrench to get at the bolt I can reach, but for the one on the underside, I would always pull the distributor...the right wrench sure could save a lot of time.

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'68 Dodge Dart 4dr Sedan

I always enjoy seeing forum posts from guys lwho like to cobble up stuff. Kinda like Charrlie, I made a wrench for the "underneath" bolt by getting a thin craftsman box end wrench from a pawn shop for 50 cents, cutting off the end and brazing it onto a narrow piece of 3/8 flat stock. Works great, even givne I have all that nice room in a truck compartment compared to you teeny space car guys! I feel for y'all, I don't know if I can even get my hand in there!
rock
'64d100