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What would you save off of this engine swap? ('80 225 vs. ')
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18647		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  Reed [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 9:58 pm ]
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Most of the vacuum mess is for the EGR vacuum amplifier. You can toss most of that stuff and still pass a sniffer test (I take it you don't need to pass a visual if you are willing to dump it all). PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE at least leave the catalytic and AIR pump functioning. We only get one ozone and it is disappearing fast. Any AIR pump from an 80s Mopar will fit and only cost about $10.
Author:  mrhite65 [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 10:06 pm ]
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The only vaccum lines you need would be to the distrbutor, PCV, and power brakes. Everything else can go! You don't even have to worry about lean burn ignition. Block off the EGR and the rest of the vac. lines on the carb. Just keep that other engine for a rainy day!
Here's what I did to my 82 D150.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/658846
Author:  Sam Powell [ Wed Jul 19, 2006 5:02 am ]
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Thanks for the link, and that's a sweet truck. I hail from Kansas MANY years ago. Nice to hear from a Kansan here.
Sam
Author:  stickylifter [ Wed Jul 19, 2006 6:31 am ]
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What do you think about replacing the front and rear main seals while I have the pan off? It looks like I have to pull the crank to do that... what do you think?
Author:  slantvaliant [ Wed Jul 19, 2006 6:49 am ]
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Seals and gaskets, at least. And while you're doing that ...

Beware of mission creep!
Author:  stickylifter [ Wed Jul 19, 2006 7:42 am ]
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Quote:
Seals and gaskets, at least. And while you're doing that ...

Beware of mission creep!
HEH HEH HEH! Oh, man, you hit the nail on the head. This is spiraling out of control. I don't know when to say quit.

Seriously, those seals are probably the old rope type, will they expand and come back to like after I start driving it again? Kinda like cork seals? Or am I fooling myself here?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Jul 19, 2006 8:13 am ]
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Quote:
Seriously, those seals are probably the old rope type, will they expand and come back to like after I start driving it again? Kinda like cork seals? Or am I fooling myself here?
The only rope-type seal is the rear main. If it's leaky now, it will only get leakier. If it's dry now, it probably won't start leaking for awhile. Take a careful look round the engine and if you identify any significant leaks, it's probably going to be easier to fix them with the engine out of the vehicle!
Author:  74W100/6 [ Wed Jul 19, 2006 10:29 am ]
Post subject:  Rear main
I did a rear main in my W100 yesterday, it took about 4 hours. All i did was jack up the passenger side of the motor. Pull the oil pan and then pull the rear main seals. I didnt remove the crank either, what i did was i took a 3" drywall type screw and twisted it into the upper main seal slowly, when i felt resistence i backed it off a 1/4 turn then pulled the screw down as someone else turned the motor over.
Author:  stickylifter [ Wed Jul 19, 2006 2:39 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Rear main
Quote:
I did a rear main in my W100 yesterday, it took about 4 hours. All i did was jack up the passenger side of the motor. Pull the oil pan and then pull the rear main seals. I didnt remove the crank either, what i did was i took a 3" drywall type screw and twisted it into the upper main seal slowly, when i felt resistence i backed it off a 1/4 turn then pulled the screw down as someone else turned the motor over.
Don't keep me in suspense, man! How'd you get the top seal back in?
Author:  CStryker [ Wed Jul 19, 2006 3:28 pm ]
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If you're using the new rubber type, it should slide right in there w/o too much trouble. Just put some light oil on it first.
Author:  stickylifter [ Wed Jul 19, 2006 9:04 pm ]
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Quote:
If you're using the new rubber type, it should slide right in there w/o too much trouble. Just put some light oil on it first.
Thanks for the info, you guys just saved me a ton of headaches. I was thinking I'd have to loosen up the crank. !@#%&!

I might have found a 2 barrel intake at a junkyard, I have to go look tomorrow. I can't believe how hard it was to find a junkyard that even know what a slant six was!?! Most of them only go back 10 years! This is Detroit fer cryin out loud!?!

BTW, does anyone know if you can recurve the point-less distributor from the '80? From reading posts i gather that the curve on it is pretty poor. I guess I could just open it up and look for the weights, but maybe you can give me some more tips. Can I just go buy a little Pertronics dohickey and slap it in a points dizzy and be happpier? Enquiring minds want to know.

Thanks again!
Author:  Avenger2040 [ Fri Jul 21, 2006 8:51 pm ]
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Wich Slant got the better head? my 71 is losing a lot of compression, looks like a cracked head. I really think I will need a new head, so is there any difference between heads in years? (compression, etc)
Author:  stickylifter [ Sat Jul 22, 2006 5:41 am ]
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I was searching around on the site here and I do recall seeing a chart that laid out the differences through the years. As I recall, Dodge redesigned the combustion chamber sometime in the late 60s/early 70s. The cams got progressively better from 60s to 70s as well.

It sounds like maybe your rings are worn and that's why you're loosing compression. If you have a cracked head, you may want to get another later model head because in '72 Dodge started using hardened valves for use with unleaded gas.

That's my two cents. Guys?
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