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| Author: | Al T [ Sun Nov 19, 2006 11:36 am ] |
| Post subject: | Racetech |
Cars, other than what I've got on my web site and in my profile here and previous comments, I'm not sure what more I can add. Their service to me has been exemplary. If you do your homework, follow their clearly written instructions and don't immediately blame their product when things don't go smoothly, they'll give you great advice and work with you. The guys have told me that all too frequently, they've had people trash they're system only to discover that somebody tried saving a few pennies by taking a shortcut, using inferior products, dirty fuel, incorrect wiring, etc. Their product is on 1000's of vehicles in a wide variety of applications over the last 10 years . . . they're done things right. They started building their own systems for their drag racing hobby and started up a business to satisfy all the requests. They're there to help . . . just witness all the free "How to" stuff on their site. Its been developed based upon user inquiries. My only problems with the equipment was ME . . . when I incorrectly wired something and fried a componant on the controller, . . . burnt a fuse when an injector harness dropped onto the exhaust manifold. Matt, the crank trigger sensor is quit easy to do. It was probably the LEAST tricky part of the project. I used the cast damper off an 80's slant in a truck. Drill 4 1/8" dia holes and epoxy in 4 little magnets. Fab up a small bracket to hold the sensor and you're done. |
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| Author: | Matt Cramer [ Sun Nov 19, 2006 5:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Interesting - I've sometimes contemplated running a crank triggered ignition on my Dart, so could you tell me more about that? Did you use a lathe to scribe a line like in SDS's directions, or use some other method? Any particular reason you went with an '80s era damper? SDS's directions looked a little daunting, as I don't have a lathe like what they used in their instructions, and I'd probably have to resort to more jury rigged methods to find the locations to place the magnets. |
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| Author: | Al T [ Mon Nov 20, 2006 6:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Crank Trigger |
Matt I think I just drew it out on a paper template matched to the damper OD, cut out the center for hub clearance and marked the spots to drill. I've had no problems with pickup. I went with the 80's damper because its a 2 sheave cast unit with the bolt holes in front for the PS pump sheave. I now bolt my blower drive pulley in place of the PS sheave. I drive the water pump and alt off the inner sheave which was originally designated for AC. I now run the PS off the slot which formerly drove the alt & water pump. The bottom line is "take care to do it right"! |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 5:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hi Al, Thanks for sharing here. I know your web site is pretty complete, but it is nice to see your contributions here as well. Would you be willing to share more specifics about what you did wrong on the wiring? That kind of information can be very helpful, and offers good guidance for those of us still working through, or intending to work through the process. Thanks! Sam |
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| Author: | Al T [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Fried bits . . . but not really helpful |
I really forget what I burnt and why . . . but I seem to recall it had to do with wiring my fan controls. |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 7:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Do you remember how it behaved? Did it just fail to run? Did you send the ECM back to the manufacturers? Was repair done in a reasonable amount of time? Did they charge you for the repair? I hate to bug you about these things, but this kind of information can be useful to people considering a purchase, and also help diagnose potential future failures. Thanks. Sam |
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| Author: | Matt Cramer [ Fri Nov 24, 2006 5:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks, Al! That's quite a clever way to get those holes located. |
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| Author: | Al T [ Sat Nov 25, 2006 4:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | SDS Sytem and Racetech |
Quote: Do you remember how it behaved? Did it just fail to run?
The fan controls didn't seem to be working properly.
Quote: Did you send the ECM back to the manufacturers? Was repair done in a reasonable amount of time? Did they charge you for the repair?
I took the ECM and dropped in at their shop. They fixed it while I was there in about 30 min. While there, they upgraded me to their latest release of software. They said, "This one's on the house!"I probably sound like I own a part of the business (I don't) because I promote them but they have a great product and genuinely give great service. This is their only product . . . its got to sell or they don't eat . . . and being a small player in a world of choice in a "word of mouth" industry . . . you've got to do it right or you go down pretty quick. |
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| Author: | JohnnyDees [ Thu Dec 07, 2006 3:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I am also collecting parts for the 3.8 GM conversion. Have you ever contacted Bob D. to talk to him? He has had this system working since 2002 and he says it works great even with the turbo he now has. |
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| Author: | CARS [ Fri Dec 08, 2006 9:27 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: I am also collecting parts for the 3.8 GM conversion. Have you ever contacted Bob D. to talk to him? He has had this system working since 2002 and he says it works great even with the turbo he now has.
No I didn't contact anyone. I was just throwing the subject out there and hoping to hear who has done it, who regrets doing it, what new ideas have developed since the article was written, so on and so forth.Why hasn't Bob chimed in? |
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