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cold valve lash?
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21069		 Page 2 of 3
Author:  Ron Parker [ Tue Dec 12, 2006 4:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
Dans right do it right. On a stock engine i like to get up to proper temp say 180 degrees and pul the valve cover and adjust them with the engine not running. I could get a better read by turning the engine over until the valve unloaded . But that is just another choice. Thanks Ron Parker :D








It Aint Over Until I Win
Author:  argentina-slantsixer [ Tue Dec 12, 2006 4:57 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Dans right do it right. On a stock engine i like to get up to proper temp say 180 degrees and pul the valve cover and adjust them with the engine not running. I could get a better read by turning the engine over until the valve unloaded . But that is just another choice. Thanks Ron Parker :D
It Aint Over Until I Win
that's my way, I pre set cold, then run the engine, then kill it while hot, and using he crank bold I turn it over and check the lash with the engine hot but still. No point in doing it running with solid lifters IMHO. I check engine running with no valve cover after setting them hot with the vacuum gauge just to se if they're even, then kill it again and pop the valve cover.
Author:  slantzilla [ Fri Dec 15, 2006 7:45 am ]
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I guess this is one of those things we will have to agree to disagree on. :D

I can guarantee you that I can set the valves on an engine and you will not be able to tell me if they were set hot or cold. :shock:
Author:  argentina-slantsixer [ Fri Dec 15, 2006 9:26 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I guess this is one of those things we will have to agree to disagree on. :D

I can guarantee you that I can set the valves on an engine and you will not be able to tell me if they were set hot or cold. :shock:
I'm sure it will be that way. I too would challenge any "righteous procedure advocate" :wink: to distinguish between how's valves have been lashed in any way you can think of (engine off, on, hot, cold, running, idling, valve cover off, on, using vacuum gauge, measuring cyl pressure, etc)

Anyway is nice to have a little voice constantly reminding ourselves of "da rules" on lash, filters, bolt patterns, heat risers, etc. :roll: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I can live with "non factory specs" as long as they mean either significant improvement on final result and/or severe time cutting in servicing time (at least achieveing the same results) and actually I think that most FSM have "some" BS on them... meaning... they advice some procedures and ways to do some things that you know for sure it can't be done that way in any facility spitting out more than 2 cars per year.
Author:  sandy in BC [ Fri Dec 15, 2006 9:56 am ]
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My personal belief is that yer average amateur will have more accurate results setting lash with a non running engine than trying the gauge munching, oil splashing "hot and running " method.

I have set lash on " hot and running" 5000 HP marine deisels and 1906 Easthope one lungers...and oh yeah slants. Any method that leaves you with sufficient clearance and a smooth running engine is valid.

Lower the idle to 650 RPM and turn up the stereo (pronounced "steer eeee Oh") to Stun. Select "Stroll On" by the YARDBIRDS and sychronize the lifter chatter to the high Hat Cymball in the RaveUp portion of the track. Lower the volume to Loud , raise the idle to 750...replace V/v cover while running.....

Part 2: Drive 2 blocks to highway. Drop clutch at 2345 RPM....mash pedal to floor. Check to see if rubber marks on road are any longer than the last 9 times.

Keep in mind these vehicles were assembled in Four/Four time.


The "right way" is not always the easiest, most precise or even sensible way....thats why Chryco went to hydraulic lifters.....
Author:  slantvaliant [ Fri Dec 15, 2006 11:15 am ]
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Oh, boy! Another hot-button issue!
Poly vs rubber.
Ammeter vs voltmeter.
Holley vs Carter
100 mm BC rims on 4" BC cars.
Now, hot vs cold lash.
Not quite in the same league, but it does generate some good discussion.

BTW, I set them hot and running. If nothing else, it's much more entertaining. :wink:
Author:  ROADRUNNER7169 [ Fri Dec 15, 2006 11:19 am ]
Post subject: 
I would have to agree with slantsixdan & 70valiant' if you think about it if you are putting an engine together (and want it to actually run decent) you would check all your clearances before your final assembly (to the factory specs.) why should your valve lash be any differant
Author:  gmader [ Fri Dec 15, 2006 11:21 am ]
Post subject: 
Sandy, your description made soda shoot out of my nose at work!

I would think that several Rush songs would work equally well.

Greg
Author:  emsvitil [ Fri Dec 15, 2006 11:30 am ]
Post subject:  a bit of both methods.........
Do this.

1. Set your valves hot and running to the way you like.

2. Shut down engine and let sit overnight.

3. Check each and every valve cold with the engine off and record value for every valve; note the temperature.


When you need to adjust the valves check that they equal what they measured from step 3 above (same temp and each and every valve)
Author:  slantvaliant [ Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:28 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Select "Stroll On" by the YARDBIRDS and sychronize the lifter chatter to the high Hat Cymball in the RaveUp portion of the track.
Try Flatt and Scruggs "Foggy Mountain Breakdown".
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0f7ayVG ... ed&search=
Author:  70valiant [ Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:44 pm ]
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My mother always says if you are going to do a job do it right the first time. She also said there are many ways to do something but only one correct way. She should know she has NEVER been wrong, just ask her.
But seriously, our engines are very durable and the technology is ancient compared to todays vehicles. That being said a couple of thousandths probably will not hurt anything either way. I have adjusted my valves cold, hot and, hot and running I prefer the results I get hot and running and coincidently that is what the FSM recommends.
Author:  lindross [ Thu May 24, 2007 8:10 am ]
Post subject: 
Sorry to drudge up an old topic, but I use the search feature before makin irrelevant posts. :D

This was relevant to us as we just rebuilt our 225 and have been watching it during it's break in.

We set our valves cold to get the ball park setting close with the motor off. Run the motor up to temperature with a leisurely drive around town. Brought it back in hot and removed the valve cover and adjusted with the motor off. They were all tighter by a couple thousandths and had to be backed off to the .010" on intake and .020" on exhaust.
Author:  Pat Dawson [ Thu May 24, 2007 11:18 am ]
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Setting the valves hot and running is FUN. At 500 rpm there isn't much oil splashing going on, unlike my 900 rpm idle, comp cam 280, Harland-Sharp adjustable rocker, high-volume oil pump fed Ford 460 - now that's a mess you have to cut out an old valve cover for.

My 225 stock slant gets comments like - Is that thing running? It was never that quiet when I had one. Where's the ticking sound?

Run the pee out of it for a few miles, whip off the valve cover, get in sync with a little 1/4" drive socket, feeler gauge, and the bouncing rocker arm, and get it right! JMHO.
Author:  HyperValiant [ Thu May 24, 2007 6:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
I set my valve lash with the engine hot and running partly because thats the FSM procedure but mainly because I have found it easier and my results more accurate.
I also use a vacumm guage while setting the valves and prefer the extended version of Freebird by Lynynrd Skynyrd to get the setting just right.
HyperValiant
Author:  Ron Parker [ Thu May 24, 2007 7:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
A couple of ice cold buds seem to help to . Just my experence setting the vavle lash while running. Thanks Ron Parker :D











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