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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2006 7:21 pm 
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Guru
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
I would be interested in one.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2006 6:57 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2003 6:55 pm
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Location: Strasburg, VA
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I would be interested in at least one, maybe two.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 7:55 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2003 7:16 am
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Location: St Louis MO
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Add me to the list of interested in at least one, possibly two if the price is good.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 4:18 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 06, 2003 5:53 am
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Location: Crestline, CA
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Where are we at on this? Do you you have a price or possible timeline yet?

Thanks,

Greg


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 10:33 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 11:41 pm
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I'd be interested too.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:26 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
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Location: Everett, WA
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So would I, depending on price of course.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 11:59 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Aug 20, 2005 7:43 pm
Posts: 153
Location: Groton, CT
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i'm in...
price and timeline?

_________________
My Dart
GO VOLS!
It's not rocket science, we're just splitting atoms.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 5:11 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 9:45 am
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Location: NC
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I have requested pricing on 20 units. They were closed last week so hopefully I will hear something this week.

I will post as soon as I know.

Tom

_________________
Nitrous cars are like old men on Viagra. Once the bottle is empty they are useless.
FJD


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 4:06 am 
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Location: NC
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OK. For an order of 20 units were are looking at a price of $130 per unit.

If we get more than 20 the price may come down slightly.

The above price includes everything describe in the first post.

Please send me an email or PM and let me know if you are in and the qty you want. drakecoatings@aol.com

Once I know a total I can arrange down payment and place the order.


I know you can get rail in the range of $80-90 for something similar but from my experience that does not include the locking slot to hold the injector in place or the AN fittings on both ends.

Tom Drake

_________________
Nitrous cars are like old men on Viagra. Once the bottle is empty they are useless.
FJD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 7:33 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
Posts: 1847
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model: '23 T-bucket
Tom.....I'm in for one, please. Let me know how this works out. I suppose if there's not enough takers, it'll die on the vine.

Roger


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 9:09 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 06, 2003 5:53 am
Posts: 750
Location: Crestline, CA
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Before I say yes or no, I do need to sort out how the fuel pressure regulator would work. Would this regulatorwork?

Where would you put the regulator on this sort of rail? I suspect it would be after the fuel pump, but before the rail. In that case, where would the return line to the tank go?

thanks,

Greg


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 4:51 am 
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Location: Oxford, Georgia
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Quote:
Before I say yes or no, I do need to sort out how the fuel pressure regulator would work. Would this regulatorwork?

Where would you put the regulator on this sort of rail? I suspect it would be after the fuel pump, but before the rail. In that case, where would the return line to the tank go?

thanks,

Greg
If I were plumbing up a rail like that, I would run a hose from one end to the fuel pump, and one from the other end to a free-standing regulator, which then connects to the return line. That's the only way to plumb up the MSD (Bosch) regulator shown in your link; I'm using that particular regulator on my Dart.

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'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 7:43 am 
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It has been my experience and understanding that the pressure regulator should always go after the injectors/rail otherwise you are only regulating the pressure between the pump and regulator.

I am sure with the correct adpater you could make any regulator work. It is very easy to mount the reg. to the firewall and run a short length of hose from the end of the rail to the reg. instead of trying to mount the regulator directly to the rail.


I will take a picture of both the Simca and Rampage set-up for you to see how we did it.


Tom

_________________
Nitrous cars are like old men on Viagra. Once the bottle is empty they are useless.
FJD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 9:39 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
Posts: 1847
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model: '23 T-bucket
The accepted proper method for plumbing a regulator is after, or downstream of the injectors. If one were to plumb a return-type regulator in front of the injectors, then each time an injector fires, it would affect the fuel pressure of the next in line. By plumbing the regulator after the injectors, the pressure remains constant in the rail because it's regulated after the demand of the injectors.

Roger


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:14 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 06, 2003 5:53 am
Posts: 750
Location: Crestline, CA
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Hi all,

To help Tom get this project going, those who are interested should speak up, and contact him.

Thanks,

Greg


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