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New alternator but which one?
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21264		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  slantfin [ Sat Jan 13, 2007 10:25 am ]
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This is why I only drive cars without computers. [url]http:www.highrock.com/personal/WWJD/[/url]. Maybe this will work[/url]
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Jan 31, 2007 8:37 pm ]
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Quote:
OK, I wasn't sure about why God would drive a Fury
But he does. It says so right in the bible:

He drove them out in his Fury.
Author:  bthieson [ Tue Jul 06, 2010 11:58 am ]
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I couldn't see that anyone answered the initial post in the thread. I'm also looking at those alternators, and wondering if they would work with my car.
Author:  slantfin [ Tue Jul 06, 2010 1:32 pm ]
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No, but we did decide what car God would drive.
Author:  69a100 [ Tue Jul 06, 2010 3:21 pm ]
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Quote:
what about an electronic voltage regulator?
Use one if you have elec. Ignig. Read here, http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Elec ... arging.htm tells you to use one. Hey, you even get the diagram to wire it. I used a JY alternator and Reg of a 74 dart on my A100. I grabbed alt., reg., and all wiring that I could for mine! 60 someodd amps vs. the 32 that I had is more than enough. I couldn't be happier using the newer Regs. I for the life of me can't understand why anybody wants to use those crappy little black boxes they call regulators, old or new style!
Hey Dan, FWIW- this could also go into electrical couldn't it?
Author:  Sam Powell [ Tue Jul 06, 2010 7:42 pm ]
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I have a GM one wire alternator on my Dart, and it works like a champ. I fabbed a bracket, but I think someone makes an adapter for it. The GM seems to put out higher voltage at idle. You must put a small load on the voltage regulator feed which is simply a wire from your 12 volt switched block to one of the taps on the alternator. I just put a standard relay coil in the line. This is what I was told to do. Don't know if it is gospel. (More bible references) If any one is interested, I can describe the circuit. Sorry, I don't have the technology to post a diagram. But I can tell you where each wire runs.

Sam
Author:  bthieson [ Wed Jul 07, 2010 8:07 am ]
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Quote:
I have a GM one wire alternator on my Dart, and it works like a champ. I fabbed a bracket, but I think someone makes an adapter for it. The GM seems to put out higher voltage at idle. You must put a small load on the voltage regulator feed which is simply a wire from your 12 volt switched block to one of the taps on the alternator. I just put a standard relay coil in the line. This is what I was told to do. Don't know if it is gospel. (More bible references) If any one is interested, I can describe the circuit. Sorry, I don't have the technology to post a diagram. But I can tell you where each wire runs.

Sam
But, if you had http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/mopar.html I thought you wouldn't need a bracket change??
Author:  Pierre [ Wed Jul 07, 2010 10:11 pm ]
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But, if you had http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/mopar.html I thought you wouldn't need a bracket change??
Depends on which one on that page your talking about. I've actually used all of those types of alternators (except the smaller GM one) at one point or another.

The ones in the original style cases are physically direct bolt-ons. The 170a Nippondenso type alternator will fit on the passenger side if you take off ~1/8" from the bottom bracket on the car. Contradictory to what powermaster says, either of the GM alternators will bolt on to our slant six - I suspect their documentation was meant only for v8's.

The best bang for the buck with least amount of headache is the nippondenso unit, even a stock replacement instead of powermaster. I don't think those come in one wire... the case is probably too small to hold a regulator internally. I would not bother with the stock case higher output models - their idle output will suffer.

Sam, the GM alternator you have isn't a true one wire. It sounds like an internally regulated unit but one that still requires a "sense" wire so you can have the alternator regulate voltage at that specific point of the system. A true one wire requires one, and only one main wire from alternator to Batt+.

For most typical electrical systems on our cars (or even small power draw upgrades such as electric pumps, efi, small electric fans, moderate lights) the nippondenso is a good choice. If you want one wire and more stable output (using an external thermally compensated regulator can lead to over a volt's worth of difference between hot and cold) the smaller GM units are good. If you need mondo idle output the bigger GM alternators are awesome.

Few words of caution - one wire models may require you to blip the throttle to start charging. If idle falls below a certain point their output will be zero. If you raise the idle to 7-800 it shouldn't be an issue, especially with the right pulley. For the large GM alts, if you will be drawing significantly from them you will have trouble with them on the passenger side. You will need to get the belt ultra-tight, or ideally drive it with a 1/2" instead of stock 3/8" (stock AC pulley) or double belts. Better yet a serpentine as they were really designed for. I have mine mounted where the PS pump would have been stock. I will be moving to a serpentine pulley setup there as well. More to come, may have stumbled across an easy(ier) to do serpentine setup.

Sam you are probably talking about this bracket. Handy to put the smaller GM alternators on our stock passenger side location. If you are using the stock top arm, you may need a GM alternator with the bolt holes at 6 and 12. They are available that way.

Sorry for the info overload - I'm a bit of an alternator snob and have a decent amount of experience with various models. Don't limit yourself to powermaster - Check these guys out.
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