Slant Six Forum :: what can i remove from my 74 slant? Please help

Ok,
i read that post, do i need to keep the EGR system then, it seems it is recommended to get rid of it, i am unsure exactly what is needed to bypass it.

I see the thing on the air cleaner, the hoses were already disconnected from it.

am replacing the carb with a new one

putting on a chrome valve cover

I would like to replace the breather with one that does not connect to the air cleaner

Can anyone recommend a manifold paint that will not burn off?

does anyone know which numbers on the ID plate tell you the original paint code?

does anyone know which numbers on the ID plate tell you the original paint code? My car was originally gold, but Chrysler had several gold colors then. I started to paint the engine bay Y1 Yellow but i think i may go with the original color. Sorry, did not mean to go off track. Back to the engine bay!

fuel line, cut off and flare the metal line on the carb side of the fuel pump about 6-12 inches past the pump, then run a 5/16ths rubber line to your fuel filter then from that to the carb

the starter regulator is more or less in the right general area for your year, it mounts on the drivers side fender wall near the battery, not on the firewall, that must be for different years or models..

I just need to get a grommet to hold the pcv in (anyone know where to get it, the chrome cover has a 1 1/4" hole, and the grommet that came off the factory was a bit smaller.)

When i start it, it just runs about 2000-2500 rpm's

Even after it heats up, it still will not kick down.

I dont have a problem ordering the choke conversion or even a better quality valve cover, i only ordered the cheap one because i could not find anything better

The car would catch an idle perfectly before i took the stuff off, but it did still have the hesitation when i would rev it.

i need you to be a bit more descriptive

The charcoal cannister is still hooked up, i hooked it up to the bottom of the carb, facing toward the passenger side, near the center of the carb

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sun Jun 24, 2007 2:00 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: ok, thanks
Quote: Ok, i read that post, do i need to keep the EGR system then, it seems it is recommended to get rid of it, i am unsure exactly what is needed to bypass it. You'll be best off not removing or attempting to rework or bypass anything until you have those three books in hand. But, to delete the EGR system, you remove the hockey puck, remove all the vacuum hoses connecting to it, remove the cylindrical device attached aft of the hockey puck and all wiring connected to it, plug the nipple on the carburetor where the line used to attach that ran to the hockey puck, plug the nipple on the intake manifold where the line used to attach that ran to the hockey puck, and if you want to be clean and neat about it, replace the EGR valve with a blockoff plate. Quote: I see the thing on the air cleaner, the hoses were already disconnected from it. Careful here. There are a few different "things on the air cleaner". Some of them are beneficial and should stay hooked up. Quote: am replacing the carb with a new one Careful here. New carburetors are great, but parts store "remanufactured" ones are trash. Quote: putting on a chrome valve cover If you're thinking of one of the ones off eBay, that's a poor idea; they're junk and lack the necessary baffles. Quote: I would like to replace the breather with one that does not connect to the air cleaner Why? It's best to use the correct ducted type, and doing so will keep your engine cleaner. Quote: Can anyone recommend a manifold paint that will not burn off? For which manifold, intake or exhaust? Quote: does anyone know which numbers on the ID plate tell you the original paint code? Post a clear, sharp, close-up picture of the fender tag(s) located on the driver's side inner fender, and we'll decode your car's equipment and specs for you.

Author:	DusterIdiot [ Sun Jun 24, 2007 2:36 pm ]
Post subject:	Line 2
Quote: does anyone know which numbers on the ID plate tell you the original paint code? My car was originally gold, but Chrysler had several gold colors then. I started to paint the engine bay Y1 Yellow but i think i may go with the original color. Sorry, did not mean to go off track. Back to the engine bay! You just need to tell us what's on line 2 (line 1 is the bottom line- which has your VIN and engine tranny codes, line 2 is the next one up), this has your paint and trim codes on it, everything above that is your equipment 'options')... -D.Idiot

Author:	Andy's GT [ Sun Jun 24, 2007 6:35 pm ]
Post subject:
heres my two cents that i think no one mentioned so far: 1. fuel line, cut off and flare the metal line on the carb side of the fuel pump about 6-12 inches past the pump, then run a 5/16ths rubber line to your fuel filter then from that to the carb 2. i have a 67 dart gt, and have a parts 73 dart, the starter regulator is more or less in the right general area for your year, it mounts on the drivers side fender wall near the battery, not on the firewall, that must be for different years or models..

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sun Jun 24, 2007 7:01 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: fuel line, cut off and flare the metal line on the carb side of the fuel pump about 6-12 inches past the pump, then run a 5/16ths rubber line to your fuel filter then from that to the carb Kinda, but not quite. The right way to do this is covered here Quote: the starter regulator is more or less in the right general area for your year, it mounts on the drivers side fender wall near the battery, not on the firewall, that must be for different years or models.. There is no starter "regulator", think you are talking about the starter relay, which does indeed mount on the driver's side inner fender on '67-up A-bodies.

Author:	RDJ [ Sun Jun 24, 2007 10:09 pm ]
Post subject:
I painted my exhaust manifold with VHT header paint. I baked in the oven at something like 250 degrees, then 400, then went over it with a torch with mapp gas. It hasn't burned off in a couple of months. My wife was a little miffed when she came home though.

Slant Six Forum https://www.slantsix.org/forum/

what can i remove from my 74 slant? Please help https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23713	Page 2 of 3

Author:	Andy's GT [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:38 am ]
Post subject:
dan, whats wrong with using the metal line thats already there (although maybe shorter then what i suggested)instead of finding a brass fitting? also on that link, someone mentioned that you would get failed for that drag racing, is there a way to do this that wouldnt be? im no where near that point yet, but someday hope to be, and yeah, of course, relay, not regulator, just absent minded... thanks

Author:	redfivexw [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 6:13 pm ]
Post subject:	Ok, i got a lot done, need more help
Ok guys, thanks for the help so far. I got most everything in today. I replaced the carb, the hoses, the valve cover. I removed the hockey puck and assorted stuff connected to it. I just need to get a grommet to hold the pcv in (anyone know where to get it, the chrome cover has a 1 1/4" hole, and the grommet that came off the factory was a bit smaller.) Here are some photos, if you guys can take a look at my carb, and make sure everything that is plugged up is, and that i did it right, i would appreciate it. One thing, the car does not kick down and idle slow anymore. When i start it, it just runs about 2000-2500 rpm's constantly. Even after it heats up, it still will not kick down. Anyone know perhaps what i need to do to get that fixed? Also there is a slight hesitation when i give the car gas (at idle), when i press the pedal, it gives a little hesitation before the car will rev. Ok, here are the photos: I dont know if these things on the air cleaner are supposed to be hooked up to anything Lastly, here is my fender tag, if someone can decode it for me i would be grateful. thanks!

Author:	redfivexw [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 6:19 pm ]
Post subject:	Ps
PS- the carb has some slight surface rust on it because i bought it last year and it has been sitting for a while waiting for me to install it! I am sorry i did not do the fuel line mod like slantsixdan suggested, i may do it at a later date, i am just trying to get a little done at a time here! The car was ALL original when i bought it, it ran good but all the belts and hoses were dried out, cracked, ancient looking. The car only has 62K miles on it, though. Thanks again, for any and all help!

Author:	redfivexw [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 6:20 pm ]
Post subject:	Pps
Oh yeah, can i disconnect this thing now? I still dont know what it is!

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 8:03 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Ok, i got a lot done, need more help
Quote: I just need to get a grommet to hold the pcv in (anyone know where to get it, the chrome cover has a 1 1/4" hole, and the grommet that came off the factory was a bit smaller.) Those Chinese chrome valve covers have no baffles, so just plopping in the PCV valve will cause your engine to suck oil into the intake tract, fouling the spark plugs and causing exhaust smoke. Obtain a Stant 10078, Wix 42993, NAPA 2993, or AC-Delco 12C26 breather cap: You'll also need the correct grommet for this breather cap, which is a Dorman 42067, NAPA Balkamp 630-1052 or 630-1074. These are the crankcase breather cap and grommet for an '84 Buick Electra Estate Wagon with 5.0 litre/307 CID V8. Put the grommet in the cover, and push the breather into the grommet. This breather has an internal filter and a 1" top hole, so just snap a standard Chrysler PCV valve grommet into the top hole and a standard Chrysler PCV valve into the grommet, and you're good to go. Quote: When i start it, it just runs about 2000-2500 rpm's That's way too high; the fast idle speed should be about 1400 to 1500 RPM. Quote: Even after it heats up, it still will not kick down. You've removed, for some reason, the electric choke controller, which means your choke is going to stay on far longer than it should, which means your engine will idle high, have low power, and waste a lot of gas. Recommend you put on one of the Electric choke kits . Quote: Put the right oil cap on the new valve cover -- it will have a tube the same size as the one on the air cleaner. Connect the two with a length of 5/8" crankcase ventilation hose. Quote: Take that cap off the large metal fitting at the top of the carb, that's your float bowl vent; blocking it is hurting your driveability and mileage. That hose fitting should be connected to the appropriate "BOWL" or "CARB" port on the charcoal canister located at the right front corner of your engine bay. If for some reason you have disabled or removed the charcoal canister (which is not a good idea), then leave this hose fitting open to vent and find a safe way to vent your gas tank in the absence of the canister. Also remove the cap from the smaller diameter fitting just above the carb mounting nut/stud and connect this nipple to the inlet of the air cleaner's thermostat (you'll find the thermostat's two nipples on the underside of the air cleaner body). Connect the outlet of the air cleaner thermostat to the device shown in this next photo: Fender tag decode follows: E24: 225 cubic inch 1bbl slant-6 engine D34: A904 Torqueflite 3-speed automatic transmission LH23: Dart Custom (high trim line) 2-door hardtop C: 225 cubic inch slant-6 engine 4: 1974 model year F: Built at Newark, Delaware 209286: Vehicle serial number JY6: Paint code, Gold Polychromatic (metallic), PPG #2509 E2Y3: Interior trim code: Economy (low line), vinyl bench, light gold 000: Full door trim panel 429: Build date, 4/29/74 062854: Vehicle order number V1X: Black vinyl top U: Build to USA market specifications G52: Unknown glass/mirror code, probably to do with sideview mirror(s). What type has the car got on the left/right? J52: Inside hood release L31: Fendertop turn signal indicators M21: Roof drip rail mouldings M25: Sill mouldings M38: Deck lid finish mouldings N99: Unknown engine accessory code, could be an emissions or noise-reduction package. V5X: Black protective body side mouldings 22: 22 inch wide radiator

Author:	DusterIdiot [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:03 pm ]
Post subject:	G52
G52 is a very common easy option on late A-bodies.... Left Hand Outside Chrome Coventional mirror AKA the driver's side remote flat backed mirror -D.idiot

Author:	redfivexw [ Tue Jun 26, 2007 3:41 am ]
Post subject:	ok, almost done then
Thanks Dan, i just have a few more questions, i think i am almost done. I dont have a problem ordering the choke conversion or even a better quality valve cover, i only ordered the cheap one because i could not find anything better (i am new to mopar, this is my first). Below are two photos, the first is a photo of the stuff i removed from the engine, is one of them the choke controller? The car would catch an idle perfectly before i took the stuff off, but it did still have the hesitation when i would rev it. The second is a photo of the original carb, i plugged all the lines that were originally plugged. You are saying to remove some plugs that were already installed, but i need you to be a bit more descriptive, if by the large cap you mean the cap on the top, facing to the right i got it. There is another line that attaches to the carb with a fitting just to the right of that, that was originally open with a small piece of line on it, i capped that. The charcoal cannister is still hooked up, i hooked it up to the bottom of the carb, facing toward the passenger side, near the center of the carb (that is where it was originally). What should i change, move?

Author:	redfivexw [ Tue Jun 26, 2007 3:56 am ]
Post subject:	i found the choke controller
Ok, i am dumb. The little white gizmo in the first picture above in the upper right corner is the choke control, it attached to the lever that goes to the car on the little nipple. But it was attached to all the other "hockey puck" stuff so i pulled it. can i just plug that back into the harness and attach it to the nipple and be done? Do i have to put any of the other pieces back?

Author:	redfivexw [ Tue Jun 26, 2007 4:23 am ]
Post subject:	one more photo
Ok, the "carb" connection was not hooked up on the cannister when i bought the car. It is open. Is this the one that you want on the large connector on the front of the carb? Are the other two right ?

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Author:	SlantSixDan [ Tue Jun 26, 2007 10:11 am ]
Post subject:	Re: ok, almost done then
Quote: Thanks Dan You're welcome. You should thank DusterIdiot, too; he decoded your G52 sideview mirror. Quote: I dont have a problem ordering the choke conversion or even a better quality valve cover, i only ordered the cheap one because i could not find anything better You could go to the better quality Offenhauser cast aluminum cover, but it's very costly. If you're after a sheetmetal cover, the factory unit really is the best one. If you want a chrome valve cover, your best bet is to pick up a spare factory cover in good condition and send it out for chrome plating...which is itself very costly these days! If you're not into spending big bucks on engine sheetmetal, you may want to do a really nice job of cleaning and painting the cover; that always looks very good when done carefully. Quote: The car would catch an idle perfectly before i took the stuff off, but it did still have the hesitation when i would rev it. This suggests there may be a vacuum leak, an ignition timing issue, and/or a carburetor fault involved. When a lot of things are changed all at once, it can get difficult to track down a problem, but with persistence and careful diagnosis it can be done. You will probably want to check the distributor vacuum advance and hose to make sure they hold air (suction) and don't leak. This can be done quickly and easily by simply applying mouth suction to the top of the hose (pull it off the carb and suck on it). If you can suck air, the vacuum advance and/or the hose need replacement. Quote: i need you to be a bit more descriptive Remove the cap indicated by green arrows in the photo below, and connect that hose nipple to the charcoal canister's "BOWL" or "CARB" port. Remove the cap indicated by yellow arrows and connect it to the air cleaner's thermostat as previously described. Quote: The charcoal cannister is still hooked up, i hooked it up to the bottom of the carb, facing toward the passenger side, near the center of the carb There are two hoses running between the carb and the canister. The one you describe here is the purge line, and as long as it's hooked to the correct port on the carb (can't see quite clearly from your photo) it's in good shape. The third line to the canister comes from the fuel tank vent at the back of the car, and looks like it's probably hooked up correctly. You'll probably want to put a new canister filter in. It's a Standard Motor Products # CF1, Purolator # B40015 or a NAPA filter # 2998. You'll need to unbolt the canister from its bracket and turn it upside down to access and replace the filter. And yeah, the little white box with electrical terminals is indeed the choke controller, but you'll have fewer choke-related issues with the electric choke kit.