Quote:
Try applying some heat to the stud/bolt with a propane torch, that usually frees up loctite.
Is that wise on a carb 
Don't burn your car to the ground fella 
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| Air Cleaner Clearance issue https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24413 |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Fri Aug 10, 2007 5:27 pm ] |
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I like the double nut approach - tighten down two nuts on each other, then "loosen" the bottom nut. Make sure the throttle plates aren't hitting the spacer. |
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| Author: | ceej [ Fri Aug 10, 2007 6:24 pm ] |
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I Found a 90° hat for the carb while visiting with a fellow Fire Fighter that works at a wrecking yard. It's off what looked like it used to be a '96? 1/2 ton Dodge truck with a V8. If I can make the hat work, I'll go back and get the airbox. It looks like it's going to be a bit large for the engine compartment. We'll see. We also found a similar setup off a chevy V8 car, but it's mighty short. It'll need quite a spacer to clear the choke tower. He sent both home with me to experiment with. After the car cools off a bit, I'll go see what I can do about the carb stud. CJ |
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| Author: | rock [ Fri Aug 10, 2007 6:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | CJ, here is another way |
CJ, I can see how a steel stud is truly grown into an aluminum Holley base. if I was afraid of busting the carb base ( a feel gained from breaking things, just like the feel of when a nut is tight enough adn you better stop) I would cut if off with a Dremel or a grinder with a thin cut wheel, the either use a drill press or vise and drill that sucker out, and re thread.Many times if you run a pilot hole then come close to stud size by drilling with left hand bits the metal part will turn right out of the hole. Also, as slant six dan aks "why use a high riser", I have almost 4 inches under my throttle plates. I did to maximally remove my carb from heat. First down is a foot square 1/8 inch gasket made from head gasket stock, then a 3/4 inch 8 inch square aluminum adapter, then a i inch layer of alternating gasket material and aluminum plates, then a 2 inch riser. I used the store bought adapter that has the swirl grooves milled in it, and continued that groove down through my adapter stack. My carb runs cool enough to put your hand on, and I have no secondary problems or any of the usually reported Holley bogs. rock '64d100 |
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| Author: | 68BarracudaUK [ Sat Aug 11, 2007 11:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Try applying some heat to the stud/bolt with a propane torch, that usually frees up loctite.
Is that wise on a carb Don't burn your car to the ground fella
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| Author: | ceej [ Sat Aug 11, 2007 12:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
PB-Blaster is your friend!  It popped loose, and all was well. Now to make a decision on which hat to use. Mopar on the Left, GM on the Right. http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h93/H ... t/Air1.jpg http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h93/H ... t/Air2.jpg http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h93/H ... t/Air3.jpg There is cutting of plastic in my future no matter which hat I use. There is no way the Mopar air box is going inside the engine compartment. It's just too big. I'll need to find something considerably smaller that can mount behind the battery. Always something! CJ |
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| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Sat Aug 11, 2007 12:57 pm ] |
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Quote: Try applying some heat to the stud/bolt with a propane torch, that usually frees up loctite.
Near all that gas???!!!!I was going to run the air cleaner of a 360 van motor with a 2bbl to 4bbl adapter. I couldn't close the hood. I was going to use a hose to duct cool air. Instead I am thinking an offset mini sixpak scoop on a 'glass hood reversed! |
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