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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 7:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
Posts: 2011
Location: Argentina
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don't know if I'm going too far for the hobby, but 300 bucks for that fine plate seems like a very good price... I don't know, I think I rather spend that money in a honing plate rather than "roller rockers"... :wink:

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Juan Ignacio Caino

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 7:45 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
I build a lot of SL6 engines so for me, the plate was a good investment.
Of you are only building a "once in a life-time" engine, then it is not worth it.
I had one engine builder tell me that he uses short bolts and large, thick flat washers as a "do it yourself" torque plate... I'm not sure if doing that would be "better then nothing" or if it does more harm then good. :?
DD


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 Post subject: torque plate
PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2007 3:56 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 4:26 pm
Posts: 1237
Location: CBS Newfoundland Canada
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doug did you like the top off the block torque plate or is that route more costly than the 2in plate?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2007 8:45 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
The home made, cast iron torque plate I have works fine but they are a lot of work to make. You have to drill out all the threaded holes and doing that takes strong arms or a big, well mounted drill press.

Next, you need to bust-off as much of the lower block as possible, that takes more hole drilling, wizzer wheel and some sluge hammer swinging get's it done.

Now you need a large band saw. You need to set-up a guide "fence" and have some time and an extra person to help push / pull the work piece through the saw blade.

Next comes the clean-up work. I added a 3/4 inch section of steel plate to the back edge of the iron piece to give the plate full block coverage, once it is fliipped up-side-down & backwards. I also 'back-filled' my plate with some fiberglass, that will hold it together in cased it ever cracks.

If I did it again, I would start with a .060 oversize scrap block. (the one I used was .040 O/S)
I would also work harder to make a straight cut on the band saw, my cut was .150 off, front to back and that took a lot of extra work to square-up.
DD


Last edited by Doctor Dodge on Sun Oct 07, 2007 5:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2007 12:52 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
What about an old cylinder head for a torque plate (drill out combustion chambers)..........

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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