don't know if I'm going too far for the hobby, but 300 bucks for that fine plate seems like a very good price... I don't know, I think I rather spend that money in a honing plate rather than "roller rockers"...
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| I don't believe the ARP head stud sheet re torque, helllp! https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25195 |
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| Author: | argentina-slantsixer [ Sat Oct 06, 2007 7:36 pm ] |
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don't know if I'm going too far for the hobby, but 300 bucks for that fine plate seems like a very good price... I don't know, I think I rather spend that money in a honing plate rather than "roller rockers"...
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| Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Sat Oct 06, 2007 7:45 pm ] |
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I build a lot of SL6 engines so for me, the plate was a good investment. Of you are only building a "once in a life-time" engine, then it is not worth it. I had one engine builder tell me that he uses short bolts and large, thick flat washers as a "do it yourself" torque plate... I'm not sure if doing that would be "better then nothing" or if it does more harm then good.  DD |
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| Author: | terrylittlejohn [ Sun Oct 07, 2007 3:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | torque plate |
doug did you like the top off the block torque plate or is that route more costly than the 2in plate? |
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| Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Sun Oct 07, 2007 8:45 am ] |
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The home made, cast iron torque plate I have works fine but they are a lot of work to make. You have to drill out all the threaded holes and doing that takes strong arms or a big, well mounted drill press. Next, you need to bust-off as much of the lower block as possible, that takes more hole drilling, wizzer wheel and some sluge hammer swinging get's it done. Now you need a large band saw. You need to set-up a guide "fence" and have some time and an extra person to help push / pull the work piece through the saw blade. Next comes the clean-up work. I added a 3/4 inch section of steel plate to the back edge of the iron piece to give the plate full block coverage, once it is fliipped up-side-down & backwards. I also 'back-filled' my plate with some fiberglass, that will hold it together in cased it ever cracks. If I did it again, I would start with a .060 oversize scrap block. (the one I used was .040 O/S) I would also work harder to make a straight cut on the band saw, my cut was .150 off, front to back and that took a lot of extra work to square-up. DD |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sun Oct 07, 2007 12:52 pm ] |
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What about an old cylinder head for a torque plate (drill out combustion chambers).......... |
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