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| aspen stalling problem (part 2) https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25797 |
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| Author: | volaredon [ Mon Nov 12, 2007 11:32 am ] |
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Yeah, my 77 tank that I had, had the same dome on the 1 side to wrap up around/next to the spare tirewell. Maybe it was an early 77? I do believe, that if you could not take taht tank into a radiator repair shop and have it steamed and coated, that an even newer one would fit w/o a problem. See those shiny spots where the straps sat, and on top where it rested against the "rails" that are part of the bottom of the trunk floor, that the top of the tank rests against? Thats what supports the tank, not that bulge against the floor as some might think. It's times like this that really aggravate me about being busted up and having a cast on my foot, preventing me from being able to drive. If I could get out to my parent's cottage where all my parts are at, I have a rear frame section with the trunk floor still intact from the 77 Volare that I parted as well as at least 2, if not 3, good '78-80 Volare tanks that Ive saved. I could lay my newer tank up to that floorpan to verify that a newer tank would fit your car. The newer tank would be the way to go because that same tank was used all the way til '89 and is readily available aftermarket for about $100 or so. That tank that you have was a 1 or 2 year only deal, not worth it for the current manufacturers to reproduce. Again, look in the phone book and make some calls, to find someone that does gas tank repair to see that your current tank is in fact shot and beyond repair. I see NOS float assemblys pop up on Ebay all the time for these cars. Again Im not sure that the late sending unit (float) will fit the early tank, but somewhere around here I have contact info for a company that rebuilds sending units out of Ohio, let me know if you need that, and I'll dig it up. |
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| Author: | valiantwagonguy [ Mon Nov 12, 2007 3:15 pm ] |
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Thanks for your input man. Yeah they used this tank until april 77 and then switched. I actually answered my own questions with the pictures I took .The newer tank has the pick up on top and the older one on the front side and the spare tire well would probably interfere . the early tank wraps around that well some with that bulge on the fill side. I'm having it boiled out right now. The thing didn't leak and the rust inside isn't deep into the metal just surface rust everywhere .the gas came out brown and real murky .What I really need is a new sender but the old one will have to do for now.I'm gonna see how it looks after the boil out and try not to use that sealer crap 'cause that stuff breaks down as they change the gas formulas and turn it into something very different than what the sealer was designed to work with.Gas isn't even remotely like the gas we had 5 years ago let alone 30 years ago.Bought a carb kit to rebuild the carb,new shocks,belts , and am also gonna change the hoses. Also bought a new master cyl and am going to change out the fluid before I install that.Everything looks real good underneath the car.There isn't even rust on the brake lines. I'll probably change all the lines and calipers & wheel cylinders in the spring and do silicon fluid in it.I've been using that in all my stuff for 15 years now and my hydrolycs last forever .It's nice having a new old car.My 66 Valiant convertable is another one like this with 50,000 orig miles but it was a little old lady who owned it and it's full of little old lady dents . http://www.weblogimages.com/v.p?uid=yds ... sxP70gEIJ2 But they're small little things and I love it! Slants RULE!!! |
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| Author: | rock [ Tue Nov 13, 2007 6:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | Wagon guy, I have fixed several sending units |
Valiantguy, Once I saw what people wanted for new or used sending units I decided to try fixing mine and it was easy enough that I have done several. Basically you have a wire wound resistor and a float. Find out what your gas gage in car is supposed to read in terms of resistance, because Chrysler is a strange range. (You can see the range in a Jegs or Summit catalog for new parts). Depending on whether you are more interested in a true value for full or for empty, you can fix the resistor and its slider for one pretty easily, but it is hard to get it right for both. The wire is so fine steel wool can tear it, but just polish the wire coil and the slider foot and see if merely high resistance is the problem. If not, then use the ohmmeter to see where a break is in the winding, and use a tiny drop of solder to fix it. If the float has a hole, it usually is in the end cap, but that cap is like an onion skin, very thin. I polish it with steel wool then blow warm air from a vacuum cleaner over it a while to evaporate any gas in it. Then I use a propane flame to solder the hole shut. Works fine because it is floating but unless you want to do endless testing and take it in and out and rebend the arm, it will show lower at full than if perfect, because it sits lower. I set mine for the empty end since that is the worry point. rock '64d100 |
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| Author: | valiantwagonguy [ Tue Nov 13, 2007 2:00 pm ] |
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Oh it just gets better and better all the time! I took the tank in to be boiled out and now the guy is trying to tell me there is too much rust and he wants close to 400 dollars to boil and seal it.I told him to just do the boil for the 80 bucks.I can slosh that Bill Hirsh sealer around just as good as this guy can and save 300 bucks.Unbelievable! This job should be so easy and it's fighting me every step of the way.So then I look back at the messages and see one I missed with a link for www.car-part.com/ and I click on that.Bingo! there is a full page of used 76 aspen/volare tanks ranging from 35 bucks to call. I call one guy about 400 miles away and he says NO SHIPPING I call the closest one (200mi) same story 50 bucks I have to pick up.So now if my tank is shot I have to go on a 400 mile ride to get another one.There are no junk yards here with 30 year old cars.Space is way to expensive for that so they just crush em .Ah the joys of owning old cars! |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Nov 13, 2007 2:36 pm ] |
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Quote: try not to use that sealer crap 'cause that stuff breaks down as they change the gas formulas
This is not correct. It used to be, years ago when alcohol was still considered a contaminant in gasoline, but all the name-brand fuel tank sealing compounds currently available (Bill Hirsch, POR-15, Tank ReNu, and some others), when properly applied, are well and truly proof against all the types of additives that are in gasoline presently and for the foreseeable future.Quote: Gas isn't even remotely like the gas we had 5 years ago
Mmm...no, this is also incorrect. 2007 gasoline is very similar to 2002 gasoline. In many places it's identical. And even the most radical of the minor changes that've been made in the last five years do not involve any new chemistry. Major-name fuel tank sealers on the market in 2002 are A-OK with gasoline on the market in 2007.
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| Author: | valiantwagonguy [ Tue Nov 13, 2007 3:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
well we'll find out soon 'cause I'm gonna dump bill hirsh sealer in this tank as soon as I get it back from the boil out. What I do know is that a lot of motorcycle guys,me included , have had nothing but problems with the stuff. |
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| Author: | valiantwagonguy [ Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | It's ALIVE! |
After fooling around looking for gas tanks and all this other crap it's all back together and running like a new car!!! I had my tank boiled out and while the guy was taking his time doing it I found a nice rust free tank in a local junk yard for a hundred bucks.Now I have TWO .I pulled the carb off and the rust inside it was unbelievable. The accelerator pump was all rotted away as was all the other rubber in the thing.I got a kit and it's all set up correctly and now I have a 23,000 mile 31 year old car in mint condition!!!! I love it and am ready to get back to building my wagon .Thanks for all your input. |
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| Author: | Joshie225 [ Mon Nov 19, 2007 4:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
So did you put the rust free tank in the car? I hope so. Glad your car is running well for you! There is nothing quite like a carburetor full of trash to ruin driveability. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Nov 19, 2007 4:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Why the tank changed |
The tank was changed due to the entry into force of Federal (and Canadian) Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 301 ("Fuel System Integrity"). That was a safety standard initially proposed for entry into force in 1968, but Ford fought a pitched, high-dollar lobbying battle against it. Their cars were overrepresented in vehicle fire stats, and they didn't want to spend the $6 to $10 per car to engineer and build them correctly (i.e., safely). Viz the Pinto. (their cars are still overrepresented in vehicle fire stats...) |
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| Author: | volaredon [ Mon Nov 19, 2007 6:27 pm ] |
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Hey wagonguy, glad you got it going.... have to 2nd the question about using the rustfree one, put the tank that you had redone into the rafters (make sure that it is BONE dry 1st) and save it as a spare. I'm surprisedthat you FOUND a early F body tank in the yard let alone rust free. There was a 76 or 77 gas tank on Ebay for what seemed like forever, a little over a year ago, one of the pictures that the guy showed was a bill for the rebuilding of the tank, he wanted somewhere around $250-275 for it and kept relisting it......... don't know if he finally sold it or gave up trying, Your experience sounds like the one I had about 5 years ago, only difference was that I was working with a in cab, behind the seat tank in my '78 D 300 dually. While my orig. tank was in being redone, I found one in the yard. I was originally just gonna take the float unit but on the way to the counter a guy stopped me and asked why I didnt take the whole tank and all. I hadn't brought the tools out that day to pull the tank, so this guy loaned them to me and said that I was nuts just taking the sending unit which was like $14 when the whole tank, sending unit included, was like $19. (a U pull type lot where they didnt care what kind of vehicle the part was from) I'm glad he said something. What really surprised me, was that before that day, I'd never met the guy, and he was willing to point out the slight difference in cost, as well as loan a guy he'd never met, the tools to finish a job! You don't see people like that very often these days. |
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| Author: | valiantwagonguy [ Tue Nov 20, 2007 4:51 am ] |
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People are really good sometimes and you met one. I got real lucky with finding the rust free tank too.I did use it in the car .The guy doing the boil out wanted 79 dollars to boil the tank but 375 or more to do the whole seal thing.For 179 I got a boiled out tank and a rust free tank. For another 35 dollars I had the Bill Hirsh tank sealer delivered to my door so I can seal the boiled out tank myself. The rust free tank also had a good sender so now I have a gas gauge .All this for roughly half the price of the complete fix at the radiator shop which didn't even give me a good sender.I did well! |
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