Slant Six Forum :: Fuel Line Mod discussion

What if I take a steel line up to the altenator/ fuel filter location - thermotec has got a nice sleeve one can fit over it, and run the flexible line from there - with a thermotec cover.

I have installed a aluminium heat shield under my phenolic resin isolator - and that made a huge difference in carb temp as well - keeps radiated heat at bay, and deflects hat air from fan away from carb

Although the third hole does only have a very small orfic, it does bleed enough off to require a higher pressure pump.

Maybe the slant six does not have such a fuel demand that it needs a few extra psi to keep up with this system on.

If the slant does not have a 7 1/2 psi pump, using the BB pump (right year model) with the arm change would be cheap way of getting into one.

Author:	dank10fenny [ Sun Feb 24, 2008 2:50 pm ]
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i just did this mod, it helped a lil, but when i went to build my carb... ... i removed the fuel line when the motor was still warm and it was boiling like crazy, i know pressure raises boiling point. wut else can you do to stop this?

Author:	dank10fenny [ Mon Feb 25, 2008 3:47 pm ]
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Oh yes. it's boiling, I got the ghetto clear filter, and yes, I got the huge thick one.

Author:	65Dodge100 [ Mon Feb 25, 2008 9:46 pm ]
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I can show you what I'd do. If you're mechanically inclined, maybe you can figure out a good way to make a pin hole. Keep in mind that I haven't really tested it yet except to start the engine a few times. I don't know of any problems there could be that aren't mentioned in this thread: http://tinyurl.com/2rq2xe Danny

Author:	dank10fenny [ Tue Feb 26, 2008 12:34 pm ]
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thats a pretty good idea, the constant flow of new gas while running could keep fuel temps down too, much like a fuel rail w/ return.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:33 pm ]
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Fuel pressure spec for the slant-6 pump was 3Â½-5 psi or 4-5Â½ psi (depending on what year FSM you check) from start in '60 to finish in '87. The 3-nipple filter doesn't bleed off anywhere near enough pressure to require a higher-volume or higher-pressure pump. The 3-nipple filter has a ¼" hose nipple for the vapour return, but the orifice at its inner end is just 0.060".

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Author:	65Dodge100 [ Tue Feb 26, 2008 2:59 pm ]
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Author:	68barracuda [ Sat Mar 01, 2008 9:30 pm ]
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hi Dan What if I take a steel line up to the altenator/ fuel filter location - thermotec has got a nice sleeve one can fit over it, and run the flexible line from there - with a thermotec cover. I have installed a aluminium heat shield under my phenolic resin isolator - and that made a huge difference in carb temp as well - keeps radiated heat at bay, and deflects hat air from fan away from carb

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sun Mar 02, 2008 5:58 am ]
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Quote: What if I take a steel line up to the altenator/ fuel filter location - thermotec has got a nice sleeve one can fit over it, and run the flexible line from there - with a thermotec cover. That woks, too. Quote: I have installed a aluminium heat shield under my phenolic resin isolator - and that made a huge difference in carb temp as well - keeps radiated heat at bay, and deflects hat air from fan away from carb Yep, that's another good mod.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sun Mar 02, 2008 6:06 am ]
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Quote: Although the third hole does only have a very small orfic, it does bleed enough off to require a higher pressure pump. I disagree with you on that one. The FSMs for years/models equipped with the 3-nipple filter specify the same fuel pressure measurement technique (deadhead off the pump) as the FSMs for years/models with the 2-nipple filter. Keep in mind also the "Flood Check" kit (2830 292, a pair of bleed fittings for installing in the inlet and outlet lines of the fuel pump) offered as a TSB part by the factory to address fuel line boiling in late-'60s Dodge trucks. It's discussed elsewhere in this thread. It did the same thing as the 3-nipple filter, and it was to be installed on the regular ordinary slant-6 fuel pump. I've used a couple of these kits, and have never, ever seen a problem with insufficient fuel pressure. Quote: Maybe the slant six does not have such a fuel demand that it needs a few extra psi to keep up with this system on. No engine would need extra pressure to keep up with this system, which â€” remember â€” was designed primarily to bleed vapour out of the fuel filter and back to the tank. You generally don't have a stream of liquid fuel returning to the tank via the 3rd filter nipple. But if there were liquid fuel being bled off by the 3rd nipple in sufficient quantity to make a problem for the engine, then the fuel pump would have been modified to supply extra volume at the same pressure. Quote: If the slant does not have a 7 1/2 psi pump, using the BB pump (right year model) with the arm change would be cheap way of getting into one. That's true, the big block pump with the arm retrofitted can be used on the slant-6. It's been done. But very few slant-6 engines need higher fuel pressure or volume than is supplied by the stock pump.

Author:	Joshie225 [ Sun Mar 02, 2008 8:31 pm ]
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Actually, the glass filters I've seen recently in local parts stores are not of heavy glass like the old sediment bowls. They crack and break easily and are a serious fire hazard. I know someone that cracked one from it vibrating on his 383's valve cover. Fuels oxygenated with ethanol have a higher Reid vapor pressure than without the alcohol so percolation is a greater problem than in years past. If you're not having problems that's fine. I don't have trouble with percolation in my '67 Valiant so I left the metal fuel line in place. I use a metal fuel filter as it's the safest.

Author:	Rug_Trucker [ Thu Mar 19, 2009 5:19 pm ]
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The Fart Dart needs this mod bad! I was at the store today and the guy at O'Reilly's didn't know what I was asking for on FI fuel line....... I had to come home and re read this thread. Anyone have a pic or part number of the fuel injection clamps? I know these guys won't know what they are!

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Thu Mar 19, 2009 7:18 pm ]
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Fer serious? Geeze, that guy at O'Reilly's needs whupped with a clue-by-four; fuel injection's been on American roads needing purpose-specific hosepipe since the late 1960s, and it's been in the huge majority of vehicles on the road for at least 15 years. Clamps discussed and pictured here.

Author:	slantvaliant [ Thu Mar 19, 2009 8:19 pm ]
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I'm using the FI clamps and hose, but it is a (very) minor irritant to me that it messes up my attempt at simplification/standardization for underhood tools. Sockets or nutdrivers work better for me on clamps than flat or even phillips bits. For years, all the hoses on my car - fuel and coolant - used clamps with 1/4" or 5/16" hex heads. That's one or the other of tube of my favorite 6-way screwdriver. Now, there's a slotted metric hex head in the mix. That means use the flat blade, or dig out the metric socket. Not that I need to mess with the clamps often, you understand, but ... Does anyone make FI clamps with fractional hexes?

Author:	Rug_Trucker [ Fri Mar 20, 2009 7:58 am ]
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If I would have known the numbers for the line I would have told him so he could cut the right stuff. I should just buy big rolls of it, and vacuum hose for all the projects present and future.

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Author:	Wesola78 [ Fri Mar 20, 2009 3:57 pm ]
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I've been reading this thread, and wondering if a "cool can" might also help keep the fuel cooler. What do ya'll think?