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backfiring through intake
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28491		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  Doc [ Wed Apr 23, 2008 9:05 am ]
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I wonder if an intake valve got bent when the T. chain "skipped".

You really need to check the valve lash, that will tell you alot about what is happening.
A bent valve is shorter and will have a small amount of extra lash. You will also find any valve that is not working well by how it sounds when you insert a thickness gauge into the lash while the engine is running, it will not "drop-out" and miss beats like the other valves.

Have you checked the valve lash and done the lash adjustment with the engine hot and running?
DD
Author:  LUCKY13 [ Wed Apr 23, 2008 11:42 pm ]
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The engine will still not start, correct? If your in time, and this thing is getting fuel then it should start. A compression check would awnser some question real quick about timing chain, valves and rockers.



Even if you are getting spark on the plug with it out in open air that does not mean it will fire when in the engine. A gas fouled plug will act just like that even, spark in open air but when put under pressure not be able to.


Also I dont know if you checked each one but problems with the dizzy can have some firing and others not. I have seen bearings warn out and the dizzy would only fire ever other cylinder. DO you have a dwell meter to see what the dwell is?


These engine are pretty simple, gas, fire and compression and it shoudl run even if not good. It seems your over looking something, or taking it as being good because of test & checks done earlier and something has changed.


Have you tried pouring some fuel down the throat of the carb to see if it might fire. Be very carefull if doing this though and pour the fuel and crank after its poured, dont crank while pouring and dont be looking over top of it when cranking in case it backfires.


Sometimes it can be a simple thing and your expecting it to be more. Where do you live? Maybe someone on the forum is close to you and can help.



Jess
Author:  kit [ Fri Apr 25, 2008 11:15 am ]
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I just got done checking compression on each cylander and noticed tones of fuel leaking out of the plug hole, I cranked while there was no plug in the hole or the compression tester in the hole and some were spitting fuel out the hole. I left the plugs out and let the cylanders dry out and Im thinking about getting new plugs. Maybe its just been totaly over fueling.
Author:  Joshie225 [ Fri Apr 25, 2008 12:11 pm ]
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Wow! Sounds like the float sank or there is junk between the needle and seat.
Author:  kit [ Fri Apr 25, 2008 9:46 pm ]
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its a brand new carb I just installed, If I get some more time between my 3 jobs I hope to figure this thing out.
Author:  kit [ Fri Apr 25, 2008 9:51 pm ]
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any input anyone can give me on the 1 barrel carbs would be a huge help, as Im used to working on old detroit diesels, I have never been to good with carbs.
Author:  dank10fenny [ Fri Apr 25, 2008 11:22 pm ]
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with float installed and the cover open flip carb over to see when it closes the needle. typical adjustment is having the float fairly level when adjusted correctly. i new/rebuilt carb doesnt mean it was rebuilt well
Author:  kit [ Sat Apr 26, 2008 12:39 pm ]
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I pulled the carb and took the top cover off flipped the carb up side down and 2 little balls rolled out, one is a little bigger then the other. I did not see where they came from, can anyone tell me?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat Apr 26, 2008 1:07 pm ]
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Where did you get this "brand new" carb? Is it actually new, or is it a rebuilt/remanufactured unit?
Author:  dank10fenny [ Sat Apr 26, 2008 1:12 pm ]
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check balls are usually for the accel pump circuit. i dont member where on the 1920's but usually at bottom of plunger area and atop of the accel pump spray cluster
Author:  kit [ Sat Apr 26, 2008 1:41 pm ]
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I ordered the carb from guarantee carb on line and Im sure its brand new. But the floats seem to be ok, I when I flipped it over so the floats are up I cant blow air through the fuel inlet so I guess its ok. What else can I check on this carb? I still need to know where the check valves go.
Author:  kit [ Mon May 19, 2008 6:59 pm ]
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Im still struggling with this thing when I have time, and have gotten no where with it. I sent the carb back and just got a brand new one put it on and still nothing. I had another friend look at it and when we checked the spark he thought it did not look bright enough. has any one ever had too week of a spark to fire up? if so what could it be?
Author:  kit [ Sun Jun 08, 2008 8:23 pm ]
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new distributer worked, It runs good but still crackling through the carb, and at start up it runs pretty rich, it smokes and stinks like fuel. now I have replaced the carb with a reman, but I sent it back once and they said it was fine, distributer is new, and I cant find any vacuum leaks. The timing flashes at 10 on the tab with the vacuum off the dis. and plugged. Is there any thing else I should be checking?
Author:  6shotvanner [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 10:46 am ]
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Kit,you've been fighting this puppy for quite awhile,it's got to be frustrating.Now that it will run warm it up and do another valve adjust while it's running.It's really not that messy and you can almost sit down while doing it in a van :wink: I'm thinking the over rich at startup is a choke issue so do yourself a favor and get the elec.choke setup.Or at least do some tweaking on the divorced choke,make sure its working and coming off when warm.Worst part about doing this stuff over the internet is,I don't know,maybe like phone sex?We can do the ideas but you got to do the "work" :lol: Sorry just trying to lighten your load,errr ah,cheer you up alittle :) Keep at it you'll "Git r Done"
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