Just to update our information pool,

Mopar stopped using the 15L governors in the 1975 model year (those are specific to early EGR slants from 1973-1975)... starting in 1976+ the governors went to 11R and 9R, all the super six and most of the federal/Feather Duster models got the 9R governors as well as the 'upjetted' Holley 1945/bigger EGR and in 1977+ the Super six...

Maybe another thing we should ask is... are you using EI or points/point with Petronix...!??!?!

You should not have ping on pump gas, as I run the same compression, more carb, and more advance with a heavier car than you do and only get ping when I 'whomp' on the accelerator with 500 extra lbs in the car...



-D.idiot

I am using a stock mopar EI, I think it is a NAPA replacement box, it is the 4 wire version. I am running a stock coil.

The distributor I an using came out of my 77 Volare that was a super six car. I got the car used so I don't know if it was the factory dist or a reman. I saw no stickers or markings to suggest it was a reman, but who knows. I am assuming that since you keep talking about a "9R" governor, that there is no such thing as a "9L" governor. The 9 was clearly visible, the letter looked like an L, but looked only 1/2 or 3/4 stamped, so it could be an R. Either way the slots look shorter then my 11R points governors.

A few other facts about this car, it has an electric fan, and no power steering.

TopHat

Don't see them as often, but there are 'L' governors... most people get the 9R so either way... it's still a '9'...

Looks like we have a 'conglomeration'...

9L =18 degrees of advance by 1800 (not so good...)
6.5x =13 degrees (tops... need more here...the stock super six distributor would have an 11x pod for 22 degrees of advance...)

I have some 'spare' springs knocking around, that should help slow down the advance a bit and keep things 'steady'...PM me your address and I can drop a 'set' in the mail for you, if needed...

In the 'perfect' world, if we get things swapped out... you should be able to roll the engine back to 10-12 BTDC for initial, swap the springs to get the governor to limit out about 3000 rpm (passing rpm, but not all advanced during regular cruise rpm)... then let the vacc. pod be 'in' during cruise, and leave as you accelerate (so 'leave' around 13" or so)...


Two last questions:

Is your 9.2:1 compression 'measured' when you touched up your engine, or is it the 'knock a .100 off and call it good' method?
And the ZFRN plugs, during 'ping' shut off the engine, pull over and pull a couple of plugs... are they clean or do they have color on them?

-D.Idiot

What is the difference between a 'L' and a 'R' governor?

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

For the slant six, there is none, the slot is straight/universal... on small and big block governors some have slots that are slanted one way or the other depending on the rotation of the rotor thus the R or L (some of the 1975-1978-ish 400-4v distributors have a slots that's at a 30-40 degree angle)...

-D.Idiot

My 9.2:1 compression ratio was measured. I did have the head cut 0.100, but I measured it before and after.

I am not running the ZFRN plugs right now, I don't really remember what I put in it. On the way home from work tomorrow, I will stop and pull a few plugs and have a look.

Thanks on the offer of the springs, I have several that I will try first. I have many points distributors I have taken apart so I have a good selection of springs to try. Is the 9 governor what I should be using, or should I be looking for an 11?

Thanks for all your help so far DI.

TopHat

I run the 9R in both my cars since it allows me to run a bit more initial (slants like that a bit...), they are set up as the 'stock super six distributor' but with a slightly faster curve (not as aggressive coming in, but it ends closer to the useable rpm range in the torque band...)

Keep me posted,

-D.Idiot

If you can get 18 degrees out of it, you should be in good shape. I run a 15R and I use one medium light and one very stiff, very long looped to limit to 32 degrees at 2500 rpm. At 3000 rpm I get a few more degrees but it stops from 3000 on up. You can adjust/rotate the spring pins to get a little more throw. I tightened up the spring on the light side by rotating the pin so it stretches the spring out so it is not floppy. Several distributors I have taken apart have very loose primary springs. This condition will cause you to loose some of your advance range. In other words the weights will be partially advanced at idle which forces you to cut your initial timing back and reduces the amount of snap the SL6 has in it. It feels like mush when you accelerate. Tighten up the primary so it is not partially extended and you get a nice launch and more punch! That is why my 2.76 Posi breaks loose at a stop light if I get on it. You get a instant hit of torque right off idle. If your cam is advanced 4 to 6 degrees it also gives you a healthy dose of torque. Doctor Dodge suggested I set mine at an extra 4 degrees which makes it alot f fun to drive.

Hope that helps.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Ted,

I have never a pin that rotates, are you using a "performacne" mopar distributor? All the dizzies I have ever opened and recurved have a pressed in pin that the weight swings on. Where springs attach there is only a tab and it isn't movable either. I have seen you talk about an adjustable one before but now wonder what it is?

rock
'64d100

Rock,

It is a stock 74 distributor and the pin is designed to rotate. It is on an eccentric so you can shorten or lengthen the throw. Look at the bottom of the pin and you can use a box end wrench to turn it. All of the older distributors are built this way. I have seen some newer ones like you describe that were used in the 80's. I am not sure of the cut over year, but someone could tell us. Doc is the one that shared how to fine tune the spring pins with me.

The counter weight pins are stationary.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Well I didn't get to do a plug check today on the way home. I had to work late to finish the a possessed Eagle Vision, and it was dark when I left work. I didn't think doing a plug check in the dark on the side of 485 was a good idea.

I do have a vacuum can on order, it should be in Tuesday. Hopefully I will be off on Thursday, and I can yank the dist then. I will get the plug check before then.

TopHat

I got the plug today, well 5 out of 6. They look lean to me.

1.


2.


3.


4.


6.


I guess I need to fatten up the fuel a bit. From what I understand, I need to cruise the J-Y for some BBD jets, hopefully Thursday.

This last dist combo I put in it is a shorter heavy spring, and lighter weights. The pins are set for max spring tension. The weights are 54.7 and 55 grams. I think the lighter weights are causing some "flutter" in the timing, as the chain and gears have about 1100~1200 miles on them.

I looked during the plug check and I have Denso KJ20CR-L11 plugs in it now. What would a good plug be to run in this combo. DI I know you said you thought that the ZFR5N's would be a bit hot. What do you suggest?

Ted, is your 2.76 car an auto or a stick?

TopHat

Yeah looks a bit lean... you can shift the metering rods a bit and see if that helps (next you'll be needing the rods and jets out of a 318 carb... which may be a bit fat for the six)...

You might also try a set of stock plugs to see if color returns to them

NGK GR-4 (stock)or GR-5's (cooler)

That's one thing to think about in the whole 'economy vs. fuel' formula... if the mix is very lean it will ping... if you a fairly rich it will supress spark knock by pulling the extra heat out of the chambers with the extra unspent fuel...(as long as you aren't 'flooding it')


Almost there buddy!


-D.Idiot

It's a 904 automatic.

Looks like you need stiffer step up springs to keep the rods up for a little richer mix.

Or switch to the NGK plugs so we can tell what is going on. I am not familiar with the Denso plugs. I am running the GR-4 and they run a light cinnamon color with a #58 jet.

On the weights, I am running the stock heavy ones with a 15R governor. Your mechanical advance slots should be longer and with stock heavy weights it won't flutter/bounce. Those stiff springs you got will limit it to about 15 degrees mechanical at 2000 rpm set up like that with the spring posts rotated out.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG