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Differeces between hydraulic motors and non-hydraulic
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32808		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  Reed [ Wed Dec 17, 2008 5:16 pm ]
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Cool. I just want to make sure I can use my big valve 198 head on a later hydraulic 225.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Thu Dec 18, 2008 1:02 pm ]
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Eric,

Do you have a posi in your car? If so, it will hook up very well in this ice. I pass many cars on the back roads in the morning on the way up to Everett from Black Diamond. I just bought some BF Goodrich TA Radials and had them sipped before the snow hit and it pulls nice and straight and tracks like a cat. Wish I had made the switch long ago. The guys at Pacific Raceway MOPAR Show twisted my arm. Apparently they hook up very well for racing.

On your quiet hydraulic lifter motor comment, I found that when SL6 Dan suggested that I switch to 0-30W Mobil 1 the lifter noise nearly disappeared. My fuel pump is noisier than the lifters. It is much, much quieter even with the tall chrome valve cover (echo chamber). :D
Author:  Eric W [ Thu Dec 18, 2008 1:11 pm ]
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No, no sure grip Ted. Its an 8.75 with 2.94 gears. I run Toyo Spectra's, a touring all season radial. They do well in snow and ice...only had the rear come around a bit in the last couple of days, nothing a little correction and letting off the gas didn't fix. I've thought about going with a synthetic oil..maybe next change.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Thu Dec 18, 2008 1:32 pm ]
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Now we can call you Mr. Peanut plug! :D I love the NGK UR4 plugs gaped at .045. They are incredible! If your not running a set, give them a try. I have a 78 head on my 74 block.
Author:  Eric W [ Thu Dec 18, 2008 1:41 pm ]
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Yeah, I'll get some NGK's later. When I got this engine, it looks like a full tune up was done on it...new cap and rotor, spark plugs, air filter, etc. The plugs are Autolites, but they are made in the USA so at least they are the good ones (last Autolites I bought for my other peanut plug head where made in China, and literaly fell apart).

Ya know, I kinda like the idea of never having to adjust valve lash again. Must be getting lazy... :shock:
Author:  OleNatesOlds [ Thu Jan 06, 2011 10:05 am ]
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Sorry to bring this up again, but I'm wondering about mixing non-hydraulic components with hydraulic ones. What I have is a stock '69 225 Dart custom with 69k miles and an A904 and I suppose 2.76 gear. I want to make the GM batch fire efi conversion with OD manual trans. I have the efi and trans stuff already to make the switch. I plan to use the knock sensor and need to use hydraulic lifters for that, so I plan to upgrade the cam and use hydraulics. I went ahead and got a complete '80 (or '81?) truck head that I plan to port/mill for 9.5 or 10:1 compression. Now I am reading this topic.
:?

My question is have I gone too far? Will mixing these not work? After reading the improvements to the slant over the years, I wonder if a full switch to a later motor would be better. I just would prefer to use my low-mileage bottom end. Any advice is appreciated!

Nate
Author:  4speed [ Thu Jan 06, 2011 10:53 am ]
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Quote:
Sorry to bring this up again, but I'm wondering about mixing non-hydraulic components with hydraulic ones. What I have is a stock '69 225 Dart custom with 69k miles and an A904 and I suppose 2.76 gear. I want to make the GM batch fire efi conversion with OD manual trans.
My question is have I gone too far? Will mixing these not work? After reading the improvements to the slant over the years, I wonder if a full switch to a later motor would be better. I just would prefer to use my low-mileage bottom end. Any advice is appreciated!

Nate
Well a 2.76 with a OD will end up 1.9 to 1 which is way to low unless you want to cruse at 100 MPH on flat roads. A 3.23 will be 2.26 in OD which is doable.
Author:  Joshie225 [ Thu Jan 06, 2011 10:54 am ]
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All you need to run hydraulic lifters is the valve gear (rockers, shaft and pushrods) along with a cam having a grooved rear journal. You can use a hyd cam core or have the rear journal of a mechanical cam grooved and the cam ground to use hyd lifters. The valve stem heights should be kept as equal as possible so all the pushrods can be the same length. Serdi valve grinding equipment helps valve seat depth consistency a lot. If you're cutting the block or head for compression you'll probably need custom pushrods. Smith Bros is a great place for pushrods.
Author:  OleNatesOlds [ Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:39 am ]
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True about the rear end ratio. Forgot to mention I have been looking for solid axle Explorer rear end setup to take advantage of the disc brakes, posi, and 3.55 gearing...
Author:  4speed [ Thu Jan 06, 2011 12:03 pm ]
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That will bring it down to 2.48-good choice.
Author:  Eric W [ Thu Jan 06, 2011 5:31 pm ]
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Wow, this thread is a blast from the past, I sold the Satellite last July! :shock:
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